The math is not hard. You can find tire size calculators on the internet, but I don't trust them to use the right math.
The change in percentage of the tire revolutions per mile is equal to the percentage of change in rear axle ratio.
Stock tires on your Y2K 4x4 PSD were LT265/75R16 with 655 revs/mile. 35s have about 600 revs/mile. Revs/mile is included in the specs for most new tires.
655 minus 600 = 55, divided by 655 = 8.4%
3.73 + 8.4% = 4.04
So the pure math answer is you need 4.04 axle ratio to have the same "feel" with the 35s as you had with the stock tires and 3.73 axle. However, the 35s are taller and wider than the stock tires, so they have more aerodynamic and mechanical drag. So you need a bit more than 4.04 to make up for that difference in drag. Therefore, 4.10 ratio should be almost perfect to get you back to the stock performance.
4.10 is a 10 percent change in ratio. 4.30 is a 15 percent change in ratio. Not a huge amount of difference. If you want more grunt off the line, or want to tug a heavier trailer up a steeper grade than the stock setup could comfortably achieve, then the 4.30 is for you.
Those same percentages will apply to engine RPM at the same corrected
speed, or actual speed per GPS. So with 4.30 ratio, your speed will be 15 percent slower because of the axle ratio, but 8.4 percent faster because of the taller tires. The difference of 6.6 percent you can count on. At 70 MPH true speed with the stock tires and ratio, you will actually be going only 65.4 MPH with the 35s and 4.30. Converted to engine RPM, 70 MPH true speed with the stock setup is 2,000 RPM. 70 MPH with 35s and 4.30 ratio will be 2,132 RPM.
Not bad. If you have your speedo corrected to 600 tire revs/mile, I suspect you'll really like the new setup with 35s and 4.30 ratio.
Except for the hit in MPG. The increased drag of those taller, wider tires combined with the lift is going to clobber your MPG.
But no, I don't have any seat experience with that setup.