I will be towing trailers for an RV maker. I need to add a 5th wheel hitch which can be adapted for goosemeck towing also. It needs to be rated at least 15K.
Any suggestions, guidance or advice?
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BudMan5
"A couple of quarter sticks of dynamite can turn an otherwise dull day fun!"
2006 F350 Crew Cab 2WD DRW 98 gal Transfer Flow aux tank, Crew Cab Sleeper, Ride Rite Air Bags with Dual Air Command II compressor and tank, B&W Companion 5'er and Gooseneck, Garmin GPS, XM Radio
B&W Turnover ball. Gooseneck hitch when you need it, flat bed when you dont. They have a drop- in attachment to tow a fifth wheel, and it's rated for 30K.
'94 2WD F-250 PSD 5 speed. 302,000 miles, DIY open intake, 5" single stack, Banks pyro and boost gauge, Grover air horns, DynaMat. Still on the original CPS!
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
You can also get a gooseneck plate that will pin into the fifth wheel rails of all the major fifth wheel brands. This would be a less expensive option compared to the B & W.
People have said it. If you also have a need for a totally useful pickup bed when not towing then the B&W is a good option. I think other manufacturers are offering a similar type of clear bed hitch, but it might be gooseneck only. I think the B&W is pretty pricey but I like it. If you are going to be towing alot for income than I would look into getting an air ride hitch or something that will treat the truck and trailer nicely and smoothen out the ride as much as possible.
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1996 F250 4x4 ext. cab, long bed 5 spd. 3.55ls, Tymar Intake, Tymar 4" downpipe and 4" exhaust. AIC, B&W turnoverball, EBPV brake, tranny temp gauge, boost gauge, and egt gauge. 235k miles and thousands of $$$$ in maintenance and repairs.
if you are going with one of the transport companies, there are a couple of places here in elkhart, in that outfit trucks. But i must tell you, I own my own transport company, make sure you know what you are being paid, what fees these places add(or subtract i should say) from your mileage. feel free to pm me if you have any questions, i can at least tell you what i have heard about soe companies.
I have the standard 5th wheel rails to tow a 5th wheel with the standard Reese 18k hitch. I bought "The Goose" made by Reese that fits right into those same rails with pins. I can tow both goosenecks and 5th wheels with this setup.
I have a 5th Wheel RV and I borrow the neighbor's 20' gooseneck horse trailer. Can tow both.
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Member since 11/27/1999 1996 F250/SC/4x4 BTS E4OD/Hayden 679 - 4.10/LS, BFG/ATs, Auto Meter, Tymar, Edge Programmer, DPP "exhaust products", 247K miles, B20 This winter:D66, DPP Reman Stage 2s, TW Chip
Assuming your tow vehicle is a long bed, then you have two major choices.
B&W Turnover Ball with companion 5er hitch. Cost for the parts about $935.
Reese/Drawtite 16k Select Series 5er hitch with bedrail kit and gooseneck adapter will cost about $758 for the parts. DO NOT buy the cheaper 15k Reese or Drawtite, because they are two-way tilt. The 16k is 4-way tilt, which you will be thankful for if you even once have to hook up a 5er on rough ground. The gooseneck adapter is rated about 25k, so you can tow more weight on a gooseneck than on a 5er.
The advantage of the B&W is when the hitch is removed, there's nothing left in the bed but a small hole.
When you remove the Reese/Drawtite 5er hitch or gooseneck adapter, the bedrails are still in the bed unless you take about a half hour to remove the bedrails. But folks make too big a deal about the bedrails left in the bed. Mine have been in there for over 8 years, with no problem unless I haul pea gravel or course sand without throwing a tarp over the bedrails. Even then it's not much of a problem, but requires me to remove the bedrails to get rid of all the extra gravel or sand that gets lost inside the bedrails. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif[/img]
So I guess it depends on how much the $177 difference in the cost of the parts means to you.
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My Sierra Blanca is a '99.5 PSD CrewCab hot-rod Towing Machine! BTS tranny; TurboRamAir intake and 4" stainless turbo-back exhaust; DP-Tuner tunes flashed into an Edge Evolution tuner; ISSPRO EV gauges and TTM; AIC; SP-Diesel exhaust brake and torque converter controller. I special-ordered it new and plan to drive it until it quits.
Took everyone's advice and decided to go with the B&W Companion and its being installed Thursday.
Many thanks for the input!
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BudMan5
"A couple of quarter sticks of dynamite can turn an otherwise dull day fun!"
2006 F350 Crew Cab 2WD DRW 98 gal Transfer Flow aux tank, Crew Cab Sleeper, Ride Rite Air Bags with Dual Air Command II compressor and tank, B&W Companion 5'er and Gooseneck, Garmin GPS, XM Radio
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