5th Wheel Hitch

[RootDoc]

Hello,
I have been pulling a 33' travel trailer for about 3 years now. I am in the process of trading it in for a 5th. wheel. Who makes the best 5th wheel hitch and why. The trailer will weigh about 13000 lbs loaded.
Thanks,
Rick

[97Strokerman]

Well, most would say it's a matter of preferencs, but I like my B&W. You have the option of a gooseneck, and when you remove the adaptor, it's flush with the floor of the bed. Also very durable, and reliable. I believe all the big names such as Reese, and Draw Tite and Putnam make quality products. You just have to figure out which one suits your needs, and how much you want to spend................Dave

[CascarFan]

I was considering a companion type hitch, but then I got to thinking, now I have to worry about 2 connections and since I don't really need a gooseneck hitch what's the sense?

One thing I would say is bigger is better.

I just broke a 15K Eaz-Lift hitch when I was down in Loisiana in Feb. The hitch has been in the truck since new and never gave me a problem. The welds let go on the square tubing that braces the yoke. What I figured happened was, I got cut off just north of Daytona and I hit my binders so hard I split a brake line. I think that might have weakened the welds on the brace, anyway by the time I got into New Orleans, after pulling out of a fairly rough parking lot in a truck stop, right away I noticed that my trailer was dog tracking about 2-3' to the left, got out, thinking I broke a shackle or something on a trailer axle, it was caused because the yoke holding the 5th wheel plate was leaning to the left, severely. It's a wonder I didn't drop the trailer into the back of the truck pulling out of the truck stop.

At any rate, if I were buying a new one, I'd be going with at least a 24K leaning more towards a 30K. And get one that will drop into common sized bed rails, just in case you need to replace it. My bed rails for example were spaced 1/2" wider than a Reese.

I couldn't find one to fit in Louisiana, but I was fortunate enough to get a exceptional welder to repair mine up and it got me home. I was looking at about $1400.00 to have a new one with new bed rails installed, but I got lucky and found another one Eaz-Lift (they were discontinued about 5 years ago), so I'm going to really brace and build the one I found up.

At any rate, I'd like to mention if it wasn't for Kenny over at Camping World in Hammond La., I don't know what I would have done. He and the folks at Camping World were nice enough to find me a campsite for the night, and Kenny came over with his truck and towed my trailer to Punkin Center Campground, so my wife and I had a place to stay while we figured out what to do with my hitch. Kenny wouldn't take anything for his troubles, all he asked was if I ever seen him broke down of the side of the road in Canada, to pull over and help him, or any other camper for that matter, that was in trouble. Kenny, the people over at Camping World and Punkin Campground restored my faith in humanity, I'll till you. I highly recommend them to anyone and if anyone's in their neck of the woods, and are talking to them, say hi to them, from Randy in Canada, would you please!

One thing for sure, I'll be doing from now on, is, everytime I stop for fuel or what have you while towing, I'll be checking my hitch over with a fine tooth comb, looking for metal fatique, cracked welds, etc., etc... That's why I'm saying, the bigger, the less likely that's going to happen, it's when you get into extreme circumstances like I had braking, that takes it's toll on equipment.

[wittmeba]

Most hitches are pretty much the same with a few exceptions. PullRite slider is certainly different. It is an autoslider and I believe still unique in the field.

Some have different latching mechanisms - many claim what they have is best. Gain an understanding of how each latches and thoroughly know how yours works - how to properly hitch - whatever you select.

Here is a page of links for almost every mfg out there.

http://members.cox.net/bruce.wittmei...elHitches.html

[wittmeba]

Assuming you have the tow package (wiring to rear bumper) there should be a connector behind the fuse panel and behind the vertical cross member on the right side of the opening. You almost need the cable to know what the connector will look like in order to find it...its not easy.

Once you locate that, the other end just connects to the brake controller of your choice.

[Coolinthem]

Get a hitch that pivots sideways and back and forth so when you are hooking up the truck and the trailer will not need to be level. If you want overkill for your trailer I would suggest 18000 to 20000 hitch rating. If you are old like me get a hitch that comes apart in pieces so when you want to take it out or put it in the bed it will be easier. I use a 20000 lb rated reese hitch with a 16000 lb 5th wheel with eccellent results. The only downside to most 5th wheel hitches are the rails don,t come out of the bed. good luck.

[RootDoc]

I see a lot of adds for Mor/ryde,TrailerSaver by Hensly, Super 5th by Pullrite, and 5th Airborne by fabex. Does anyone have any knowledge or experience with these? Are they worth the extra money?
Thanks,
Rick

[RonRosewall]

I have been using an RBW hitch for the past 8 years and have had no problems with it. I keep it covered with a Truxedo roll-up cover when not hitched up. So it doesn't see the weather as much as some and is easy to take apart and remove from truck with one person.I have been impressed with it and others have came up to me and asked how I was able to hook up so easily and quick.

[twobit]

I too have the RBW Li'l Rocker and would recommend it.

[sandjunkie]

I have the Pullrite Super 5th and the Super Rail system in mine. It is the best out there in my opinion for several reasons. No drilling to the frame. It uses stock holes and laminates the frame for strength. 4 holes in the bed is all you have when you take it out. The bed is completely flat and just as usable as stock when the hitch is out. Great latching mechanism that has been laser cut to virtually eliminate pin slop. The latching mechanism completely surrounds the pin so that there is no guessing if it is fully secure. 4 way pivoting head. You will pay more for it than other hitches but you get what you pay for.

[jcbenson]

I will second what Sandjunkie said. Pullright, Reese Signiture series, B&W, and a few others out there have better hitches than most.
I pull using a Reese 16K 4 way with the jaws that come together in the middle. I have a lot of Pin Slop in it. I am looking at a replacement also. I saw what can happen when the jaws come open. It wasn't good to the truck or trailer.
No matter what brand you get, look for one that the jaw(s) circles the pin. It will keep the Pin Slop from happening. It also is a safer hitch. It won't let go as easy as the other styles.
I am looking at the Reese Signature series with the pins that lock into the bed. I currently have rails in the bed and they can make hauling items a pain in the _ss. Its hard to keep the bed clean also.
The Pull Right is a good hitch but a costly one. At 1400.00 in Northern Calif. its mighty high. The Reese is a bit lower around 900.00 . The B&W is a goose neck hitch in the bed that comes out leaving the bed clear but you have to buy the fifth wheel hitch which is seperate( 500.00+) from the company for a total of about 1300.00 .
I am still looking for a deal on a good hitch. If anyone can recommend a good place for a deal let us know. Good Luck and good hauling. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

[sandjunkie]

[ QUOTE ]
I will second what Sandjunkie said. Pullright, Reese Signiture series, B&W, and a few others out there have better hitches than most.
I pull using a Reese 16K 4 way with the jaws that come together in the middle. I have a lot of Pin Slop in it. I am looking at a replacement also. I saw what can happen when the jaws come open. It wasn't good to the truck or trailer.
No matter what brand you get, look for one that the jaw(s) circles the pin. It will keep the Pin Slop from happening. It also is a safer hitch. It won't let go as easy as the other styles.
I am looking at the Reese Signature series with the pins that lock into the bed. I currently have rails in the bed and they can make hauling items a pain in the _ss. Its hard to keep the bed clean also.
The Pull Right is a good hitch but a costly one. At 1400.00 in Northern Calif. its mighty high. The Reese is a bit lower around 900.00 . The B&W is a goose neck hitch in the bed that comes out leaving the bed clear but you have to buy the fifth wheel hitch which is seperate( 500.00+) from the company for a total of about 1300.00 .
I am still looking for a deal on a good hitch. If anyone can recommend a good place for a deal let us know. Good Luck and good hauling. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

[/ QUOTE ]

JCBenson Check online prices. I got my pullrite with super rails for about $700 shipping included. It looks like the prices have gone up a bit since last summer and it would run about $900 now.

rv supply warehouse

[jcbenson]

To SandJunkie: Thanks for the tip. Great Prices. Locals are a rip off. Thanks again. JCB [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

[DA28]

i got the reese signature 18k slider.... pivots both ways and i love it
i did my own install to save a couple bucks
try www.hitchesonline.com i save frieght because i live about 8 miles from the place.... just my 2 cents worth

[TC88]

Well I'll be differant. I had (still have out back) a reese. I have switched to a Trailersaver by Hensley. Everything rides smoother, they are built with a Holland Binkley head , the best in the business IMOHO. The jaws are thicker, it works smoother, and when it is locked it is locked ( no levers or anything to flip to keep it locked). The down side is you are going to pay, $2200 last time I looked, but I would spend it again, but glad I don't have to. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Tom