We are considering upgrading our 30' Travel Trailer and going with a 5th wheel. With all the sizes and features out there, what do some of you recommend size wise with the F-250 setup in my signature?
Any brand that you all prefer over others?
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2006 F-250 Lariat PSD Fx4 Shortbed Extended Cab, 4" MBRP Cat Back (have the DP just not installed yet), Fumoto Valve, Viper 160XVL Remote start
Engine born on date- 5/13/05 (a Friday no less)
I can't help you with sizes for your F250, because each unit can be drastically different from the next, even in the same size. The key is to keep your weight within safe limits...I don't know what they are, but research that point. Salespeople will sell you anything, and tell you your F250 can pull a house.
Outside of that, make sure and do research on the primary area you plan to do your traveling (if you have one). When I lived in MN, a 32-38 foot 5er had no troubles getting into campgrounds. Now that I moved to NC, I have found many campgrounds cannot accomodate our length (and I don't think we're that long - see my sig below for details). So, we have to do some careful planning on where to stay. Oftentimes we use RV Parks, they are not what we prefer, but we fit in them. It is nice having the electricity, sewer, cable, etc, etc, etc, but it still doesn't make up for a nice large site with woods and a fire ring (in my opinion).
As to the brands, do your research again. Some brands are good some not so good. I love my Jayco - it has been a great unit, nothing major (or minor) has gone wrong, and for the couple very small items, getting warranty service was not a problem. That is probably because the outfit I purchased from really takes care of their customers. Do some shopping for both price and the dealership!
Good luck making your decision!!!!
MM
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2001 F-350 Tan Crew Cab XLT (build date of both truck and engine: 9/2000), SRW, LB, 3.73, 4x4, Auto, DP 4 position chip (stock, 40 tow, 80 econo, 120 *GO BABY GO*), AIS w/ fender mod, motoblue 4" turbo back, mini air regulator set to 23lbs to fool MAP, Bilsteins, Autometer Z-series, Heater Bypass, Topper, AstroStart Remote Starter
2004 Jayco 325bhs 5er - no mods....YET...can you mod a 5th wheel trailer????
2001 Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom. Cobra Power Pro 2 into 1 exhaust, SS Custom 420 Cams, Dyna3000 ignition, K&N pods, jetted, saddlebags, floorboards, sissybar, and a rear rack. Just give it a twist and hang on!
1968 Ford Mustang Coupe - 302 4bbl, c4 trans, 9" rear end, Shelby race suspension, custom dual exhaust, factory air (not hang on) and cruise! Almost one of a kind! Good looks
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mushing_madness</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I can't help you with sizes for your F250, because each unit can be drastically different from the next, even in the same size. The key is to keep your weight within safe limits...I don't know what they are, but research that point. Salespeople will sell you anything, and tell you your F250 can pull a house.
Outside of that, make sure and do research on the primary area you plan to do your traveling (if you have one). When I lived in MN, a 32-38 foot 5er had no troubles getting into campgrounds. Now that I moved to NC, I have found many campgrounds cannot accomodate our length (and I don't think we're that long - see my sig below for details). So, we have to do some careful planning on where to stay. Oftentimes we use RV Parks, they are not what we prefer, but we fit in them. It is nice having the electricity, sewer, cable, etc, etc, etc, but it still doesn't make up for a nice large site with woods and a fire ring (in my opinion).
As to the brands, do your research again. Some brands are good some not so good. I love my Jayco - it has been a great unit, nothing major (or minor) has gone wrong, and for the couple very small items, getting warranty service was not a problem. That is probably because the outfit I purchased from really takes care of their customers. Do some shopping for both price and the dealership!
Good luck making your decision!!!!
MM </div></div>
Thanks for your input. We have an idea on the one that we want but are still curious on how well it will pull. I don't think the engine would have a problem, but the suspension might be the issue.
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2006 F-250 Lariat PSD Fx4 Shortbed Extended Cab, 4" MBRP Cat Back (have the DP just not installed yet), Fumoto Valve, Viper 160XVL Remote start
Engine born on date- 5/13/05 (a Friday no less)
This is just my opinion... That is getting to be quite a bit of trailer for a single rear wheel truck. I know the ad states 35', however, I think you will find it is actually closer to 38'. The model numbers mean nothing these days. That would be a lot of trailer for a F350 dually.
I would suggest staying under 32'.
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You're going to have a little issue just because of the short box. Even with a slider hitch you won't be able to get the pin in front of the rear diff very much. This means most, if not all, of the pin weight will be on the rear. Being a 250 short box, I would say a 30'er of one of the light weight models/brands with one or two slide outs max, would be all you would want for that truck. Especially if it's full height(profile), and seems as most 30 or greater with slides are full height profile. If you plan on keeping the RV longer than the truck you could get a little "too big", and watch how much junk you load to keep the weight down, and get more truck next time. You'll need airbags for sure is my guess as well. And enough tire.
2006 F350 CC LWB Dually XLT Oxford white manual 4x4 6.0 PSD 6 speed. 4.10 LS front and rear, Built May05. 4" turbo back, 100gal aux fuel tank. A real pig from a stop, but give me 10' and she'll lite'em up.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: brnscofrnld</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> We have an idea on the one that we want but ... </div></div>
You'll be overloaded over the GVWR of the tow vehicle.
That trailer has a GVWR over 15,000 pounds, so the 5er will probably gross about 15k on the road. That means a hitch weight of about 18 percent, or 2,700 pounds.
Your '06 SuperCab Shorty 4x4 PSD has a GVWR of 9,800 pounds. Minus 2,700 pounds for hitch weight leaves you only 7,100 pounds for the wet and loaded weight of the tow vehicle, including full tank of fuel, driver, passenger, toolbox, bedliner, and 5er hitch. Any CAT scale will prove to you that your wet and loaded tow vehicle will weigh a lot more than 7,100 before you tie onto the 5er.
Your GCWR is 23,000 pounds, so subtract the 15k for the wet and loaded 5er and that leaves 8k for the wet and loaded tow vehicle. That's do-able.
So the numbers mean you have enough engine and drivetrain to tow a 15k trailer without becoming a rolling roadblock on the interstate, but your tow vehicle will be overloaded by a few hundred pounds over the GVWR of the tow vehicle.
What to do? Change your wants by a few thousand pounds. Look for a 5er that grosses about 12,000 pounds. For example, Keystone Sprinter 293FWSLS is 32 feet long, two slides, and with a GVWR of 12,225 pounds. Click here to see the floorplan and specs.
So at 18 percent hitch weight, that's 2,200 pounds. 9,800 GVWR of the pickup minus 2,200 pounds hitch weight leaves 7,600 pounds for the weight of the wet and loaded tow vehicle. That's probably do-able without much sacrifice of leaving tools and jacks at home.
With a shorty pickup, you can't safely tow with an ordinary 5er hitch without danger of cab-to-trailer contact. You need a slider, and preferrably an automatic slider. Here's the one I recommend: http://www.pullrite.com/superglide.htm
If you can afford a Montana 5er, then you can afford the good hitch to pull it with. So I don't wanna hear crying about how much the SuperGlide costs. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img] It's less expensive than trading for a longbed pickup. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif[/img]
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My Sierra Blanca is a '99.5 PSD CrewCab hot-rod Towing Machine! BTS tranny; TurboRamAir intake and 4" stainless turbo-back exhaust; DP-Tuner tunes flashed into an Edge Evolution tuner; ISSPRO EV gauges and TTM; AIC; SP-Diesel exhaust brake and torque converter controller. I special-ordered it new and plan to drive it until it quits.
You might also look at a Carriage Domani. They are light and hitch weight is only 1800 lbs dry. Nice rig - we seriously considered one. Smaller than the Keystone you are looking at, but a nice layout also - once you are in it, there is a fair amount of room.
Good luck.
Alem
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'08 F350 Lariat CC 4x4 SRW 6.4L Oxford White.
Traded:
'08 F250 Lariat CC 4x4 SRW 6.4L Oxford White.
Traded:
'03 F250 Lariat CC 4x4 SRW 6.0L Oxford White, XM Commander (Terk), Midland 75-830 CB, MileMarker 9000lb Electric Winch w/quick disconnect, Draw Tite Front Mount Hitch, Go Rhino StepGuard grill guard, American Racing Atlas wheels.
Thanks for all the input. We will be looking at all the possibilities out there.
The Carriage Domani ones looked REAL nice. Local dealer is a little south of here so we might go give them a look.
Since the off season is approaching, we are looking around for some good deals. We will see.
Smokey-
Thanks for the info. Since the cost of a quality hitch should not matter, we may look at that pullrite one that you linked to.
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2006 F-250 Lariat PSD Fx4 Shortbed Extended Cab, 4" MBRP Cat Back (have the DP just not installed yet), Fumoto Valve, Viper 160XVL Remote start
Engine born on date- 5/13/05 (a Friday no less)
I found the best usable room in a 5th is: Layout from the front:
Closet/bed/closet/walk thru bath/living room, rear kitchen. With this layout, some 32 footers are impressive for usable room.
A 32ft 5th should weight less thus may get slightly more fuel mileage. Basement storage is really nice to have.
For full timing, a super slide works well as it yields more floor room n the area that's most used, the kitchen and living room. The rear kitchen adds more counter space and usually with another gray tank added.
I can't see where a bedroom slide adds anything to the RV'ing experience and at a cost of increased PW.
This layout will pull slightly more stable as mfg's "usually" locate the axles back towards the kitchen to support that weight that gives a longer pin to axle distance that would be more stable. The draw back is pin weight "can" increase so be sure your choice matchs your available TV PW rating. On some of the new 5th's I noticed PW slightly decreased, depending on brand.
16" wheels at a minimum as then tires are easly found in the correct weight rating.
When we changed over to a 5th, we made a list of likes/dislikes of our TT and that made choosing a 5th alot easier. It's very easy to buy the frilly/gadgets stuff that don't make a hill of beans difference when using the RV.
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T_Bone
02 F350, 4X6, Crew, DRW, LWB, PSD, 6spd, 3:73, Island Blue, Stock, AEB2, Phoenix Az
Buy UNION work UNION. It pays off in the long run Define Union: A labor Union is nothing more than united workers with a common goal for better working conditions.
We all are in some sort of labor Union, some are just larger than others with better working conditions!
A 34 foot Classic Airstream weighs only 8247 dry,is more airo-dynamic,less top heavy,less climbing inside, and with a full equaliser setup,will work with your truck nicely.
(I can't see where a bedroom slide adds anything to the RV'ing experience and at a cost of increased PW)
What the bedroom slide offers is a double closet on the front giving a lot of extra storage space. Most of the national parks do not accomodate campers beyond 32 ft. Where and how you plan on using the camper should be part of the decision. I prefer only two slides. Gives the two of us enough room to be snow birds yet cuts down on weight and set up time. Also one less moving part to maintain. I like the Hitchhiker 11's.
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