In addition to the stock incandescent lights, I want to add 2 or 3 extra yellow LED lights to the sides and add another set of LED stop/turn lights over the fenders.
I just want to add more lights for better visibility.
Do I need to do anything extra, other than tapping into the existing wiring to add these extra LED's on the trailer?
Any other suggestions? I am also buying some good quality reflective tape.
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early 1999-6/98, crew cab, F250, short box, 7.3, 6 speed, 4WD, 3.73, bilsteins, AIS
In addition to the stock incandescent lights, I want to add 2 or 3 extra yellow LED lights to the sides and add another set of LED stop/turn lights over the fenders.
I just want to add more lights for better visibility.
Do I need to do anything extra, other than tapping into the existing wiring to add these extra LED's on the trailer?
Any other suggestions? I am also buying some good quality reflective tape.
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Adding lights are good but some forget that the amount of amps they pull first check how many amps the fuse is that powers the lights. and then add up the amount of amps the lights are. if they are with in the fuse you are ok. I would prefer to add a bosch relay and power the lights strait from a fuse and use the light to activate the relay.
Dont forget that your switch in the dash is only good for so many amps.
the led's don’t pull that much, replace the incandescent with led's and you should be fine. or you may not have to. led's as far as i know draw 1/10th what standard draws, twice as bright and longer life yada, yada...
that’s what i am doing any way...
**measure the amp with the current lights and then switch them all out and check again and then add as many led's as you’d like up to that amperage.**
Yeah. Make sure the lights aren't pulling more amps than your original wiring and fuses are rated for. Nice thing about LED's is they draw very little. I don't have a clue, but is there possibly an issue running LED's with reagular lights (incandescents?) on the same circuit/ fuse. Don't know, just thinking outloud.
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1996 F250 4x4 ext. cab, long bed 5 spd. 3.55ls, Tymar Intake, Tymar 4" downpipe and 4" exhaust. AIC, B&W turnoverball, EBPV brake, tranny temp gauge, boost gauge, and egt gauge. 235k miles and thousands of $$$$ in maintenance and repairs.
I have American Super Lights clear LED's on everything I own., I LOVE them, never had problems. I bought em from www.buytruckstuff.com [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]
Assuming you are pulling this trailer with your 99 in your sig, your trailer marker lamps are triggered by a relay under the hood, and fused at 20A. You do not have to worry about any current draw through the switch.
The amount of LED's you want to add are not enough to worry about. You can tap them directly into the existing wires with no problem. Also great idea of putting the reflective tape on, many people do not realize how much that stuff can aid visibility of your trailer should lights go out or if its parked.
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Former Ford Diesel Tech
ASE Certified Parts Counterperson, Automotive, Medium, & Heavy Truck Technician
1999 F250 XLT 4x4, Red, 7.3 6spd AWA5, 3.73LS rear, CCV Mod, APC Headlamps, Autometer C2 Gauges, (Boost,Pyro,Trans), 4" Turbo-back exhaust, XM Radio, AIS, ITP Regulated return, fuel feed lines, Airdog, & 4pos. chip. My Truck
2001 Ford Escort ZX2 - Black- 4cyl 2.0DOHC, 5spd.
1999 F350 4x4 XLT, CC/LB PSD, 6spd, Aluminum service bed, York Compressor Onboard air, CCV, Custom Intake & Exhaust, Strobes and a few other goodies
RIP Steph F. & Trista J., 4/27/07, you will be missed by many.
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guess I was wondering if I could just tap into the line and would the LED be able to work in line with the stock incandescents.
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Yessir, you can do just that. I did my horse tlr., flat bed, and travel tlr. a few years back. Fuse capacity, wire size doesn't even enter in to it because the LED's draw next to nothing as far as amperage. I also went with Truck Lite brand. But be aware if you already have standard Truck Lite, Grote, ect, on your trailer, the Truck Lite LED will not accept the standard pigtail. My LED's came with the special pigtails, but make sure your's do when you order them. Get some splice connecters, crimping pliers and you're all set.
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Assuming you are pulling this trailer with your 99 in your sig, your trailer marker lamps are triggered by a relay under the hood, and fused at 20A. You do not have to
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Assuming you are pulling this trailer with your 99 in your sig, your trailer marker lamps are triggered by a relay under the hood, and fused at 20A. You do not have to worry about any current draw through the switch.
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I agree and that 20A fuse also provides power to the trailer reversing lamps relay. Interesting is that for the 2001 E-Series that ckt is fused at 30A according to my Svc CD so you could probably increase the fuse size to like 25A if absolutely necessary. Not that I would recommend that to someone else, but I might do it myself if necessary. In any event if you were to blow that fuse it will only effect the trailer and not any of the vehicle ckts.
Larry
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Added these M3-A6 Marker - 6 Amber LED to my truck a week or so ago. Could not be more happy with them. Will be adding them to my trailer as well.
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im using the A12's as my maker lights on the factory step/bars...
im happy w/ em' (got one that leaks but its still working and
has been for over a year).
i wouldnt mind those A6's or even the A12's in RED as a rear
ID bar on my truck...hummmm i wonder if the A12's would be
TOO bright as a rear ID BAR ?
nice thing about the A12's is they are socket-ed...so if you
ever need to replace one its as easy as poping the dead one out
and pushing the replacement back in/onto the socket.
One curious thing about LEDs is that they turn on & off much faster than incandescents. If you have both types in a turn signal, it looks like they're on different circuits.
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Douglas Campbell [drcampbell ot engineer dat kahm]
November 5, 2008: The fat lady sang. Back to actually working for a living.
1986 Isuzu P'up, 177,673.8 miles. Hella headlights, (highly recommended) DOT C-2 back end. (also recommended) R-12 air conditioner converted to R-406a. 4.1:1 rear axle converted to 3.4:1.
9/22/2007, age 21: Still running well when reluctantly sent away for reincarnation, due to body & frame rust.
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Added these M3-A6 Marker - 6 Amber LED to my truck a week or so ago. Could not be more happy with them. Will be adding them to my trailer as well.
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im using the A12's as my maker lights on the factory step/bars...
im happy w/ em' (got one that leaks but its still working and
has been for over a year).
i wouldnt mind those A6's or even the A12's in RED as a rear
ID bar on my truck...hummmm i wonder if the A12's would be
TOO bright as a rear ID BAR ?
nice thing about the A12's is they are socket-ed...so if you
ever need to replace one its as easy as poping the dead one out
and pushing the replacement back in/onto the socket.
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The A12's were actually my first choice. I needed narrow and the A6 was just a lil bit more narrow so I went that direction. Not sure if they would be too bright from the rear or not, but you sure don't have any trouble seeing mine from an angle, very bright! Looks to me like they both have a diffuser lens. Might call and ask just to be safe?
Ill post some photos of my install job when i get a aroundtoit
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Just eating rainbows and butterflies