Maybe I've misplaced the instruction pamphlet. But I can't seem to find any instructions on how to properly adjust the integrated brake controller.
I assume you get hooked up to your trailer and then adjust the gain on the controller so it will almost lock up the trailer tires when you squeeze the two knobs tightly together.
My trailer brakes were pretty lite with my after market controller in my 2003 truck. Usually a setting of 3.5 was plenty. Any higher and I was skidding the tires. I'm using 7.0 on the integrated controller and not feeling much trailer braking unless I really push on the truck brakes. ( green bars all the way across). Should I feel a little trailer braking with a lite touch of the truck brakes?
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11 F350 CC Lariet SRW LWB Tuxedo Black
Scorpion bed liner and Truxedo tonneau cover
B&W turnover ball
My trailer brakes seem to operate the same way as you have described between my 2005 with ITBC and my 99 with a Prodigy. I just turn the controller all the way up on my 05, and it seems to work fine, especially with moderate pressure (the kind used to normally stop a load) With the 99 I can always feel the trailer brakes working, I think its just the fact that the ITBC is so seamless that it doestn even feel like they are working, at least that is in my case. Put a load on it, turn up the controller to 10, and take her for a run, see how she stops then.
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99 F350 XLT 4x4, Crew Cab, 19.5s, Cummins 12V powered, with a few mods, SBC DD clutch
I don't know too much about Ford's new Integrated Brake Controller, but I always set mine up so that the trailer brakes kick in just before the truck brakes kick in, using my foot pedal while driving. If you have it the other way around, in bad driving conditions you can jack knife her.
I adjust them accordingly too, depending on whether or not I'm highway driving or city driving.
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1995 F-350 XLT Crew Cab Dually 5 spd - Basically Stock - Used everyday for work & play (pulling 1989 36' Airstream Landyacht 5th wheel around the countryside to stock car races). I've owned the truck since new. I'm fortunate enough to be the 4th owner of the Airstream.
I like having my trailer brakes come on before the truck brakes as well, but due to the design of the Ford ITBC system, this is basically impossible to do. The only thing you can do is turn the brakes WAY up, so that they will stop with more force. But with the nature of the Ford system, and how smart it actually is....you will not get the same results as just turning up the brakes on any other aftermarket controller.
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99 F350 XLT 4x4, Crew Cab, 19.5s, Cummins 12V powered, with a few mods, SBC DD clutch
I know the Ford ITBC applys pressure to the trailer 1st, Truck RW 2nd and front wheels last to help you stop straight. But since each trailers brakes are so different, and since it does show a digital number ( to make it easy to set the right amount each time) I suspect we should set it for each trailer.
Maybe you are right, I should just turn it up to 10. I'm just used to my old controller and that would lock up the trailer's tires.
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11 F350 CC Lariet SRW LWB Tuxedo Black
Scorpion bed liner and Truxedo tonneau cover
B&W turnover ball
How does the Ford trailer brake controller apply pressure differently to the truck brakes? Since this is hydraulic and not electric, Im not sure how it could delay front wheel braking action until the rear wheels have already begun to slow the vehicle down.
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99 F350 XLT 4x4, Crew Cab, 19.5s, Cummins 12V powered, with a few mods, SBC DD clutch
Just what I read. I suspect because it's talking to the trucks Antilocking brake system. It seems reasonable to me, that since the truck has the abilty to pulse the brakes for antilock feature, that it has the ability to apply pressure as needed. Does it not have sensor's at each truck wheel to sense when a tire locks up? If the controller tells the Antilock brake system that it has a trailer hooked up. Could it not alter the programing with in the Antilock system to apply pressure as needed? Electric to the trailer and Hydralic to the truck? It's supposed to be all integrated.
I really don't know. Anybody with first hand knowledge that can educate me?
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11 F350 CC Lariet SRW LWB Tuxedo Black
Scorpion bed liner and Truxedo tonneau cover
B&W turnover ball
The integrated brake controller has no influence on the trucks brake application rate or the anti-lock system. It has a hydraulic line pressure sensor that the controller reads to modulate the voltage applied to the trailer. This voltage application is also moderated by whatever you have your bias control set at (1 thru 10). Your bias setting will vary with trailer weight, number of braking axles and the size (area) of said braking assemblies. My trailer has 4 brakes (I actually don't know the size but they're Dexter #5200 axles) and has about 9000lbs. on the axles. I run my controller on 10 and can't achieve lockup on dry pavement - I have no desire to try on wet. You're right on the money about not being able to "lead" the braking event with this controller as it has no level adjuster-Voyager- or boost option-Prodigy.After getting used to not having these adjustments to manipulate(which I was always doing) I came to realize how well the system actually works, and its proved itself in a couple of panic stops. As you stated, its hard to tell its working because it is so seamless - you don't FEEL it. But it definitely works.
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2011 F-350 Lariat, SRW, C.C., LWB, 4x4, Dark blue pearl metallic
2010 Montana Mountaineer 345 DBQ (5th)
Yep, thats the way I always understood it to work as well. The panic stop situations are really what makes this controller amazing. Ive been forced to slam on the brakes a few times, both unloaded and loaded, and each time the trailer just slows just without brake lockup, in a quick, and straight manner. Try that with a voyager or Prodigy....
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99 F350 XLT 4x4, Crew Cab, 19.5s, Cummins 12V powered, with a few mods, SBC DD clutch
Thanks guys, I appreciate the feed back. I'll guess I'll turn it up to 9-10 and leave it there. Both my trailers have double 7,000 lb axles. I usually run around 12,000lbs loaded.
Even empty they are 5000 & 7000 lbs.
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11 F350 CC Lariet SRW LWB Tuxedo Black
Scorpion bed liner and Truxedo tonneau cover
B&W turnover ball
Let us know how it works with a good sized load and the controller on 10. Try stopping normally and maybe a panic stop as well, if it still doesnt feel right, then Id have the controller checked at the dealer for the right amount of current flowing to the trailer.
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99 F350 XLT 4x4, Crew Cab, 19.5s, Cummins 12V powered, with a few mods, SBC DD clutch
You shouldn't just set it at "10" and leave it there. Go out someplace where you can stop and go at leisure without causing a wreck and set the controller properly. Get your rig up to about 35 - 40 mph. and apply the trailer brakes using the manual slide bar( trailer brakes only, stay off the pedal). Try this at increasingly higher settings until you just start to hear a tire or two slide,then back off slightly so no skidding occurs. Many heavier trailers will not reach wheel skid even on 10 so you can just leave it there BUT, if its a trailer that sees great weight changes such as a stock trailer or a car hauler be sure to check it empty to make sure your not going to have a problem empty. If it tries to lock up just bump it back a little -- maybe 8 -- when unloaded. Also if the road is wet or otherwise slick you may also want to reduce your brake setting somewhat.
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2011 F-350 Lariat, SRW, C.C., LWB, 4x4, Dark blue pearl metallic
2010 Montana Mountaineer 345 DBQ (5th)
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