Ford fro some reason does not keep the 12V wire hot with the ignition off. I had to supply a hot lead for this.
If the truck is on and you do not have power check the fues box under the hood.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 1/1/09 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 7 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet, 1 total paint job.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 4.6 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 16.5 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
You will either have to run another wire that you can hook up constant hot (don't forget to install an in line fuse) or you can put a battery on the trailer to run the lights. This way you can have lights inside wheather it's hooked to the truck or not. If you install a battery you can hook up the switched hot wire in the plug to it to help keep it charged while you are driving.
Joe
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2002 F350, Crew Cab, 4WD, ISSOPRO Gauges,
3.73, Auto, 2wd low range mod, No door dinger,
Interior lights off switch, Zoodad Mod,
Extra Trans Cooler, Before coolers trans fltr,
Coolant fltr, Crimestopper remote start/alarm
Oil Guard Bypass, Air horns
I have a Pace enclosed car hauler and my 12V interior lights only work when the lights are turned on in the truck. It took me a bit to figure it out, but it doesn't matter if the truck was on or off. I don't like turning the truck lights on to use the 12V interior trailer lights so I may try the above battery idea.
__________________ Semper Fi
Ed
04' F250 C/C, SWB, 6.0L, 4x4, True Blue/Silver
ISSPRO Gauges, Firestone Air Bags, LEER Cap, Super Liner Spray In
I love my truck.
I have a Pace enclosed car hauler and my 12V interior lights only work when the lights are turned on in the truck. It took me a bit to figure it out, but it doesn't matter if the truck was on or off. I don't like turning the truck lights on to use the 12V interior trailer lights so I may try the above battery idea.
That doesn't sound right. I have a friend with a Pace and his works as described above. You might want to verify there isn't a wire crossed or something in the plug. Are you close enough to have the dealer check it?
Tom
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02 CC XLT Dually 4x2, PSD w/6 spd, White w/Med Flint 40/20/40, TTT Mirrors, 4.10 L/S, PCM=AEB4, Receiver, Cab Steps, Homelink X Visor, Husky F&R Mud Flaps, AIS Ford Filter, WD Pyro & Boost in A-pillar, Line-X, Hutch Tank Mod, Pre-Pump Racor 645R30, 4" Banks Monster Exhaust, Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, Amsoil in Tranny & Diff.
Bye-bye 99 diesel-sucking automatic!!!
If you have a small breakaway battery, replace it with a larger one, then hook your lighting up to it . The battery should charge again when hooked up and traveling.
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99.5 F350 XLT Lariat 4X4 AT 4.10 DW CC LB Centurion conversion Garret Turbo, Radio SD &Tape, 100 Gal.Transfer Flow W/Trimax Control Aux. fuel tank. ScanGaugeII, Boost, EGT, Trans. Temp. Oil Temp. Build date 03/99
92 F350 7.3 IDI CC LB dually Banks turbo US Gear O/U
1990 F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L IDI E4OD Dually 280K+ 2WD
Reman Promar Long Block 11/07
Hey Guys. I ran into this problem a couple of years ago with my trailer. I could not believe that Ford did not have the wires in their harness already so I did some checking. As an electrical contractor, I startyed tracing the wires up the frame towards the front drivers side, up the fender well to empty plug connectors at fuse panel. According to Ford Technical Service Publications(manual), Ford made(as an option) a trailer relay box which plugs in directly behind and attached the fusebox towards the firewall. The relay box plugs right into the existing harness without the running of new wiring. It will make one wire constant hot and one switched hot for your trailer brake battery charger. Or you can switch the wires to how ever you like at the trailer connnector. The Ford parts guy had no idea what I was talking about. If you need the part numbers, please reply back and I will have to try to find the invoice or check the unit for a part number. Hope I was not too late in my reply. Good Luck!
I'm doing some wiring in the trailer this week, but I suspect I can take the feed for the already installed lights and run that to the two batteries I'm putting in, THEN go to the lights.
I have a Pace enclosed car hauler and my 12V interior lights only work when the lights are turned on in the truck. It took me a bit to figure it out, but it doesn't matter if the truck was on or off. I don't like turning the truck lights on to use the 12V interior trailer lights so I may try the above battery idea.
did you ever figure out what the problem was...I just bought a 14ft enclosed trailer, and have the EXACT same problem, interior light works only when truck lights are on, and doesn't matter if key is on or off.....any success in figuring this out?
acade, mine works exactly the same. I haven't had time to wire up any batteries, so I need to turn the truck on to get power in the trailer. I believe this is expected behavior.
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2002 F250 7.3 PSD XLT 4x4 EXT Cab Shortbox - EVO2, AIS w/Zoodad, MBRP 4" 409SS, 08 rear diff cover, 6.0 Trans cooler, Heated tow mirrors w/signals
1988 Mustang GT 9.71 @ 143 (1.43 60ft)
2008 H+H 24' CL series V Nose Car Hauler
My F450 came with factory installed 7 pin trailer wiring and plug. As per standard wiring for 7 pin connectors, one pin is 12V for trailer power and for charging the trailer batteries while underway. This is a 30 amp circuit, and has a fuse position in the engine compartment relay box for this fuse, and it is labeled as such. But, Ford did not put a fuse in, so to get power I had to simply plug in a 30 amp fuse.
So if you have a factory installed 7 wire plug, look for a missing fuse. Otherwise, do some wiring, don't forget to fuse it!!!
Funny story, when I picked up my new 34 ft. gooseneck horse trailer, I did not check the battery wiring (it has two large house batteries for the living quarters.)
A few days after the 1000 mile round trip, I was wringing out the wiring, no power from the truck. Fuse blown. Hmm. Checked trailer wiring, then went to the battery compartment. Dummies at the trailer builder wired the batteries positive ground!!!!! Good thing the truck supply was fused, otherwise I would have blown the alternator.
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1999 7.3 F450 Cabriolet Crew Cab with Aluminum hauler bed (love the side storage!), Banks Power Pac, Donaldson Air Filter, Set up for Fifth Wheel, Gooseneck and bumper pull. ATS Billet Transmission, ATS Five Star Torque Converter, ATS Co-Pilot. Pulling a 34 ft. Silverado Aluminum Horse Trailer with Living Quarters.
This F450 will be replaced with a heavier truck, maybe a Freightliner or a Peterbilt around 25,000 GVW. AND with a big manual transmission.
acade, mine works exactly the same. I haven't had time to wire up any batteries, so I need to turn the truck on to get power in the trailer. I believe this is expected behavior.
yeah, I guess it is a safety mechanism so you don't run your battery down by forgetting to turn the light off
so, my trailer stays parked...its like my mobile garage, so I needed the light to work even when not plugged into the truck...so I wired the light directly to the trailer battery last night...so once it runs out of juice, I'll just plug the trailer up and let the truck recharge the trailer battery when needed
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