Hey all. Started installing my B&W today, only to have to stop before I could get started due to the previous owner welding some fifth wheel hitch brackets to the frame that I have to cut off first. I did find a couple of things that the instructions werent very clear on, though. Where the side rail connects to the clamp at the bottom with a bolt, there's about a 1/2" gap with the stud on top of the clamp in the proper hole and the clamp vertical. Does a spacer go between these parts, or does it pull the clamp to an angle?
Second, does a 3/4" bolt go through the hole in the side plate and through the slotted hole on the truck's frame with a spacer between the frame and side plate?
'94 2WD F-250 PSD 5 speed. 302,000 miles, DIY open intake, 5" single stack, Banks pyro and boost gauge, Grover air horns, DynaMat. Still on the original CPS!
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F-450, 4wd, club cab, 4.88, KR, satellite, navigation, hi-capacity trailer towing, reverse sensor, memory mirrors/pedals/seats and tailgate step. Also Linex, TruckCoverUSA bed cover, CrimeStopper Remote Start and Alarm and a 25K Air Safe Air Ride 5er hitch.
The spacers go between the side rails and the truck frame rail--best I can remember, the frame is bent inward (not flat) and the spacer will keep the side rail from buckling when the bolt is tightened.
JC--talking about an underbed gooseneck hitch that has nothing in the bed when installed.
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2007 F350 KR DRW CC 4x4.
2005 Mobile Suites 36TK3
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Andy
Early 99 5-98, F350 extended cab, DRW LB 245,000 miles and counting, Hood insulation delete (Soaked with fuel), Hutch mod, Harpoon mod. Otherwise, pure stock (for now)
You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
'94 2WD F-250 PSD 5 speed. 302,000 miles, DIY open intake, 5" single stack, Banks pyro and boost gauge, Grover air horns, DynaMat. Still on the original CPS!
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