I just installed my hitch this weekend. All went smoothly, I must just be slower than other people. It took me a 4.5 hrs to install. A couple of points. The adhesive heat shield need to be removed to do the install. I used a dremel tool with a cutting disc to make the notches in the pinch weld between the box floor and the box sides. The measurements of 1.25" from the box rails is good for the front rail, but should be a little generous for the rear rail. I measured the center location of the bed at 23 15/16" from the pinch weld. I used the 49" length for the hole location. Using those two measurements I taped off the bed floor and used a hole saw to cut the hole. It came out exactly correct. When drilling the holes for the saftey chains on the passenger side I ended up removing the 3 rear exhaust hangers to be able to push the exhaust aside and get my drill in and drill the holes. I finised up the install by painting the raw metal edges with a little POR-15. I couldn't be more pleased. I have only one problem. When I pull the handle to remove the ball I can't rotate it. So I need to people to pull the ball in and out. I going to call them to day and find out why I can't make it work.
Landis
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2006 f350 King Ranch Dark Copper with shift on the fly 4x4, power moonroof, tow boss, tow command, fx4, 6 disc cd, adjustable pedals, dual altenators, upfitters switches, reverse aid sensors, snowplow package.
SOLD 89 F250 7.3 IDI XLT extended cab 2wd 5spd 450 read end and springs, set up for towing. 220,000 miles, my first diesel. Tows my race car like there is nothing behind it. lives in Kingston NH
Its not something I have to think about, but I believe the wheel-well handle doesn't really 'rotate' much - instead, you pull it out and push it forward [toward the front of the well]. I assume it has a spring loaded 'catch' on the front side of the handle that catches and holds the handle for you, disengaging it from the ball.
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2000 F250 4x2 Supercab XLT; Detroit Truetrac ltd slip diff. w/PML aluminum cover; FTVB; BTM; PF pads in the front. DP Tuner stock/60tow/80econ. 203 'stat, Cat ELC coolant, Gauges, Ford AIS, Bilsteins, Michelin LTX M/S, B&W gooseneck in a Line-X sprayed bed; UWS low profile tool box. Towing a 2004 CM Winstar 4 horse trailer loaded with quarterhorses, whenever possible ....
Wife's New Ride: 1999 Mercedes Benz E300 Turbo Diesel Sedan
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Its not something I have to think about, but I believe the wheel-well handle doesn't really 'rotate' much - instead, you pull it out and push it forward [toward the front of the well]. I assume it has a spring loaded 'catch' on the front side of the handle that catches and holds the handle for you, disengaging it from the ball.
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That's right the lever should lock out if you move it forward, mine does.
Capt Ron
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May 2003 F-350, CC, DRW, 6.0L, 6sp man, LB, Al Wheels, Moon Roof, 52gal tranfer tank. Hitches: Draw-Tite 16K 4X and B&W GN, 8040lbs GVW. Towing 35' Newmar Kountry Star 5th Wheel Camper, 14,000lbs GVW, or Wells Cargo 24' Car Hauler, 12,000lbs GVW.
Western Hauler put mine in, they wired the 6 pin connector into the back of the bed and I have the 7 pin and 4 pin connector under the bumper. I am now set to pull anything on wheels!!!
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Kevin L. Mnt Airy, NC.
2000 Ford F350 4X4 Auto,Crew Cab Lariat, Western Hauler Package, Long bed,
Isspro EV Guages on A-Pillar, Coolant change from Green to Gold to Red,
SCT XCalibrator2 with DP's 60 tow,80 econo,120 Race
Fumoto Valve, Marinco Mod, Homemade CCV MOD,Fuel Neck Mod, KMC Wheels at all 4's
Monroe Reflex Shoxs, SS/Kevlar Brake Lines,
FTVB from Greg Evans,Ford AIS Intake
Coolant filter,Walker BTM, Attwood Gooseneck ball flush mount,6.0 cooler, 2002 headlights & corners
Zoodad Mod,Cyro'd Powerslots and Hawks LTS Pads. 2005 front grill
Turbo Lifesaver, Infinity Refrence x4, powered by Infinity Reference amp, sounds awesome!!
Towing a 2005 HORNET 30BHSS 8500 LBS,
Stopping it with a Prodigy P3 Controller
Friends Don't Let Friends Drive Trucks With Generic Tunes!!
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