Took my 20' utility trailer on a 840 mile round trip over the holidays. First 420 it had a small load (queen size mattress) on it. There was a slight vibration from the trailer that could be felt inside the X. Once there I pulled around a JD1050 for about 60 miles at highway speeds and didn't feel any vibrations. On the returning 420 miles, the trailer was empty, and it shook the crap out of us. My neck hurts and my wife's back hurts from the constant shaking.
So, my question is. Is the vibration from running unbalanced trailer tires? Do you guys balance your trailer tires? Is it possible that it isn't the tires at all but slop in the trailer hitch (bulldog 2 5/16 hitch that is nearly new, less than 3k miles on it and always lubed)? Any other thoughts? Won't ever take the trailer on a long trip again if I don't get this sorted out, it was 6 hours of hell.
...danny
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2001 'X' 7.3l PSD 4x4 Limited
Oxford White / Medium Parchment
K&N Air filter, Husky Floor Liners
20' H&H Speedloader MX Tiltbed Trailer
Bilstein shocks(BE5-6208 front, BE56209 rear) $259.80 to my door.
Most empty trailers will ride like they don't have springs, that's because the suspension is so stiff for hauling loads. I've seen empty double semi trailers "bounce" several inchs off the interstate surface!
I've looked in the mirror and seen my trailer bounce off the ground when empty! If I role my window down when driving through town I can hear it back there going "BAM, BAM, BAM, BAM".
To answer your question: I mounted retreads on my flatbed and did NOT ballance them, now I've replaced 2 of them and the shop balanced those, I can't tell a differance.
Seriosly, you and the wife have neck/back pain from this? I've hauled my flat bed 750 miles non stop empty behind my dodge 1/2 ton and didn't have a problem.
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'93 Ford F250 w/ 7.3 IDI diesel (no turbo) E4od auto. SC/LB 2WD, but hey, got 3 attenas. retired government vehicle.
'26 tall T coupe on '67 scout frame w/400 Ford/C6
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 SC/SB w/318/5spd 4X4 3" SkyJacker lift 33-12.50X15 Perreli Scorpions
'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad cab/SB w/360/auto 4X4 NO LIFT!!! Running 33-12.50X15 Hi-Tech-Retreads with Green Diamonds (alternative to studs!) on saw blade chrome wheels.
'62 Caddy 2dr, "slammed" with air bag suspension. I can literaly set it on the ground!!!!
'48 CJ2A w/'61 over head valve engine
'77 Chevy Caprice, rare 2 door! Built 350 4 bolt mains. Weyand high ram intake, Headman Headers, dual glass pack "cop callers", TH350 with high stall converter and B&M "street/strip" kit (churps the tires hitting 3rd @ 90MPH!!!!)
'84 AC 5040 w/ loader
'71 Dodge D200 w/'69 vette 327 & powerglide
'97 Morgan built 20' tilt car hauler
'01 Morgan built 16'cattle trailer
Ford 9N
Ford 8N
JD model 40C crawler
All of my trailers except my dump trailer have balanced tires. When I pull the dump trailer empty over 70 mph it shakes. However with a load it doesn't. I believe that the load presses the tires against the road surface and damps out the unbalanced condition. If I replace the tires on this trailer they will get balanced.
Sore neck and back, yep I can believe that. Happens to me too.
Capt Ron
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May 2003 F-350, CC, DRW, 6.0L, 6sp man, LB, Al Wheels, Moon Roof, 52gal tranfer tank. Hitches: Draw-Tite 16K 4X and B&W GN, 8040lbs GVW. Towing 35' Newmar Kountry Star 5th Wheel Camper, 14,000lbs GVW, or Wells Cargo 24' Car Hauler, 12,000lbs GVW.
Check for seperated tires. The easiest way is to lift each wheel and give it a good fast spin. Look for 'jumps' in the tread of the tire, and for sideways 'jumps', or just take it in and have a shop check. The balancer spins much faster than possible by hand.
3 of the 4 on our trailer were seperated. Replaced all 4, and it rides like a dream.
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Check for seperated tires. The easiest way is to lift each wheel and give it a good fast spin. Look for 'jumps' in the tread of the tire, and for sideways 'jumps', or just take it in and have a shop check. The balancer spins much faster than possible by hand.
3 of the 4 on our trailer were seperated. Replaced all 4, and it rides like a dream.
Daniel
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What is a seperated tire?
I am definately thinking of taking my tires to a good shop, but wanted to run it past the knowledge base here before I waste my money.
Keep them coming guys.
...danny
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2001 'X' 7.3l PSD 4x4 Limited
Oxford White / Medium Parchment
K&N Air filter, Husky Floor Liners
20' H&H Speedloader MX Tiltbed Trailer
Bilstein shocks(BE5-6208 front, BE56209 rear) $259.80 to my door.
I always have all my trailer tires balanced. This was discussed a bunch here before, and most all of us agreed, less wear and tear on suspension, trailer contents, etc, plus WAY out of balance tires will cup (flat spots) so you'll need new tires sooner.
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Check for seperated tires. The easiest way is to lift each wheel and give it a good fast spin. Look for 'jumps' in the tread of the tire, and for sideways 'jumps', or just take it in and have a shop check. The balancer spins much faster than possible by hand.
3 of the 4 on our trailer were seperated. Replaced all 4, and it rides like a dream.
Daniel
[/ QUOTE ]
What is a seperated tire?
I am definately thinking of taking my tires to a good shop, but wanted to run it past the knowledge base here before I waste my money.
Keep them coming guys.
...danny
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Most modern tires have a rubber coating over the structural part of the tire. This is the trear and sidewall that you see. Inside that are layers of steel belts/bands/belts and nylon. The steel is generally in the tread,and the nylon is in the sidewall and tread. Here is a picture of a passanger tire.
The steel belts can move apart, usually caused by overloading, over pressure, sharp impact, poor manufacturing, and the list goes on...
The steel belts can pull apart along the tire, kind of like stretching the tire to make it taller. This moving apart makes the surface of the tread hop up and down as it spins. This is the most noticeable type of seperation when driving, and is easily seen from the side of the tire when it is spun freely.
The other common type of seperation is when the steel belts move sideways. This causes the tire to "snake" as it rotates. This is easily seen from the rear or front of the tire as it rotates freely. Here is a cutaway of a medium duty truck tire.
I have seen the tire seperate from the bead, but that was on a severely overloaded grain cart. The tires were overloaded by at least 2.5X routinely. We replaced the tires under warranty for the manufacturer of the cart since they had spec'd the tires.
<font color="red"> NOTE: </font> There is usually a small (<1.5" wide) seam along the side of the tire running near the bead to near the tread. This is normal. It is where there is a seam in the nylon plys.<font color="red"> END NOTE </font>
A good tire shop will be able to have you running smooth quickly.
There is a Neal Tire & Auto in Bloomington Ill. I worked at one in Greencastle, In and had good co-workers. Their prices are reasonable and they have some good tires. Their locations are here. Give them a try if you don't already have a favorite shop.
I have the tires on my travel trailer balanced. I can't feel the difference, but there is no way to "unload" the TT. I frequently tow a 13K# flatbed trailer, and it sucks to tow empty. When I got my 99F350, I towed that trailer behind my 96 F350 from Iowa to Michigan. I was dreading the trip, but, I thought about it, and moved my weight distributing hitch stuff (spring bars) to the flat bed, put just a tiny but of lift on it (enough to just lift the draw bar from the bottom of the reciever to the top) and it towed beautifully. No beating on the passengers.
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Me + Wife + 3 Rugrats + 1 German Sheherd (The Sheriff) = 1 Crew Cab Full
Early 99 2wd Crew Cab SRW 6MT
FPR Shim and 6637 Mod
I used to have a tow dolly, I think the tires held about 65 psi for towing. I would air them down to about 10 psi unloaded which cut down a lot on the bouncing. I had to run from Cleveland OH to Lancing MI with the dolly empty and didn't need it bouncing its usual 4" off the ground.
For a long empty trip, I definitely recommend airing down. A tire running with very little weight on it only needs enough pressure to keep the beads seated, like I said I ran 10 psi for several hundred miles with no issues.
Balancing the trailer tires will probably help somewhat. Also there are hitches that have a rubber isolator inside that may help isolate some of the vibration from your tow rig.
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1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
I had this problem in my 16' utility with 7.00-15 bias tires.
Lent it out to somebody - came back shaking.....hmmm...
Took it to the shop 3 wheel balanced nicely - 4th wheel needed 8oz and tire was wobbling.. they reseated the tire (wheel was fine) and added the weight. smooth ride - although tire still wobbled on machine (hard to see driving down the road...
but - problem solved - you either had a bad tire or out of balance tire. Don't just get them balanced - but have them look for wobble / flat spots.
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99.5 F-250 CC LB 4x4 7.3 Red, Trail Boss Replacement Bumpers, Tool Box, Headache Rack, Full Length Running Boards, Bilstien Shocks, Isspro A-Pillar Gauges, Isspro TTM, Ford AIS, BFG AT/KO 285/75x16, Magnaflow 3.5" DP - 4" Exhaust, 2003 Cup Holder, X-Springs, Rear 4" F350 Blocks, ATS Housing, Edge Evolution (Rev. 19), Banks Big Head, DS Boost Relief, Weather Tech Rain Vents / Hood Guard, B&W GN Hitch, Sonnax/Tricum
Balance your trailer wheels! Your truck wheels are balanced. Better for everything, tire wear, bearings, keeping wheels on the trailer.
You might be suprised at how far out of balance some trailer tires and wheels can be.
Most or all trailer manufacturers do not balance the wheels on trailers that they sell because you generally will not feel trailer wheel vibration from inside your truck. However that doesn't mean that the vibration isn't there causing much premature wear and damage. Have all of your wheels balanced!
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2005 F-350 Lariat, 6.0 PSD, Torqueshift auto trans, crew cab, SRW, short box, FX4, ESOF, limited slip dif., tow command, upfitter switches, 6 CD changer, Lariat Lux. package, camper package, engine block heater, adjustable pedals, reverse sensor, triple A-pillar gauge set (Autometer) with pyrometer, trans temp & voltmeter, MBRP 4" cat back exhaust w/5" dual wall chrome tip, dark shadow gray/ med. flint interior.
2008 Big Horn fifth wheel by Heartland RV model 3670RL. 38' long, 4 slides and all the goodies.
I have a Hurst 7'x16' two axle, 5 ton rated with leaf springs. The thing will shake the console off the seat of a 1/2 ton pickup at about 27 MPH. I always thought it was unballanced tires or just a structural oscillation when empty. But last spring I had to pull the left front wheel to replace a brake wire (dog chew toy) and when I was puting the hub back on and trying to center the wheel (dayton wedges) I noticed a wobble. Looked a little closer without the tire and noticed that the cast hub/brakedrum was actually turned crooked. The bearing bore and brake surface are parallel, but the outside milled surface for the wheel rim to seat in is about 1/4" off center. Been draggin it since '87 so I'm not gonna change it now. Usually have it loaded anyway and then it's not noticed, must be buffered by the springs.
By the way, the trailer was stripped painted and new floor a couple yrs ago and I welded in a couple corner stiffeners inside the front frame rail - crossmember connection. This changed the "shakey speed" from 25 to 27MPH. So it has some to do with the steel frame oscillation as well. Just gotta remember to hold the McDonalds cup untill it's half empty so it don't splash out of the cup!!!
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'89 F250 7.3 IDI (new trailer hog)
'97 F150 4.2 v6, full of tools and draggin bumper
'99 F450 tool truck, 18K lbs daily
'95 Ford L8000 Dump truck w/8.3 Cummins
'03 Jetta TDI runnin B100 "Tastes like fried chicken"
Kubota ZD25 runnin B100
Fleet of CAT and Case Dirt toys on B10
Too many trailers to count.