We will be putting our 5th wheel up for sale but over the week end
I was checking everything out to make sure it still works.Well it seems the convertor or invertor (whatever it is)doesn't want to charge the battery.I fully charged it in the shop after being inside over the winter then installed it in the camper.I turned on all the lights to drain it down.After that I plugged the camper in to charge it back up and after about 24 hours still now 12 volt power.I can hear the convertor/invertor humming away so maybe there could be something else I need to look at?Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thnak you
Kevin
I have seen some that have a fuse on the charger part of the inverter that will blow.
Good luck........Dan
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99.5 Build Date 3/99 Red Crew Cab 4x4 DRW Lariat..... Gages and SCMT,6.0cooler,muffler delete and home made Tymar intake, Gutted EBV, Wicked Wheel,Non EBV turbo Base,manual locking TC with LEDs
I have also worked on some that have automotive circut breakers that go bad. Most of the time you have to take the inverter apart to get to them.
Have a good one
Dan
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99.5 Build Date 3/99 Red Crew Cab 4x4 DRW Lariat..... Gages and SCMT,6.0cooler,muffler delete and home made Tymar intake, Gutted EBV, Wicked Wheel,Non EBV turbo Base,manual locking TC with LEDs
Charging systems on RV's are not like that of a car. They are more like a trickle charger and they take a long time to bring a battery up to full charge.
Unplug your RV and take a reading on the positive/negative terminals with a multimeter. Then plug your trailer back in and take another reading. Your ampreage should be higher than your first reading if your converter is working properly. If not, start checking fuses or maybe even a reset button if indicated in your owner's manual.
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1994 F250 HD, IDI Diesel, 3:55 gears, K&N filter, Hayden Tranny Cooler, Monroe HD SensaTrac shocks, dual pillar pod with temp & tranny guage, poly fuel tanks
The invertors go bad...how old is yours? I had to replace mine last year for a similar problem. It had a life time warrantee, but the manufactorer went bankrupt...oh well. I went on line and found numerous replacements out there for a few hundred bucks to mega bucks. I went to a stealership to see what it would cost to replace...they wanted $500 in labor just to start. Went back and checked what I needed to do as my invertor was beneath my stove/oven and I was not able to reach the terminals. I found four simple screw holding my stove/oven in, so I removed them...stove/oven popped right out and I had to disconnect the gas. Took less than 5 minutes. The invertor was completely accessable at this point. Simple to disconnect the wires. I had the replacement in, re-wired, and the stove back in place in under 30 minutes (a 5 minute job for an experienced guy).
The other thing to check is to make sure your batteries aren't bad as they have a limited life as well.
Check all possible fuses first. There should be battery circuit fuses on your main fuse panel. There should also be another fuse box, near your rv battery compartment, that could be the cause.
That should do the trick.
Pat
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06 F350 4x4 XLT, CC, LB, True Blue, 3.73LS, dash mount Pyro (ESOF knob), with stick, 40K miles, Toyo Open Country MT 275/70/18/E.
97 F350 4x4 XLT, CC, 136k.....SOLD to new owner
My 5'er is a 1994.Possible that it's bad but I will check for fuses at the inverter and up at the front by the battery.I checked battery for fluid and was fully charged before I installed it.I intentionally drained it down with lights left on.Probably now can't do this until the week end.Sorry about that but thanks for the tips.
Kevin
What kind of converter are you running? My Magnetek had similar problem where it wouldn't charge batteries while plugged into shore line, but did charge from truck. Problem was a resistor inside the charger side of unit and it is very easy to replace.
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Early'99 F350,CC,Lariat,white w/beige,AT,DRW,LB,4X4,05 front & badge conversion,headlight harness upgrade,05 KR running boards,custom two-tone leather w/captains,Kenwood dd deck,Boston sl speakers & G3 12"subs,3"lift,adj Rancho shocks,Jetzon 255-85-16,Titan class V 2-1/2" hitch,custom frame mount camper tie-downs,late 99 hub/brake conv. with ADB slotted rotors,Firestone no-drill air bags,updated airbox w/Airaid,zoodad mod, pcm flashed w60hp-tow by DP-Tuner,quad-pod pillar w/Autometer Z-series(boost,pyro,trans,eng temp),B&M deep trans pan,custom built trans with billet converter,203* t-stat,MBRP 4" XP,Turbomaster wastegate controller, BRV+,Banks 6.0 technicooler, more engine mods to come
If your interested, I can talk you through seeing if it's the same problem I had. Everyone in rv industry is quick to sell you a new charger/converter for $200 or better, but never willing to help you try to fix the one you have for a few bucks.
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Early'99 F350,CC,Lariat,white w/beige,AT,DRW,LB,4X4,05 front & badge conversion,headlight harness upgrade,05 KR running boards,custom two-tone leather w/captains,Kenwood dd deck,Boston sl speakers & G3 12"subs,3"lift,adj Rancho shocks,Jetzon 255-85-16,Titan class V 2-1/2" hitch,custom frame mount camper tie-downs,late 99 hub/brake conv. with ADB slotted rotors,Firestone no-drill air bags,updated airbox w/Airaid,zoodad mod, pcm flashed w60hp-tow by DP-Tuner,quad-pod pillar w/Autometer Z-series(boost,pyro,trans,eng temp),B&M deep trans pan,custom built trans with billet converter,203* t-stat,MBRP 4" XP,Turbomaster wastegate controller, BRV+,Banks 6.0 technicooler, more engine mods to come
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