Bearings on boat trailer axle - Diesel Forum

ericcklem · 03-04-2006, 11:49 AM

Does anyone know about how much it would cost to have the bearings on a single axle boat trailer replaced and also who can do it? My parents have a 22 year old trailer made by shorelander(I think that it is rated at 4000lbs) that has only been driven a couple of miles each trip but sees a lot of salt water. Up until now, I haven't worried about the bearings since the trips are so short but it needs to make a couple of 150 mile trips this summer. I am worried about them because I can see the wheels wobble as I drive and the only time that it ever gets greased is when I use it which isn't that often.
So I was just wondering what you guys suggest? I think that they will pay for someone to do it because I probably won't get to it by then. Also, do boat trailers have standard bearing sizes or will it be really hard to find the correct bearing? Otherwise, the trailer is in reasonable shape so they are hoping not to put in too much money.

FatDog · 03-04-2006, 02:25 PM

I have a question for you since you have a true antique laboratory specimen on your hands ....
... how's the frame (is it C-channel?) and axle holding up after "22 years of lots of salt water"?

I see guys out here using more box channel with "lots" of drain holes drilled all along the bottom of the frame. The box channel might look better, but even the C-chan rusts easily. So the box-chan must rust like a dog irregardless of how many drain holes. But a lot of guys figure they'll just replace the trailer anyway after a handful of years of sal****er.

Is your folks trailer galv'ed, or sanded and repainted every couple years, .?
If the frame, rollers, and wiring are solid ..... and you are just out a few bearings, I figure you are ahead of the game. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

05F250PS · 03-04-2006, 02:35 PM

[ QUOTE ]
Does anyone know about how much it would cost to have the bearings on a single axle boat trailer replaced and also who can do it? My parents have a 22 year old trailer made by shorelander(I think that it is rated at 4000lbs) that has only been driven a couple of miles each trip but sees a lot of salt water. Up until now, I haven't worried about the bearings since the trips are so short but it needs to make a couple of 150 mile trips this summer. I am worried about them because I can see the wheels wobble as I drive and the only time that it ever gets greased is when I use it which isn't that often.
So I was just wondering what you guys suggest? I think that they will pay for someone to do it because I probably won't get to it by then. Also, do boat trailers have standard bearing sizes or will it be really hard to find the correct bearing? Otherwise, the trailer is in reasonable shape so they are hoping not to put in too much money.

[/ QUOTE ]

Trailers are not high tech. I bet they have been using the same bearings for 20 years. Advance Auto and the like usually keep trailer bearings in stock for around $10.. Do some trailer research and you may find the bearings easy to get..

ericcklem · 03-04-2006, 03:03 PM

[ QUOTE ]
I have a question for you since you have a true antique laboratory specimen on your hands ....
... how's the frame (is it C-channel?) and axle holding up after "22 years of lots of salt water"?

I see guys out here using more box channel with "lots" of drain holes drilled all along the bottom of the frame. The box channel might look better, but even the C-chan rusts easily. So the box-chan must rust like a dog irregardless of how many drain holes. But a lot of guys figure they'll just replace the trailer anyway after a handful of years of sal****er.

Is your folks trailer galv'ed, or sanded and repainted every couple years, .?
If the frame, rollers, and wiring are solid ..... and you are just out a few bearings, I figure you are ahead of the game. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[/ QUOTE ]

The frame on it is made out of galvenized box channel. There are quite a few drain holes and each end of the box is left open. I like the trailer because the galvanizing on it is holding up quite well. I work on a schooner in the summers and deal with a lot of galvanized stuff and it is amazing how much the quality can differ. We have recieved some "galvanized" parts that are rusted before they even make it out of the box. Another thing that helps is that where we park it, it is not on flat ground so that all of the water runs out of the back end of the trailer. The only thing that seems to be rusting badly is the leaf springs but they aren't that bad. I have given up on license plate brackets so I just zip tie on the license plate. I have also given up on lights on the trailer. I have a 2X4 with lights on it that clamps down on the stern of the boat and I just run the wire up to my truck inside the boat. I have replaced most of the rollers at this point. I have been tempted to convert it to bunk boards a few times but it probably isn't worth the trouble. We wash the trailer with fresh water after each use and it seems to be lasting quite well. Hopefully bearings will be as easy as everything else on it has been.

94_turbo · 03-05-2006, 04:02 PM

if its wobbling the tires when you follow--those bearings are shot--replace both the inner and outer--and fill plenty full of grease--to keep the water out--and buy the pressure grease hubs--also helps to keep the water out of the bearings--also could use the grease that water doesnt bother--

ericcklem · 03-05-2006, 07:48 PM

[ QUOTE ]
if its wobbling the tires when you follow--those bearings are shot--replace both the inner and outer--and fill plenty full of grease--to keep the water out--and buy the pressure grease hubs--also helps to keep the water out of the bearings--also could use the grease that water doesnt bother--

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks for the advice. One additional question. I saw a writeup talking about trailer bearings and it mentioned getting marine grade ones that have better seals. Does this mean that they are completely sealed and are not greasable? The ones that are on there are original and they have grease fittings on them. Thanks for the replies.

OT · 03-05-2006, 08:27 PM

Bearings still avail. for my 1984 single axle Calkins boat t. If u cant do, call around & get est. As mentioned, replace both inner/outer bearings + new grease seals. New b.races & cotter pins a good idea. Hopefully axle shaft ok? Good luck!

btw...u didnt say, but if t. has brakes, how are they?

AlH · 03-05-2006, 08:52 PM

Are the grease fittings on the axle ends or on the dust covers. If they are on the axle ends you are in luck, that is a lot better system. Way way back in my youth I worked a couple of years at a boat yard and did probably hundreds of boat trailer bearing replacements and repacks. It was not uncommon to have to cut the bearing races off the axle with a torch if they had been neglected for a long time. If that's the case the price escalates dramatically to have the work done.

ericcklem · 03-05-2006, 10:21 PM

Sorry for not including all of the info. The trailer does not have brakes. Also, the grease fittings are on the axle ends if I remember correctly. I appreciate the help guys.

xtn · 03-21-2006, 03:28 PM

Last summer I replaced three entire axles on a tripple axle boat trailer. When I saw the wheels wobbling I jacked her up to have a look-see. I found that the bearing race had chewed itself into oblivion and the wheel had started to eat through the spindle itself.

In my case the shafts were welded onto the boxed axles. When I called around to a couple of trailer manufacturers to find out what it would cost to weld new spindles onto the axle, I was told I could buy complete new axles, with new spindles AND new disk brakes (the originals were drums and needed replacing anyway) cheaper than repairing the old ones.

I paid $125 per axle, the cost for new bearings/races and new U-bolts, and the time to do the work. Oh, I better include about three hours of time calling around trying to find the right U-bolts! Besides the time spent searching for parts and driving to get them, it was about a sixteen man-hour job for me, alone in my driveway with a bottle jack and hand tools.

xtn