Brake controller and brake wiring questions - Diesel Forum

xj4life · 05-10-2006, 02:00 PM

1) How do I wire the brakes on my trailer? Previous owner put mobile home axles on the trailer. Brakes were bad and the local trailer shop wanted to much money to repair them. They were afraid of them locking up on me so they cut the wires. Last was last summer and I just got in some new 6K axles with new electric brakes. Can anyone explain how to wire them up?

2) Setting up the brake controller. Previous owner of the truck had a TAP Brake Master controller installed. I know nothing about it and very little about controllers in general. The only adjustments I see are a slide for time on the side, slide for power on the top, and a spring loaded slide in the front. What do I need to do to set it up properly for the load I'm carrying?

wittmeba · 05-10-2006, 06:57 PM

Brakes coils/solenoids should be wired in parallel - meaning if you can visualize two vertical wires all the brakes/soleniods just connect across to each wire. For simplicity, you should only have 2 wires going to the left side (brake controller output and ground) and 2 wires going to the right side (brake controller output and ground) and should be exactly the same. The output from the controller should connect to these sets thru the 7 pin connector.

See if these help:
http://members.cox.net/bruce.wittmei...rsSummary.html
http://www.marksrv.com/wiring.htm
http://www.etrailer.com/faq/wiring.asp
http://users3.ev1.net/~crossstitch/RVWiring/wiring.html

Not knowing for sure what controller you have, it sounds similar to the Activator II. 1 adjustment is the max output amount, the other (side) is the time it takes to reach that preset output amount.

There is no magic or crystal ball that determines a setting...every one must be set based on the Tow Vehicle, trailer and road conditions. Just trial and error.

xj4life · 05-11-2006, 06:45 AM

thanks

xj4life · 05-12-2006, 10:42 AM

i checked the trailer last night and the previous wiring was one line on the left side coming off the bundle. that line splits off into to lines, one to the right side (split again for front and rear axle), and another one to the left side brakes (split again for front and rear axle). then each individual brake is grounded to the trailer frame.

does this sound right?

wittmeba · 05-13-2006, 12:39 PM

That sounds correct. What that means is when you put power to the 1 wire at the connector, you should have 12 VDC at each brake - the cut wires hot side - all at the same time. Thats what you want.

If there is a second wire or neutral it should be hooked to ground.

Are the new axles installed on the trailer? If so, and the wires were cut at the brakes or that area, you should be able to connect the new brake/axle wire to the cut wires.

Post back if there are more questions.

Tina · 05-13-2006, 07:45 PM

I don't know if this is the right way to set your controler or not but it's how I do it: before I start out driving, I'll stop a few times (like in the drive in front of the house or the parking lot) and see which setting on the controler feels like it's stopping the trailer the best.

wittmeba · 05-14-2006, 10:28 AM

[ QUOTE ]
I don't know if this is the right way to set your controler or not but it's how I do it: before I start out driving, I'll stop a few times (like in the drive in front of the house or the parking lot) and see which setting on the controler feels like it's stopping the trailer the best.

[/ QUOTE ]
Most definitely. The road is the true test. Prodigy suggests just this - go to a parking lot where the brakes can be tested, locked and calibrate with 'your' setup.

I do this same with the Jordan...work the brakes a few times while exiting storage. Then with the truck stopped and brakes firmly depressed - dial in the number (usually about 9.5 - 9.7) with the ability to reach 12 with more pedal pressure.