Brake controller: "Trailer Error"

[FTG-05]

I've got the integrate Tow brake controller in my '06. When I hook up my 7k lb car hauler with my '85 Toy 4Runner in it and use the brakes, I get the "Trailer Error" message. According to the owner's manual, this indicates that there is a short in the trailer braking wiring system. Both of my trailer axles have electric brakes.

Can anybody point me in the right direction? Is the fault with the brakes themselves or the wiring done by the trailer manufacturer (trailer was bought new in mid-Feb)? All wiring testing will have to be done under the trailer since the wood deck is not really removable.

All help appreciated.

Thanks,

Al

[Casey_1]

[ QUOTE ]
Is the fault with the brakes themselves or the wiring done by the trailer manufacturer

[/ QUOTE ]
It's impossible to tell without a meter and some diagnostic time. All the controller can do is tell you there is a problem, it can't locate it for you.

[Toisich]

I've experience this myself. The Ford Integrated Brake Controller is very sophisticated and can detect things other brake controllers can't. It continually sends out a small electronic pulse to check the brakes.

In my case, I have two trailers both with twin Dexter axles and electronic brakes. One would work with my 2005 Ford while the other kept getting the error message. Took the one that kept getting the error message back to the manufacturer and they did find a short in the wire running through the axle. They replaced the wire and all is fine.

The story is really a lot longer and more complicated, but that's the gist of it to keep it short. Your problem probably rests with a short in the wiring and is more at the trailer side of things.

Good hunting.

[Texascadillac42]

9 times out of 10, a bad ground will trip up the Ford controller while others might work "ok" with it. If you have the ability, go try the trailer out with an aftermarket controller that is a bit "dumber" and see what happens. Id be willing to bet a bad ground is all thats hanging you up.

[FTG-05]

TexasCaddie,

Yep, that's what I figured also. I've already got a good ground, I redid it when the cable came out of the connector while moving the trailer from my back yard. After the recabling and everything, I still have the problem.

I'll put it up on blocks Friday and see if I see something obvious with the wiring. I'm not too impressed with the wiring as it came from the factory, the cable coming out of the connector is a good example, having no dedicated ground is another.

In fairness to the manufacturer, they did offer to fix it, but they are over 40 miles away and I'd have to do it during work hours.

Thanks,

Al

[Texascadillac42]

I think your problem may be the grounds at each individual trailer brake. Check, clean and reclean the grounds for each trailer brake, this should be a real good start. Even some of the more expensive trailers have problems with wiring....

[FTG-05]

Tex, thanks. I didn't know that electric brakes had grounds, someone told me that they didn't.

Since, according to the owner's manual, a "trailer error" indicates a short in the brake system, IRC, then maybe a "hot" is connected to a ground while the ground is connected to the brake mechanism.

Under the trailer I go Friday afternoon....

Thanks,

Al

[StuartV]

I just went through this myself. I took my trailer to a local trailer/hitch place. They found 3 problems. One wire to one of the axles was stripped too far back allowing a bare wire to occasionally touch the axle. That one was easy to see. They replaced the plug that plugs into the truck bumper. And, finally, they went into the hubs and found a wire inside one of the hubs, where it connected to the brakes that was also stripped too far back and would occasionally be jostled into touching something and grounding itself out.

Good luck with yours!

[tta583]

Hey Albin,

Well, when you go under I bet you will find it. I agree with you, most "factory" wire jobs are a mess. Are the brakes connected to the trailer wiring harness with those cheesy 3M snap connectors? You know, the ones with the vampire tap used for splcing a wire "in-line". Seems like every trailer I get a hold of those things riddle the wiring. If you have them take them out and make good splices. They make perfect locations for water and corrostion which weakens the connections and ... well you know where this is going.

As for the brakes not having a ground...well they do, they ground through the trailer frame...generally. Sounds like you did not have a dedicated ground...I run across that as well. The idea is to ground through the tounge and hitch. Well, add in some paint, rust, and if you are like me some grease on the ball and you end up with a cruddy ground.

Here is the short list of things I do with new trailers or ones I help folk fix.

- Dump all the quick "snap" connectors. I like good solid wire to wire splices caped with either weather tight wire nuts or standard wire nuts filed with dielectric grease. I then tape wrap all the connections and make sure they point "up" so they will not hold water.
- Check ALL the wiring for these connections - lights, brakes, etc.
- Wire a good ground. I run a good heavy wire from the ground pin on the plug to the trailer frame. If there is a bolt in tounge jack I like to clean up and use one of those bolts. If there is no bolt handy I drill a hole some place in the tounge and fit in a stud. Smear some dielectric grease on there was well.
- Use terminals, rings, spades, etc on your wire ends where you can.
- If I end up re-lighting a trailer I like to run dedicated grounds to the lights as opposed to using just the frame. Just put a ring on a length of wire and secure that ring under a mounting stud of the light. I run them up to the tounge and terminate them at the bolt or stud where I tied the plug ground into the frame.
- Inspect the wiring looking for places where it could rub on the frame. Tie things up with zip ties as needed.
- I also like to replace the jack bolts, if it is bolted in, with stainless bolts. Not electrical but they tend to rust and I have had to fight getting them out. Use some anti-seize on them.

good luck!!

[FTG-05]

[ QUOTE ]
Hey Albin,

....

Here is the short list of things I do with new trailers or ones I help folk fix.

- Dump all the quick "snap" connectors. I like good solid wire to wire splices caped with either weather tight wire nuts or standard wire nuts filed with dielectric grease. I then tape wrap all the connections and make sure they point "up" so they will not hold water. YEP, GOT THE SNAP CONNECTORS, NEAR AS I COULD TELL.

- Check ALL the wiring for these connections - lights, brakes, etc. WILL DO

- Wire a good ground. I run a good heavy wire from the ground pin on the plug to the trailer frame. If there is a bolt in tounge jack I like to clean up and use one of those bolts. If there is no bolt handy I drill a hole some place in the tounge and fit in a stud. Smear some dielectric grease on there was well. DONE, WITH THE GREASE AND EVERYTHING

- Use terminals, rings, spades, etc on your wire ends where you can. I PLAN TO SOLDER MY CONNECTIONS, THEN HEAT SHRINK IT.

- If I end up re-lighting a trailer I like to run dedicated grounds to the lights as opposed to using just the frame. Just put a ring on a length of wire and secure that ring under a mounting stud of the light. I run them up to the tounge and terminate them at the bolt or stud where I tied the plug ground into the frame. RIGHT NOW, THINGS ARE GROUNDED ON THE FRAME AND I WAS PLANNING TO KEEP IT THAT WAY UNTIL I REPLACE THE WOOD WHEN NEEDED SINCE I CAN'T GET TO THE WIRING VERY EASILY. MAY HAVE TO CHANGE THAT PLAN.....

- Inspect the wiring looking for places where it could rub on the frame. Tie things up with zip ties as needed. GOT IT.

- I also like to replace the jack bolts, if it is bolted in, with stainless bolts. Not electrical but they tend to rust and I have had to fight getting them out. Use some anti-seize on them. JACK WELDED IN. I'LL POST PICS OF MY TRAILER.

good luck!!

[/ QUOTE ]

My responses, in all caps (sorry!).

Don't misinterprete me: I really like this trailer, it tows like a dream (and I'm not a tow expert or have hardly any experience), it looks well built, and it holds my Toy very well. I'll post some pics later.

Thanks for the help. This will be Friday night's task, just before our 4x4 club ride on Saturday.

Thanks,

Al


ETA: Trailer pics now up: My Trailer pics

Thanks,

Al

[tta583]

Good looking trailer...one day I need to get one with flip down ramps!!

On the lighting...I would just wait till its needs attention. You sound like I in that you like things just right...solder and heat shrink your connections for example... Sort of do it right the first time, make it last for the long haul (no pun intended). When I have to redo one, say the tail lights are busted up or corroded, I like to run the dedicated grounds, well, "just becasue". I never was a fan of grouding to the frame, even in a car. At least in a car most of the grounds are or can easily be semi-covered. Is it just me or do trailers, in general, seem to like to rust? Seems like they (no one, anywhere) never prime the frames. Most sit more than they move which is hard on them. No vibrations to get the rain water out I guess. The last one I had to re-light/re-wire was becasue of rust and corrosrion killing the ground connections and rotting wires. Odd how a car twice the age and God knows how much more the use is much better off in terms of wear in the wiring.

BTW, Speaking of water, corrosion, and rust. May I suggest a small invetment in a tarp for your new toy? I keep both of mine covered. Due to the odd size (rectagle vs a typical square tarp) I get a gromet kit, cut to fit and add gromets as needed. Lace back and fourth under the deck with a long rope and away you go. I lay a couple of old 2x4's just inside the fenders for weight to help keep the wind out. I also like to over the wheels. Odd what the sun will do to them just sitting there. Harbor Freight has canvas RV wheel covers for a reasonable price. Worth a look.

Good Luck!!

[scott2006]

Ditto. Welcome to my world.

I get "check Trailer" warning with the AUDIBLE Ding. Which means wiring disconnet error/warning. GOOD LUCK ON FIXING IT. I ran 10awg ground and brake wire directly to the wheel hub only stopping to attach the ground to the trailer chassis. This advice coming from reading another post on here. I also, bought another connector that the trailer wiring mounts to and then plugs directly into the Ford connector( i.e. extra conversion plug eliminated, 7-to-7 now). SO, WHAT I WANT TO SEE IS A WIRING DIAGRAM FROM FORD TELLING US (the general public) THE CORRECT WAY TO WIRE A TAILER TO WORK WITH THEIR SYSTEM. Then, once that fails then Ford should fix the problem for us.

Further more, as I drive 65mph down the road and get this warning via a ding, dash display, and fancy red flashing trailer light I take notice of it the FIRST time. Now, after about the 20th time I'm still driving 65mph and to my knowledge no one in the vehicle has hung over the truck bed and disconnected/reconnected the cable. Furthermore, each time I can hit the manual override and feel the trailer brake grab. Hum, so why the repeated NOTIFICATION? Guess it is that smart controller at work I hear so much about. Next time I pull a Space Shuttle I'll hook my Ford up to it, until then I'll pull my trailer with my Chevy.

================

SO, WHAT I WANT TO SEE IS A WIRING DIAGRAM FROM FORD TELLING US (the general public) THE CORRECT WAY TO WIRE A TAILER TO WORK WITH THEIR SYSTEM.

================

[StuartV]

That's exactly what mine was doing. See my earlier post in this thread about getting it fixed. It works fine now. I just towed my trailer on a 700-mile round trip with not a single DING or red trailer light flash on the controller.

[FTG-05]

Well, that was a lot of fun! Bad thunderstorms in North Alabama (thanks MS!!) and despite getting home from work early, I dodged the rain trying to rewire my trailer brakes. Got one whole wheel done (out of four).

One perplexity: Brakes wires going into the brakes are both green colored. While I kept the same polarity when I rewired it, I have no idea if the manufacturer did it right: I couldn't get the brake drum off. I assumed it would come off just like a truck brake drum, but it looks like you have take the bearing nut off first.

I cut out all the little snap connectors mentioned by TTA563 above and resoldered the connections, then covered with tape and then wire looms and then covered that with tape also.

Since our 4x4 ride was canceled for tomorrow due to all the rain, I won't know until later if what I did worked or not.

I can tell you that I measured the resistance before and after at the trailer connector for the brake power and ground and it was the same. I also measured the one wheel I was able to work on and it measured the same alos (i.e. a very low number).

Comments?

Thanks,

Al

[Texascadillac42]

Yep, it is common to have to take the hub nut off to get the brake drum off. If you get the other 3 wheels done, you know the problem wont be with the trailer for sure. Best way to find out if it works is to load her up and take her for a test ride, good luck with it.