I am about to purchase an early 70's cab over camper. It comes with the bed mounts, but they are the kind that slip into the four corners of the bed. Are these mounts ok or should I buy a new set?
I assume you are talking about the kind that go into the stake pockets? They will ruin the pockets and do not do much to hold the camper. Get the frame mount type like what Tork Lift and others make and use some good spring loaded hold downs. I used the stake pocket type on my old truck and it did was not pretty [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bleh.gif[/img]. The frame type hold very well and the extentions slide out when not in use so there is nothing to snag things on when the camper is not in use.
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2004 F350 Lariat CC LB FX4 Auto, camper package, superhitch, rear susp air bags, Rancho 9000 shocks, 800W/1600W 115v power converter, Ultralite gauges in overhead 4 gauge pod, 04/04 build and engine Reman shortblock at 34,000 Due to oil leaks, MBRP turbo back, SCT extreme street by ID
10.5' camper, 20.5" Bayliner Cuddy 5.0 V8
1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
I wouldn't use them for the problems mentioned above. I use the happi-jac's and have been pleased. Some like them, some don't, but on a 70's camper due to the wood rails you'll rip the mounting eyes out of the camper before you tear up a truck bed with the happi-jac's.
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1995 F350 Crew Cab, 4X4, Auto. 245,000 miles down, 155,000 to go!
I used the bed mount style. They bolt on between the cab adn bed. They stick out and you can use a spring loaded turbuckle to tighten it down. The rear of camper has mounts that go on the bumber corners. Worked really well.
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99.5 F250 XLT xtra cab, warn hubs,lift gate, level kit, 315's , Delo 400 , home made tymar, a dent in every piece of sheet metal
When you get it on the truck make sure their is like 2 inches or more between the cab of the truck to the camper. Truck cabs are a little tall from the older trucks.
I put on a 9'6 1975 Coachman on my truck for a few weeks. When I took it off I notice lines on the roof of the cab on the truck. I guess at times the camper rubed the truck roof. I ended up puting a sheet of 3/4" plywood between the camper and the bed.
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2000 F-250 XLT, Ext Cab, 4x4, Auto, 3.73
Triple A-pillar w/Phantom AutoMeter Gauges, ZooDad W/6637 mod, Dp Tuner-80 hp Economy, Airlift Airbags, Home made bug guard, 4" MBRP turbo back exhaust & Tru-cool. Leer 100LE Shell
YES check carefully, I added 2" and my 1992 Reallite? is only 1" above the roof and when things get rough it will still touch, It will take 3" of riser to make it good.
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2004 F350 Lariat CC LB FX4 Auto, camper package, superhitch, rear susp air bags, Rancho 9000 shocks, 800W/1600W 115v power converter, Ultralite gauges in overhead 4 gauge pod, 04/04 build and engine Reman shortblock at 34,000 Due to oil leaks, MBRP turbo back, SCT extreme street by ID
10.5' camper, 20.5" Bayliner Cuddy 5.0 V8
1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
i almost bought a 2004 6.0 but when i placed my 1999 lance on it..
it was within an inch of hitting the marker lights. Not to mention the truck squatted like 4 inches, even though it was a dually.
so i opted not to buy it.
later i got the 1999.5 that i have now. for about 10k less too and it had almost the same mileage.
i placed ride rights under this truck already. wanted to install the dual swing mirrors. Since i thought about it i already tore both mirrors off backing into the garage. Both times was was watching a kid or a dog being sure i didnt drive over them instead of watching my mirrors.
so new mirrors. front air bags. and install my happy jacks. buy some new load E tires i should be ready to go then.
=)
Striker
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1999 1/2 F350 SUPER cab 8 foot bed with rubber mat. heated dual swing mirror mod. AIS air filter. Rancho 9000x (4)-in cab controller, Firestone air bags all-around. Hellwig rear sway bar. Boost/pyro/tranny temp gauges. Soon 6.0l tranny cooler. Happi-jacs for camper.
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