Alright, bought the truck in January and the P.B.R. guy I bought it from said that since he had the Gooseneck installed he never took out the ball. It has the inside the fender release which I tried many times while a friend would pull the ball in the bed. So after that didn't work I took out the center part of the gooseneck(under bed part) with the ball still in it. Well after two weeks of spraying it with liquid wrench and banging the hell out of it, nothing.
Could it not be coming out due to rust? Or is it from where it might have got bent?
Any ideas? I don't know what brand it is.
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2001 F250 Ext Cab, Long Bed, 4x4, 6spd, Evo,Banks Exhaust, AFE Stage II, Dual A-pillar with boost and pyro. Inline Coolant Filter, 203 T-stat.
Look at the square part were the ball is, is the pin moving It should have a hole in the other side small punch to pop the latch the cotter key were real bad about braking.the catch were spring loaded so it looks like you are reliecing it but it was not.
Yeah, those balls are bad about rusting in place. I've had the same problem with mine. Even though I remove it from time to time, I've had to take a hammer to it before to get it out.
When you do get it out clean the socket with emery paper or better yet a die gringer with a small wire brush. Clean the ball shaft well and grease the heck out of it when you put it back in.
On Edit....I missed the part about where it got bent. What is bent? Depending on what is bent you may be wasting your time working on it and it may need to be replaced.
Usually to get mine out when it's just stuck from rust. I spray penetrating oil on it and give a few good raps on the sides of the ball with a heavy hammer. I can work it out of the socket after that.
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03 F250 SD PSD Lariat 7.3, FX4 Crew Cab Short Box, 3.73 Gears, Auto Tranny, Jody Tipton 80 HP Econo Tune, Turbo Back 4" Exhaust W/5" Tip, Home Made Tymar, Isspro Gauges, T/C Lock Up Switch, 203 Degree Thermostat, Coolant Filter, Upgraded Headlight Wiring Harness, Diode Mod for Dims, Bilstein Shocks, Kenwood Head Unit, Sirius Radio, Valentine 1
Heat the metal with a torch (not the ball). The heated metal will expand and then knock the ball out with a hammer.
I use that trick on the farm all of the time to get rusted bolts out of mower blades, etc.
If needed, you can also cool the ball with freon and make it shrink
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2005 F250SD Regular Cab,Red Clearcoat, 4wd, ESOF, Power Stroke, TorqShift Auto,3.73LS, 17" aluminum wheels, Tow Command,FX4 Offroad, Camper Pk, B&W turnover hitch,CDI toolbox, SUPERCHIPS FLASHPAQ
2003 John Deere 6220 ComfortGard Cab, 90hp(72 PTO hp) 16/16 PowerQuad
2005 John Deere 6220 ComfortGard Cab, MFWD,PowerQuad,left-hand shuttle shift & 640 front end loader
We had the same hitchball on a GMC HD,we let it sit in there a little while after hauling,and we NEVER could get it out again.The clearance is so tight,and we live off road,so any grit at all will really mess them up.He hated his and when he traded trucks,he then got a Popover ball installed.It just flips up/down with a spring loaded latch,you don't pull the ball out at all.He said he'd never have another one of the hidden hitches again.They can be a real pain. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bleh.gif[/img]
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