Charging Schematic? - Diesel Forum

Sabre2th · 08-23-2006, 08:56 PM

Hi,
I'm getting ready to install a 10,000lb winch w/battery on my flatbed gooseneck, and was wondering where I might find a schematic to set this up to charge from my trailer wiring without drawing on the truck batteries while using the winch. Anybody know of a good source/design?
Thanks,
[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]Tom in MO

Sabre2th · 08-24-2006, 01:12 PM

OK, after reading some of the other recent posts, I'm getting the impression that all I have to do is hook the positive side of my trailer battery to the center of my trailer plug and all is well as long as I don't use the winch with the ignition on? Any recommendations? Thanks!
Tom in MO

Acetcruiser · 08-24-2006, 03:06 PM

i don't think its the center pin.....google wire dagram for a 7 wire trailer plug....usually the center one is for back up lights

Sapps · 08-24-2006, 03:49 PM

Its pin #4 (12 Volt charge power) on the 7 way rv plug. The 12 volt pin#4 is a keyed on hot only.

Hook that to your + on your battery and it should stay charged up..... depending on load and charge time from your truck while rolling down the road.

Scroll down to the bottom of this page for the wiring diagrams

http://www.crbrophy.com/elec.html

Sabre2th · 08-24-2006, 04:30 PM

Thanks!
I'm using the 6-way, so it looks like the center pin?
Tom

Acetcruiser · 08-24-2006, 07:32 PM

I would say so from that link but i've never used a 6 pin set-up

artkelly · 08-24-2006, 11:19 PM

You may not be happy with how little current the trailer charge line puts back into your winch battery.

I power my TT from an inverter in my camper. With the regular charge line, it would take driving all day [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img] to recover the two Trojan T-105 house batteries (read "winch battery") from a discharge to 11 volts. The charge line supplies less than 10 amps, IIRC.

I changed to an Avalanche Diode battery isolator <font color="blue"> (For Example) </font>, and now at 11 volts, I get 80 amps (limited by the wire size as recommended by HT) to the house battery when it's down to 11 volts.

Try the trailer charge line first to see how you like it, but do look at the Hellroaring web site. There are other avalanche diode isolators. I liked all the tech stuff on the HT website. (I use the <font color="red"> RV Starting Battery Isolation </font> configuration.)

I've done it direct [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img], with conventional diode isolator [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bleh.gif[/img], and with avalanche diode isolator [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]. Avalanche is the best of those choices, hands down.

There's a pic in my mod photos in sig.

Let us know how you make out.

Art

Sabre2th · 08-24-2006, 11:34 PM

Thanks for all the info! Probably be a week or so before I get it all set up. Thanks again.
Tom in MO

CPSS · 08-29-2006, 12:06 PM

The standard trailer tow package supplies up to 30 amps thru the charge circuit provided you have the TT relays and fuses installed, when ever the truck is running.

artkelly · 09-27-2006, 08:15 PM

Sorry I took so long to get back to the thread, [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img], I'm on the road.

I think the stock charge line only provides the max current when the engine battery is calling for high charge. Apparently when the engine battery is charged, the excitation to the alternator drops off, and the trailer current goes down.

I've done it both ways with the exact same (Trojan T-605) batteries. When discharged to 11 volts, I drove all day and the trailer (camper, in this case) batteries never got much above 12 volts with the engine running. Not good, because it was cold and I couldn't use the furnace after the first night.

When I put in the avalanche-diode isolator (configured with the alternator going to the camper batteries first--see This), the camper batteries charged at 80 amps until they reached the switching voltage for the isolator (13.4 VDC is the standard setting, but you can specify an external sense resistor and set it where you want it). See This, scroll down to the BIC 75150 features.

At the switch point the engine and camper batteries are connected together by the diodes. The voltage drop to the engine battery is only a few millivolts--much less than simple diode-isolator circuits.

I stress that it was the same truck, alternator, engine batteries, and camper batteries in both cases. I should also point out that there are other good suppliers of avalanche-diode isolators, as well as one that was sorta snotty when I talked to them. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/vomit.gif[/img]

My 2 cents.

Art