Been looking at "real" class V hitches. Anyone have any preferences on what brand makes the best? Seems that it is pretty much Reese-Draw Tite with 2.5" receiver, and then Putnam makes a 2" setup. How do they get the added capacity and stay smaller?
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1996 F250 4x4 ext. cab, long bed 5 spd. 3.55ls, Tymar Intake, Tymar 4" downpipe and 4" exhaust. AIC, B&W turnoverball, EBPV brake, tranny temp gauge, boost gauge, and egt gauge. 235k miles and thousands of $$$$ in maintenance and repairs.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NickKent</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> How do they get the added capacity and stay smaller? </div></div>The XDR has heavier thicker steel components overall. Hard to see from the pictures but very noticeable when mounting (two people would have been nice).
The end position of the receiver tube sets higher, closer in, tucks up under the bumper more and extends less than others do. When you're standing from behind, the main tube is not visible, only the end of the receiver tube, very clean looks.
For this reason, as a replacement/upgrade, you may need to change the drop on your existing ball mount for a level ride since the XDR sets higher.
I didn’t want to have to buy all new ball mounts with the 2.5” Reese but wound up changing some anyway.[img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whistle.gif[/img]
I talked to Putnam, and they will be coming out with a weight distributing setup for that hitch sometime in February. guy said it was similar setup to the Equilizer hitches. Not sure how keen I am on installing a brand new hitch on my old truck. I never know what is going to happen with my truck nowadays.
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1996 F250 4x4 ext. cab, long bed 5 spd. 3.55ls, Tymar Intake, Tymar 4" downpipe and 4" exhaust. AIC, B&W turnoverball, EBPV brake, tranny temp gauge, boost gauge, and egt gauge. 235k miles and thousands of $$$$ in maintenance and repairs.
I put a Putnam on My '96 just over a year ago. Only down side is I can't fit My spare tire under the rear fuel tank anymore. I also found a place that offers a 15,000# or 16,000# solid forged alloy steel 2" reciever drawbar with the matching 2-5/16" ball.
Only suggestion I was given by a trailer sales shop that installs Putman hitches is to buy better hardware than what they include.
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Denny
'96 F-250 Reg. Cab 4X4 5-sp POWERSTROKE
294,000 mi & NO Problems, LUK Clutch, and the Cat is buried in the back yard!
idr what i have but its got 1/2 in square tube for the supports and the large tube the reciver its self is 1/4 and its a high strength carbon steel then i have it welded to the frame and bolted with grade 11 bolts
finally it is gusseted to the frame
this was setup like this from a factory thing ( hitch manufracture)
its rated like this for 2k hitch weight and a 23000 lbs trailer
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
You can't fit your tire up underneath anymore [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif[/img] What's the point. I don't have space to carry it any place else.
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1996 F250 4x4 ext. cab, long bed 5 spd. 3.55ls, Tymar Intake, Tymar 4" downpipe and 4" exhaust. AIC, B&W turnoverball, EBPV brake, tranny temp gauge, boost gauge, and egt gauge. 235k miles and thousands of $$$$ in maintenance and repairs.
My question is why they don't sell trucks with either a decent hitch or no hitch? (like they used to)
I bought a one ton (02 PSD Ex cab) and it has a 2" receiver rated at 12,500 lbs. I would stick with the half ton gas and never consider a dsl if I was only going to pull empty stuff. Then the hitch (what the ball is mounted on) is only 6000lbs/600 lbs tongue weight.
So buying a Brute II hitch (likely) that they have also (derated) it USED to be 30k lbs 3k drawbar weight. Now its 20k/2k.. Yep I lose the spare tire spot. BUT I KNOW the trailer will stay hooked.
What bothers me is I can't use my truck to near the level of my half ton due to wimpy hitch. (I will be actually over BRutes new numbers ;( ) But because of stupid folks who can't drive/drive with load as if they are driving a sports car everything is derated. ;(
I have been known to leave spare tire at home. (don't like) and have considered a front mount tire rack....
You can't fit your tire up underneath anymore [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif[/img] What's the point. I don't have space to carry it any place else.
The "POINT" is to be able to pull a 10,000# - 12,000# trailer? If I wanted to relocated (Drill) holes forward from the punched holes on the lower flange of the frame rail the spare tire carrier attaches to I could move the whole tire & carrier forward the inch or two required to replace it up under the bumper & reciever under the rear fuel tank. But it was a PITA to remove & reinstall before without the receiver and I know it'd be worse now.
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Denny
'96 F-250 Reg. Cab 4X4 5-sp POWERSTROKE
294,000 mi & NO Problems, LUK Clutch, and the Cat is buried in the back yard!
Love my Reese TOW BEAST, works great pulling my compact track loader with the trailer is about 12,000 pounds.Cheap insurance then relying on the stock hitch to fail.
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