I have a set. 1 7/8 and 2". Find little use for the 1 7/8 now a days. But use the 2" all the time. Held up nicely. Have used em for years now.
I do not however use them on the TT big ball. I have a dedicated solid ball for that thing. On its own class five reciever with the tow bar brakets built into that one. So I would only get the smaller set like mine for your Lawn trailers and smaller stuff. No need to get a big ball third one I would think.
__________________
2001 F-350 SuperCrewzer, Crew Cab Dualy LB XLT, 7.3L PSD, 4.10 LS, Oxford White w/ Silver lower tone, Med Grey interior, Power 40/20/40, Auto w/ Dacco Super Hauler TC and Magnafine, Towing Pkg w/ Dual Alts, Ford AIC, Prodigy, Gentex Mirror, Cobra 29WXNWST, 5ft Firestik II, X Monitor, Baldwin Coolant Filter, Sony OH Video system, Yakima Racks and basket, 45 gal auxiliary tank and 12V Pump, Towing a 26 Foot Prowler Lite.
I need the 2 5/16 for a dump trailer (not huge maybe 8 - 10 ft?) I occasionally borrow and maybe a concession food trailer. Do you think the strength is suspect at that point?
I've had no problems with mine. Use the 2 5/16" to pull a bumper pull skidloader trailer mostly. The convert-a-ball was rated higher (10,000 lbs) than all of the solid shank balls that they had at Fleet Farm when I picked it up.
__________________ Josh
1996 Ford F350 CC LWB 4x4 SRW 5Spd PSD. Tymar intake, DPP Downpipe. 1983 JD 850 Compact Tractor
I suppose I am overly cautious about. Sounds like its working fine for some.
But since I have a larger Reciever that special for just that Travel Trailer and its Load Leveler brackets... it seemed prudent to just dedicate a ball to it. That was more the reason than anything.
But my little Bar has one and seemed prudent to make that one as versatile as possible. And being smaller and lighter its easier to stuff in the Tool box. So no need for the big ball on that one cause if ever the need were to pull something with a bigger ball... well... I already got a bar rigged up for that. Dedicated to that size. Bigger solid bar too.
So just make sure if you want the big ball aplication... that your bar is rated high enough and you get the 1" shank to get the 1ok rating everyhwere. No weak link. The reciever bar nor the shank should be under the largest thing your going for.
I like my Quickdraw. It has all three ball sizes, a 10,000lb rating and it folds up under itself. And it is adjustable for different trailer heights. I'll use it to pull my TT short distances.
__________________
2002 Ford F-250, 4WD, Line X, Gaylord Fiberglass Lid, Uniden CB, Billet antenna, Ventvisors Truck Pictures
12/03/02 Oil Leak Fixed 7,776 miles
01/02/03 Dead Alternator 8,789 miles
05/24/04 Pwr Steer Hose & Blink Air Bag 35,450
06/03/04 Blink air Bag, No Cruise
01/24/05 Crankshaft Seal 50,424
07/07/06 Pwr Steer Hose 78,764 miles
7/24/07 Drag Link 93,000
08/31/07 Rebuilt Tranny 95,000
11/26/07 Leaking Tranny fluid 99,500
106,000 troublesome miles
If thats the one I am thinking of its a solid bar too is it not? So its suitable for the nice big tow rating.
I prefer a light bar for my normal around the house yard trailer hitching up. A hollow 5 -6 K one with the convertaball set up is my normal set up for this kind of thing. for one thing I need and use a 6 inch drop on those trailers. To stay level. Otherwise I find the 12 foot mesh utility trailer will drag its rear end on me in some situations.
Then I only use the heavy solid bar 10K plus one for the camper and use its bigger ball. And it does not need any drop of any kind in my case to stay level. It does however need the spring bar brackets in place for high speed highway runs. And those are built into this bar. Not that it could not be used without them. I have for short distances used it. And I suppose you could tow a heavy equipment trailer with it. I have in fact used it for a Car Hauler flat bed trailer once or twice. Without using the load bars. But I actualy mounted a gravel brush to this reciever. To keep the rocks off the trailer. So its heavy and bulky. And it doesn't lend itself to everyday light duty use as it is. Works wonderfully well for its intended purpose though.
I just don't find one single particular receiver bar to fit all my needs. Two set ups seems to do it with what I pull and the variations of those things. But thats just me...
I may end up having to do the same thing as far as a couple of setups. I was trying ot avoid this, but the trailers seem to have different heights, so two setups may be cheaper than a variable height / multiple hitch ball setup. Thanks for all the input. I wonder what people did before message boards... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
I have 2 sets,One is mounted on a 2" reciever hitch and the other is mounted on bumper of work truck. I do have an old boat trailer with the 1 7/8 hitch,but most everything now is 2".I pull a 16'trailer with tractor and equipment with the 2 5/16 and it works great.Just tap out the pin and trade ball sizes. kinda pricey,but well worth it in the long run.
__________________
Early 99 Dually Crew, 373 gear,AT,DiPricol pyro,tranny and boost guage,EBPV Mod,TC Lock Mod....Whats next?
I realize this reply maybe a little late. Just had to offer a suggestion.
Take a look at the link. This is what we sell in my store. Best of all worlds for us. Height adjustable, good load ratings, easy to use, great looks, has three different ball combos available.
__________________
2003 F-250 Crew Cab, FX4, Lariat, True Blue, Short Bed, 3:73 gears, Tow Package. Extang RT Bed Cover. Arma Coatings Spray on Bedliner. Remote Start. Stull painted to match grill shell with billet insert. Husky liners. AFE intake. Amp and Subs.
Another late reply guys, but If you do very consistent towing the convert-a-ball is not the way too go. I found that the pin loosened on the ball itself, and actually came out on the highway with no trailer in tow. The next time I hooked up the trailer the ball was still on the shank, but there was no pin (which I did not know). Yep you guessed it the trailer popped off the truck several miles down the road, and you can only imagine the look on my face when I saw the shank on the truck, and the ball still in the trailer. This was in a rural area -- no possiblility of theft of the pin. Needless to say I immediatly purchased a reciever that had 3 ball sizes welded to it. Probably wouldnt be an issue if you didnt tow very often as the pin would not have time to wear out, but for me It became a big safety issue.
__________________
Current 2002 F-250 Crew Cab SB 7.3 Auto 4x4 White FX4 131k
2000 F-250 7.3 Auto Shorty Extended Cab 4x4. Bought brand Spankin new. Zoodad, Hypertech tuner, straightpipe. Sold @ 69k miles. Bought New in 2000 sold 07/03 to get a 2003 Crew Cab. Needed room for the baby.
03 F-250 Crew Shorty Torqueshift 4x4. Bought 05/03 brand spankin new, Traded in 10/06 As of 10/06 111k Tuned by Innovative, Mbrb Turbo back with extra whistle, Airraid intake, Guages. **Update** 10/06 Oil cooler sprung a leak and caused the entire cooling system to fill with oily water. Dealer quote -- 4900.00. Injectors were missing on cold start sometimes took as long as 5-10mins. for them all to start firing. Come on ford! Traded truck in one week later for 2007 Dmax/Allison LBZ
2007 Silverado Classic Duramax LBZ. Bought brand spankin new. 6 speed ally, crew, Longbed, 4x4 charcoal grey. Stock for reliablity. Sold (Crew Cab Long Bed is impossible to drive in town, and missed the fords. 7.3 here i come)
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.