It is not a difficult conversion, simple bolt on.
Including the Elec/Hydraulic Actuator you can figure about $1000 an axle but check with Mor/Ryde, they seem to be decent with service and prices. http://www.morryde.com/php/products/trailer_brakes.php
Dexter claims that modern brake controllers will work with their systems. Older units probably not, at least not correctly. Brakesmart controllers definitely work with hydraulic brakes.
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99.5 F350 Dually, AFE Intake, Garrett Turbo, Banks Exhaust Brake, BTS Transmission, Bully Dog chip, Isspro Turbo minder, Air Lift air bags, Bilstein shocks
I did the conversion on my 5th wheel. The conversion takes some basics skills. If you have done a disk brake job on car or truck you can most likely do the conversion your self. I spent a weekend doing the conversion on my trailer. It does use an electrical brake controller. Make sure the controller I compatible with the electric hydraulic actuator. Not all are. The disk brake conversion cost about $1600 for 6000lb axles.
The conversion involves:
Removing the drums and backing plate
Mounting the disk brake bracket
Mount the new disk with bearing and seal. Mine required a bearing size change.
Mount the new caliper on the bracket. My needed grooming as the axle backing plates were not perfectly parallel.
Locate and mount the electric hydraulic actuator. I built a mounting bracket and mounted in the basement of the trailer.
Determine how you want to run the tubing. I have rubber suspension so I have flexible brake hoes to each wheel. I laid it out so the distance to each wheel on the axle was the same. It turned out to be kind of like a star. Go get the tubing and fittings to what you laid out. I also build some bracket to attach the flexible brake hose to belly of the trailer.
Install and connect the tubing the how you laid it out. Use a good tubing bending device so you don’t kink the tubing.
Install the new break-a-way switch and wire it to the actuator.
Connect the power to the actuator. This required running some number 4 gage wire from the battery to the actuator. You run both positive and negative wiring.
Connect the trailer wiring harness Battery, ground and brake signal to the actuator. I replace the trailer wiring harness with larger wiring.
I love my electric hydraulic disk brake. I would do it again in a heartbeat. Between the disk brakes and the BrakeSmart controller, it the best money I have spent.
If you have any question PM me. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]
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1989 F250 4X2 Super Cab 7.3 idi Sidewinder Banks Turbo and exhaust system 5 speed 4.10 gears, US Gear Diesel Exhaust Brake, Fuel Transfer Main Tank
Electric-hydraulic has a momentary lag while the motor turns the screw that actuates the master-cylinder.
At least that has been my experience.
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Modern actuators like the Dexter have an electric motor with solid state electronics driving a hydraulic pump. No screws, no master cylinder. Take a look at them on Dexters website at: http://www.dexteraxle.com/electro_hydraulic_actuators
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99.5 F350 Dually, AFE Intake, Garrett Turbo, Banks Exhaust Brake, BTS Transmission, Bully Dog chip, Isspro Turbo minder, Air Lift air bags, Bilstein shocks
I didn’t see the response time of the actuator, do you know what it is? For me that was an important factor in the braking response and for choosing an actuator. The faster the response the faster the brakes come on. The one I got was able to product the 1600psi in 300msec. At 60mph, that works out to 26 feet to develop max braking pressure. I know it works as I have inadvertently locked up that trailer brakes when I have stomped on the brake pedal to hard. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
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1989 F250 4X2 Super Cab 7.3 idi Sidewinder Banks Turbo and exhaust system 5 speed 4.10 gears, US Gear Diesel Exhaust Brake, Fuel Transfer Main Tank
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I have a horse trailer with 7000lbs dexter axles and was considering a disc brake conversion. What is involved??
Does it still use the electric brake controller? or is it a different system on the truck
what kind of money are we talking about??
mrsmith
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Call dexter amd get the axle kit. and the electralic controller 1000 for drum and 1600 for disk. make sure you use a battery larger than a brakeaway battery. Some on this site have argued with me on this an most have lost. it takes a battery close to the activator to work properly. something as small as a 380 lawn mower battery works great. If you have any questions pm me and I can walk you threw the prosses.
As for actuation times Dexter doesn't have it on their site but you could call them. They have very good customer service and when I had a problem they had an engineer on the phone right away to answer my question. The only thing I found which may do with actuation is that they comply with Federal Braking standards. Quoting them: "Meets all DOT regulations and complies with CFR-393 federal braking requirements". http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regul...csr/393.52.htm has the standards for braking performance.
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99.5 F350 Dually, AFE Intake, Garrett Turbo, Banks Exhaust Brake, BTS Transmission, Bully Dog chip, Isspro Turbo minder, Air Lift air bags, Bilstein shocks
I have used the MasterBrake Elecdraulic actuator (screw-jack type as you describe) with a regular inertial controller, and indeed the lag time was terrible. However, once the BrakeSmart controller came along, I get trailer brakes with absolutely NO perceptable lag in application time (faster than a vacuum-boosted car to my feel, and I can assure you, a LOT faster than the time it takes to change pressure in a vacuum trailer system.
Another thing to consider: How you intend to go ABS with vac/hyd? Both elctric/hydraulic with mechanical actuator and hydraulic pump actuator can go full ABS. In fact, the hydraulic actuators are essentially an ABS pump that uses electronic signals to produce braking pressure.
You need to drive some current stuff. It is a lot more advanced and responsive than vac/hydraulic, air or air/hydraulic.
Pat
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2000 F450 Lariat 4x4 tractor, Air Dog, Reg Mod, HX, bypass filter, Banks Power Elbow w/3.5 dp, no intake heat, CCV mod, AIS (w/extra hole), DI stage IIs, GP indicator LED, custom 4" exhaust, 4" USG exhaust brake, USG 0.8555 aux. trans. (shift switch in knob), custom air susp., custom alum. rear diff cover extension (dipstick & temp), Detroit locker, ESPAR D5 aux. heat, custom alum tow deck and fuel tanks, Bushwacker 1 1/2" flares, 9k winch, gin poles, Bi-Xenon in '03 Crystals, Lightforce Striker 170 (still Halogen, but VERY bright), Hella Micro DE HID fogs, KW (Isspro) instruments, more to come & lots of other diesels
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