anyone have experience on their 5th wheel with disc trailer brakes and the Ford built in brake controller.
I understand there is a potnetial compatibility issure. Have a deposit on an F450 and likely ordering a Carri-lite. May opt for disc brakes but need to insure they work with Ford.
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2008 F450 CC Lariat White/Gold, JAD Solutions Lights, 62 Gal Titan, B&W Hitch, Ford Gold Remote Start, TruckTrunk box, Viair 550+2x2.5gal receiver
It may work, but probably not correctly. The potential issue is a delay in braking action, possibly also not linear in nature. Your best bet is install an aftermarket brake controller compatible with electric over hydraulic disc brakes and wire it to it's own plug.
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08 F250 CC SRW SWB 4x4 6.4L PSD
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: guardrail22</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I heard there is an adaptor??? </div></div>Depends on the hydraulic pump being used. Check with the supplier.
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2002 F350 Lariat CC 4x4 Auto 4.10 DRW, DP-Tuner F5 live tuned stock, quiet, 40dd, 40, 60, 80 tow, 80e and 120r, B&W GN, BrakeSmart, 'pooned tank, tank and pre-pump mods, 2µ Dahl 100 filter, regulated return, BTS dual HPOP, AC singles with EDM 34 lpm nozzles, AIS, H2e, Spearco 6.0 IC, Hypermax 3.5" dp--> MBRP 4" 304SS exhaust, BTS tranny, 203º T-stat, Chevron ELC, coolant filter, Oilguard bypass with Schaeffer 9000, WranglerNW 200 amp alternator & Optima group 31 batteries, Nippon-Denso starter, SPA gauges, SteveRacer mods, Hella 80/100W 9007s, Hella Micro DE foglights, 1000FF driving lights, 220W backup lights, Stancor contactor, Michelin XPS Traction tires, X-Springs, Bilstein shox, custom bumpers but otherwise stock. Nov 30 '99 build engine with 16 K miles, Fluidampr, Comp Cam 910 springs, Melling LPOP and ARP headstuds. Alien-Patrol Customer Service Sucks!
I have been following this question on several forums. I recently purchased a 08 F350 with the built in controller. I am also in the process of buying a new fif the wheel, either a Carriage or a Hitchhiker. Some people seem to have no problems while other people do. Seems the make of the brakes can make a difference. How difficult is it to install a different controller and where to mount it?
Don
I have Dexter axles with disk brakes on a 2008 toyhauler. My tow weight averages about 19,000 lbs for the hauler. The Factory controller stopped the unit but it was not smooth and there was a problem at very slow speeds, like in a campground, on gravel. Some folks have reported they have not had problems with the controller. I installed a P3 controller to a seperate line in the bed as a solution. I can stop on a dime and its very smooth. Just my experience.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dieselgem</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have Dexter axles with disk brakes on a 2008 toyhauler. My tow weight averages about 19,000 lbs for the hauler. The Factory controller stopped the unit but it was not smooth and there was a problem at very slow speeds, like in a campground, on gravel. Some folks have reported they have not had problems with the controller. I installed a P3 controller to a seperate line in the bed as a solution. I can stop on a dime and its very smooth. Just my experience. </div></div>
I have a Carlisle EOH Disc Brake Controller on a 36TK3 FW with 18.5k GVWR. The Ford ITBC seems to actually apply the brakes very smoothly and stops great at all speeds. My problem which Ford seems not to want to discuss is that I get frequent "Trailer Disconnect" errors on the DIC and the TIBC sometimes displays red error indication.
Ford's only reply so far is the ITBC has been verified with electric drum brakes only. No comment on safety or functionality of ITBC when used with EOH Disc Brakes.
Ford has yet to provide any documentation on how to tow safely with EOH Disc Brakes on the 2008 F450 using either the ITBC or after market Brake Controller. I have specifically request something in writing from Ford, but of course have not gotten any response other than ITBC has been verified to work with Electric Drum Brakes.
__________________ 2008 F450 Lariat Crew Cab 4x4
Shadow Grey w/Black Accent, Medium Stone Interior
TorqShift, 4.30 Gears
Job1 14,500 GVWR - 29,000 GCWR
Reese Signature 24K, Line-X, Trucks USA Roll Cover, Leer 100XQ Topper 2007 DoubleTree 36TK3 Mobile Suite
18.5k GVWR 2007 Mirage Enclosed Cargo Trailer
7.0k GVWR
The Factory controller is made by Tekonsha which is the same folks that make the P3 and the Prodigy brake controller. I was told that the Ford controller was manufactured to Ford Specs. I would be interested to see Fords response to you.
I had the same problem with the Trailer fault intermittantly. I added a 10awg wire between the axles and the truck, connected it to the ground wire in the harness, then drilled a hole and bolted the wire to the frame, no more trailer faults at all. 90% of trailer electrical problems are due to bad ground somewhere.
I have never seen a trailer that used the ground wire in plug for brakes only. I always find the wire from plug grounded to trailer chassis and it is usually a wire too small to carry the current for full lights and brakes all working at one time. The flip up ball gooseneck hitches are poor grounds as a back up and fifth wheels with the no lube disc are poor grounds too.
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Don't tell my cattle I got leather seats!
2006 F450 CC Hauler bed 4x2 6.0 L Pstroke/Torqshift, Lariat, 4.88 r/a.
2006 F350 Lariat CC Dually 4X2, 6.0 TQShift 4.10 LS, STOCK.
36 feet on the floor Elite/Outlaw LQ horse trailer. Sooner 6 horse large dressing/ mid tack.
15 horses with good balance from being hauled behind a P'stroke.
That would be incorrect. The two wires feeding electric brakes from the plug are isolated AND much larger gauge than the three used for trailer lighting.
A bad ground on your trailer and the light circuit will look for the next best thing, which is one of the other positive lines in place. This is evident by running lights blinking on and off instead of the high filament in the bulb illuminating when turn signals are applied. Your brake control lines should remain an isolated circuit for this very reason.
Durant, need a little more help with your post. The wire that you added was attached to the trailer frame and the ground wire on the truck harness??? Not the most mechanicaly inclined so be kind.
Don
Donr827: This was done on a trailer that had regular electric brakes. We ground the whole trailer through the plug to the truck and also the negitive terminal on the break away kit. What I did was drill a hole in the frame right in front of the axles and put a 10awg wire there and connected it to the ground in the trailer harness, after doing this I have never had a trailer fault again. Elec over hyd is a different animal, it has its own ground and power wires and they all need to be 10awg, also your booster needs to be as close to the axles as possible, the lines need to be as short as possible also, as to cut down on the delay.
2005 Chev Duramax/Allison 3500LS DRW Crew Cab
2006 Chev 6.0L/4L80e 3500WT DRW Ex-Cab 9'Flat-GN
Linear Mode
