I use my truck to tow my Bronco to the trail. Sway hasn't been much of an issue except when I get caught with a tractor trailer on either side of me. The other day my wife pointed to a hitch on the truck in front of is and asked what it was. So I explained it was for a w/d set up and she said "you should get that" I have a 95 4x4 ext cab and the trailer is a 19'10" overall and loaded it weighs about 7800lbs.
Ford says that any trailer that grosses more than 5,000 pounds should be towed only with a weight-distributing hitch. Most experts agree, with a few raising the limit to 6,000 pounds.
So yes, you need a weight-distributing hitch. And while you're at it, get one with really-good sway control built in.
You can get a "cheap" WD setup with dual sway controls for a few hundred bucks. Reese, Equal-I-Zer, Drawtite, etc. By far the best will cost over $2,000. Hensley Arrow or Pulliam Pullrite.
If I were going to tow a tag trailer that grossed more than 5,000 pounds, I would insist on a Hensley Arrow. Yes, they are expensive, but I've had experience with swaying trailers, and I don't want to ever experience that again: www.nosway.com
__________________
My Sierra Blanca is a '99.5 PSD CrewCab hot-rod Towing Machine! BTS tranny; TurboRamAir intake and 4" stainless turbo-back exhaust; DP-Tuner tunes flashed into an Edge Evolution tuner; ISSPRO EV gauges and TTM; AIC; SP-Diesel exhaust brake and torque converter controller. I special-ordered it new and plan to drive it until it quits.
Reese says that it is not recommended to use sway control with a trailer brake system..........did I read this wrong? Also, I am buying a 24' Pace race trailer.......and plan to max tow at a little less then 10'000........so obviously I need weight distribution for my Class V on my X.......any recommendation to not break the bank $$ too much... I have a 7 inch lift on 37's so I am looking for some serious drop too.......
Thanks...
__________________
MotorPsyko http://community.webshots.com/user/motorpsyko
2001 PSD Excursion......
A.K.A "The Short White Bus!"
DP-Tuner 6-POS chip "HOLY S&^T"
AFE Stage II Intake
MBRP 4" Stainless exhaust
8" Deaver Springs all the way around!
Donahoe Racing(DR) remote resevoirs (singles)
Donahoe Racing(DR) steering box kit
Donahoe Racing(DR) adjustable pan-rod bar
PowerStop oversized slotted rotors and Caliper Mod
Weld Racing 17x10 Mountain Crushers wrapped in
BFG 37x13.50x17 A/T's on ARB studs...
U.S. Gear fan clutch mod
AutoMeter Tranny, Boost and EGT guage cluster
They are refering to surge brakes like what is normally found on boat trailers (and U-Hauls) Some sway controls will interfere with their function. Electric brakes are not effected by the movement of the trailer tongue.
__________________
This space intentionally left blank.
[ QUOTE ]
Reese says that it is not recommended to use sway control with a trailer brake system..........did I read this wrong?
[/ QUOTE ]
You read it wrong, and you quoted it wrong. What 444turbodiesel said. They said "surge brakes". I hope your Pace has electric brakes and not surge brakes. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
[ QUOTE ]
Also, I am buying a 24' Pace race trailer.......and plan to max tow at a little less then 10'000........so obviously I need weight distribution for my Class V on my X.......any recommendation to not break the bank $$ too much...
[/ QUOTE ]
My safety and the safety of my sweetheart is more important than my bank account, so if I were needing a good hitch to tow 10,000 pounds I would insist on a Hensley Arrow, or at least a Pulliam PullRite.
But lots of folks are happy with their less-expensive weight-distribution hitches from Reese, DrawTite, Equal-I-Zer, etc. for about one-fourth to one-third the cost of the Hensley.
So if my brother asked me to recommend a WD hitch system with an absolute budget of not more than $1,000, I'd probably say Reese HD trunion-bar hitch with Dual-Cam sway control and matching shank, ball mount, and ball.
[ QUOTE ]
I have a 7 inch lift on 37's so I am looking for some serious drop too.......
[/ QUOTE ]
There are at least 5 parts to a "normal" WD hitch system. So if you buy the Reese noted above, be sure you order all the parts, and be sure they are all rated for 10,000 pounds or more trailer weight.
[*] Receiver you already have[*] Shank (drawbar) ( ~$120 )[*] Ball mount ( inc'd w/the above Reese, but not with some WD hitches )[*] WD hitch ( ~$350 )[*] Sway control ( ~$150 )
The shank is what gives you the rise or drop. And you buy the shank seperate from the other parts. They make (expensive) shanks with some serious drop, but maybe not enough drop for your monster. On the website above, the most you see for ~$120 is 6" drop, but other sources sell shanks that have a bit more drop. But if nobody makes a shank that will fit the Reese hitch and has enough drop for your rig, you'll need to find a welder that can fabricate changes to your receiver to lower it several inches without reducing the strength of the receiver. That probably means some serious quantity of junk iron pinned/bolted/welded onto the back end of your X-Car. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]
5k or more trailer weight, you need weight distribution. Personally, I bump it to 6000 depending on the length of the trailer. YOU need a weight distributing hitch, and when you get one, you will like it.
__________________
1996 F250 4x4 ext. cab, long bed 5 spd. 3.55ls, Tymar Intake, Tymar 4" downpipe and 4" exhaust. AIC, B&W turnoverball, EBPV brake, tranny temp gauge, boost gauge, and egt gauge. 235k miles and thousands of $$$$ in maintenance and repairs.
[ QUOTE ]
What if you are under 5000lbs? Like 4000? Would a weight distribution hitch still be useful?
[/ QUOTE ]
Of course. Reese (and others) sell weight-distributing hitches for hitch weight as light as 350 pounds, which could be a tag trailer grossing less than 3,000 pounds. http://www.reese-hitches.com/weight_...ng_hitches.htm
I've been reading this thread with interest. I pull a New Holland TC55DA on a 26' Cam Superline trailer with a pintal tow hook. The total weight of the combo is about 11K. I have never seen anyone pulling an equipment trailer with sway control etc. Is there some difference between this and a travel trailer -- less cross wind etc? My father used to pull a trael trailer and swore by his sway control. I have never had a problem with the trailer moving around but I certainly don't want to find out the hard way either. Thoughts ? Also these all seem to be set up for balls not pintals. Thanks.
[ QUOTE ]
I pull a New Holland TC55DA on a 26' Cam Superline trailer with a pintal tow hook.
[/ QUOTE ]
I know almost nothing about pintle hook hitches, so I'll just throw this out:
Pintle hook hitches are usually for heavy loads at slow speeds. And often for towing "wagon" style trailers without much hitch weight.
I certainly wouldn't want to tow an RV trailer at 70 MPH with a pintle hook hitch. But I know the big OTR trucks that have "pups" (more than one trailer) usually connect the second and third trailers with a pintle hitch of some sort.
And that's the extent of my knowledge in that area. So someone else will have to respond to that one. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]
Pintle hook hitches are usually for heavy loads at slow speeds. And often for towing "wagon" style trailers without much hitch weight.
I certainly wouldn't want to tow an RV trailer at 70 MPH with a pintle hook hitch. But I know the big OTR trucks that have "pups" (more than one trailer) usually connect the second and third trailers with a pintle hitch of some sort.
[/ QUOTE ]
What's weird about that is that every dump truck I see towing a backhoe etc is using a pintle hook. Most of them are zipping down the highway at normal speeds. I assume they are not going far but nonetheless I have never seen a ball mount on this type of rig.
the reason you don't see ballmounts on those, is they simply aren't strong enough to be used. Most 2 5/16's hitches are rated at a maximum of around 14K, except for house trailer units, I believe are usualy 25K.
The big pintle hitches are rated for 80K.
Pintles work great for what they are designed for. they are stupid simple to hook up, handle alot of weight, and offer great articulation.
The bad part is, people complain the bang around alot with a empty trailer(i never had a problem) and generaly any trailer that uses one, is going to put alot of tongue weight on the tow vehical.
Chances are, if you find a flat deck trailer, with more than 2 axles, or dual tires, its going to have a pintle hitch.
__________________
88' F-350 reg cab, SRW, 4x4.
7.3/ZF5, 4.10's and 33's, rear locker,
banks turbo, 3.5" straight pipe, pump maxed, and advanced 2 degrees.
89' F-150, 351, 435, dual T-cases, rear discs, front electric winch, PTO winch rear, OBA, 40's