I can get some 19.5" wheels cheap, but they are DRW style.
Swapping to DRW rotors on the front should be easy enough... but what's the consensus on running a pair of these wheels on the back outward facing? (I'm thinking of running small ambulance-style flares).
I'm not going for wild capacity... I just want more stability, a brutally tough tire, (I'm always fully loaded) and be able to max out the axle capacity (about 1400# shy now with 16" E rated tires.)
Comments?
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95 F350 Crew 5spd/4.10, SuperChips tuner, solid flywheel, T444E waterpump, 205° stat, Locked F&R, 9.00R16 Michelin XLs
97 E350 SRW cutaway, E4OD/D70/4.10, 19.5s on the rear, deep trans pan, batteries inside, 1800W inverter, manual glowplugs
84 C30 Suburban, 6.2/4-spd, 3.21s
Other rigs I goof around with regularly:
93 F350 4x4, 7.3 IDI turbo, 5spd, 4.10s
90 F250 4x4, 7.3 IDI, 5spd, 3.55s, D60 swap, straight pipe, turned up fuel screw
I'm no expert, but I would think you'd run into some strange and accelerated wheel bearing wear, as the force on the hub would no longer be centered between the bearings.
-RD
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1997 F350 CC DRW E4OD POS webshots
Only if it is not a free floating axle set-up. On full floaters the bearing does not take the weight like a non floater.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RD97</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm no expert, but I would think you'd run into some strange and accelerated wheel bearing wear, as the force on the hub would no longer be centered between the bearings.
-RD </div></div>
Hmmm... but how's that different from the dually kits that use 4-5" spacers?
BTW, this is a D70 full-floater in question.
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95 F350 Crew 5spd/4.10, SuperChips tuner, solid flywheel, T444E waterpump, 205° stat, Locked F&R, 9.00R16 Michelin XLs
97 E350 SRW cutaway, E4OD/D70/4.10, 19.5s on the rear, deep trans pan, batteries inside, 1800W inverter, manual glowplugs
84 C30 Suburban, 6.2/4-spd, 3.21s
Other rigs I goof around with regularly:
93 F350 4x4, 7.3 IDI turbo, 5spd, 4.10s
90 F250 4x4, 7.3 IDI, 5spd, 3.55s, D60 swap, straight pipe, turned up fuel screw
I've never shopped for them, but I would imagine you could get some F rated 16's. Or, for a little more money, go super single 19.5's and use the cheap tires you have access to.
Every set of "F" rated 16" tires I have seen were low speed tires. MAX 45 MPH
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1994 7.3 I.D.I. Navistar 444 CI
ATS Factory TURBO E4OD Red On white Crew Cab DRW 4:10 w/ AUBURN LIMITED SLIP
3" ATS Exhaust and turbo housing, Banks Trans Command, calibrated pump, K&N filter, Gruss style coolant filter, 203K+MI not a lick of trouble with the motor. now on 16th trans. 10 under factory 100K mile warranty
Alpine CVA-7878 XM radio 6cd changer 3 8" phoenix gold subs 75x4 Sony mobile ES gold 4ch amp, Sony 500W 1ch amp MB quart components in Q forms kick panels. 1 farad cap.
Pro car parts jewel cut headlamps and turn signals
APC clear cab markers, suvlights.com harness silverstar bulbs and L.E.D.'s in the fenders. IT's paid for and its MINE!
Family Toys and tools,
00'F350 psd CC Drw 2wd Bright Amber Western Hauler
SOLD 01' Peterbilt 330 4Dr. Texas trucks conversion cAt 350hp
02' Psd Excursion Limited ultimate Estate Green helliwig swaybar 101K miles
1996 fetherlite 4 horse GN, 2003 sooner 6 horse GN with midtack
Using (two) dual wheels does not exert the same leverage on the bearings since the two tires balance the load and center it on the bearing. The exception would be if you run one wheel or another onto a curb etc but you aren't doing that for 10's of thousands of miles.
Using one dual wheel offsets the center of the load out. You might be OK in an empty truck, but since the premise here is to increase the load capacity you would actually be working backwards. The tire capacity would be higher but the axle capacity would be lower.
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1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 95YJman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've never shopped for them, but I would imagine you could get some F rated 16's. Or, for a little more money, go super single 19.5's and use the cheap tires you have access to. </div></div>
I've had some F & G rated 7.50R16s before. They were 3300-3400# rated, but they are no more stable. The sidewalls squirm just like the 10/E's. Also, they cost more than new 19.5 rubber.
The DRW 19.5" wheels are free to me, but I have to pay for the rubber. 19.5" SRW wheels will cost me ~$250 each.
For now, I've found some 265/75R16s with a 3400# rating. I'm going try them on the rear providing they fit in under this bus body.
__________________
95 F350 Crew 5spd/4.10, SuperChips tuner, solid flywheel, T444E waterpump, 205° stat, Locked F&R, 9.00R16 Michelin XLs
97 E350 SRW cutaway, E4OD/D70/4.10, 19.5s on the rear, deep trans pan, batteries inside, 1800W inverter, manual glowplugs
84 C30 Suburban, 6.2/4-spd, 3.21s
Other rigs I goof around with regularly:
93 F350 4x4, 7.3 IDI turbo, 5spd, 4.10s
90 F250 4x4, 7.3 IDI, 5spd, 3.55s, D60 swap, straight pipe, turned up fuel screw
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