F250 2wd with utility box, Gooseneck trailer question..

[1BADF350]

I have a 1999 F250 with the 7.3 in it, I removed the factory bed box and installed a utility truck box on it for servicing carwashes.
These tool boxes sit about 3" higher then the stock bed rail height, Plus it is the square style, doesnt follow the body contour lines, so its a little wider then the body about 2-1/2" per side..My question is I need a 30' to 36'open style trailer with wheels under the bed..Can I install a B/W turnover ball setup like I have on my daully and pull a goose neck with out any trouble? And by trouble I mean interferance with the boxes on each side..Thanks, Chuck

[Roy_Boy]

The best way is to do some careful measuring, and allow for room for operating on uneven ground (backing trailer into low driveway). I have side mount boxes in my standard bed, they are about 1.5" above and 8" in from the rails. With my gooseneck, I can scrape the corners of the boxes if I turn tight(usually backing) on uneven enough ground. I think I have like 3" clearence turned tight on level ground. It really depends on the design of the neck, some companies use a more square front neck (I believe Featherlite is one), and some use a more sloped, lower clearance style. (Like mine in my pictures). You also can cheat a little bit if the neck height is adjustable (most are). Hope this helps.

[OMSK]

I am currently shopping for a gooseneck equipment trailer myself. There is an incredible variety of gooseneck configurations out there. I've seen sloped, straight, and even a few manufacturers advertising an optional "high arch" neck for lifted trucks. If you take the time to measure your bed/clearance dimensions and contact the manufacturer of the trailer you like, I suspect they would be willing to build a gooseneck to accomodate your situation, and probably for not a lot more than the standard neck. Keep in mind that many of these trailers are built to spec when ordered anyway.

Gregg

[durantdiesel]

what you will need to do is measure the "legs" at the back of the neck see what they are I put ours at 55" for this reason the other place will be where the drop is most co use a drop neck Im not sure if anyone uses a square neck but it is real easy to build I cant see anyone charging extra for that neck I know we wouldn't it is just a matter of finding what you want and finding good people to work with. There are alot of snakes in this industry but there are alot more good reputable people in it also I know our co has been around for 30 years, and there are others that have been at it as long or longer. pm me if you have anymore questions

[Copper]

I'm not absolutely positive I'm seeing this correctly, but here's my thoughts -

On the B&W, you're probably going to need to "Customize" the mounting brackets, because the bed floor of your service body probably isn't quite the same as the floor in your old bed. That should be doable, though - I'd bet you might be better off buying it without the mounting kit at all, and just build the sideplates.

As for the sides being a problem, you gain 3", but you're a couple inches lower with the 2wd, plus the weight of the bed squatting it a little more, so a regular gooseneck should clear height-wise. The gusseting/frame angle from the horizontal frame to the hitch tube might be close to the sides, but they should clear if you're careful. And I'm guessing you aren't going to do too much extreme stuff with a 4x2 anyhow. The other problem could be the back corners, but you could fudge a little when you mount the ball, setting it back to dead over the axle, or even using the ball extender they make. The problem with building the trailer to fit the pickup is that sooner or later, you'll need to pull a different trailer, and you're up a creek.