I am hauling a 1300 lb. camper, gear and a 16 foot 3-horse slant trailer that weighs between 6-7000 lbs. Sometimes just the camper and no trailer. I have the tuff country 2.5" lift which worked fine on the front but the rear is now quite saggy(trailer or no) and the drivers side is sitting much lower than passenger side. I would like to beef up the rear suspension and maintain the 2-3" lift so that it is not always touching overloads like it is now . What is my best option. New springs? Add a leafs? Air bags? Timbrens? Should I replace springs first regardless? Thanks
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1994 F250, Tymar, Tuff country 2" lift
My vote would be to replace the springs and then add a more substantial overload like airbags.
The rear springs do more than just hold the truck off the axle they also provide the lateral support while going around curves and such. If you add airbags it will help with the weight carrying but not the lateral support. Weak springs also contribute to axle windup and that puts more stress on the u-joints.
If the springs are getting weak I would rather have total peace of mind and put new ones on.
I agree with the Addict...got to have good leaf springs to start with. I love my airbags, but they are only a piece of the picture. I use to have an 8 foot slide in and towed a 3 horse bumper pull. The two put more weight right over the axle than my big ol' 5er. Beef it up or risk some major heartburn. Good luck.
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'97 F250 XLT, PSD, Ext Cab, E4OD, 4.10, TYMAR 4 position flip CHIP, BD Downpipe, Isspro pyrometer pre-turbo, AutoMeter tranny gauge, info@TymarPerformance.comTymar air, Tymar coolant filter, and Tymar HPX mod, ported wind deflector, 4" Exhaust, 4" kitty, Hayden tranny cooler w/in-line magnetic filter, Sonnex Valve, Tricumulator Springs, BMM tranny pan Summit Racing, Synthetic ATF, DYNAMAT, AC Mod, Bilstein Shocks from Eshock, Joe Servo IDM Mod, rhino bedliner, custom wheels, Lil' Rocker 5er hitch, 26.5 Prowler LE
If that was an all-spring Tuff Country lift, the only thing you can do is replace them. I have a friend that had his Bronco lifted 4" with a Tuff Country lift, and his rear-springs are sagging pretty badly. He likes the front end parts OK, but said if he did it again he'd put the blocks in the rear and keep the factory springs.
Sorry to all the loyal 7.3 guys, but I traded my '91 7.3 in on a 2002 F250 Ex cab V10 4x4. SCT Xcalibrator2 with tunes by Powerplay Performance. 285/75/16 Toyo M/T's. Took a long time to get used to the ping-pop of a cooling catalytic converter...LOL.
'85 Bronco swapped up to a 302 4bbl from the 300 I6, NP435 4spd, NP208, 32x11.50x15 Radial RVT's, Soon to be 6.9 turbo powered.
86 F350 Cab&Chassis with a dump bed. 2wd 6.9 and 4 spd tranny. No mods to engine.
Good info given above, all I can add is that these lifted spring companies have more to deal with than just capacity. They also have to think about flex for articulation purposes when offroad which means they use lighter leafs but more of them. I have yet to see an aftermarket spring that did not sag or even have the capacity of stock ones. An add-a-leaf is a good option or even a local spring shop usually uses heavier material. You stated that it is unlevel so a new set of rear springs might be best to start with so you get a "level playing field" Then if you need more lift, use blocks or an add-a-leaf.
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