Factory hitch problem and questions

[Dave_C]

I have an 01 F350 PSD dually with the factory rec. hitch. The truck only has 64K miles. About 5K of that has been towing my 28' enclosed race car trailer. The loaded trailer weighs about 10K lbs. I use a Valley WD hitch w/ round bars.

I have noticed that the hitch pin hole in the receiver has become wallowed out. It's not bad, but enough to have a "clunk" when starting and stoping. It's worse on one side (side with the bent end of the pin). The locking pin (Fulton brand) is not hurt other than a little rust. I guess it's hardened. Likewise, the Valley tube is not hurt. It's solid and the hole is ok. The "wallowed out" gap is about 1/8" on one side and 1/16" on the other. I normally leave the WD hitch in place when not towing. It has saved me from a couple of rear end collisions. Does leaving it in place and bouncing around cause the wallowing of the hole?

1. Is this a common problem?
2. Do I need to replace the hitch?
3. Are there any repair kits available? It seems like you could drill the hole a little larger and weld in a hardened bushing of some type.
4. What are some good brands of hitch if I need to replace it? The local truck acc store carries "Curt Mfg". I want one that bolts in using the factory holes. Any brands to stay away from?
5. Since my WD hitch is 2" shank I guess I need to stay with a class IV. What is the highest rated class IV out there?

Sorry for so many questions, but I thought I would ask the experts.

Thanks
Dave_C

[FaC]

I had the same thing happen but maybe not as much as you describe. I went to Lowes and bought a cheap bronze bushing to slip over the hitch pin. The bushing keeps the bent part of the pin away from the hole. I did not have to repair or replace the actual receiver.

FWIW - Frank

[Dualie]

I would start using a grade 8 bolt. Tighten it down fairly tight. The added friction of the receiver being pinched should eliminate your "slop" problem.

Now if you live in a northern rust belt climate I would recommend some anti sneeze on the hitch tube which will negate a bit of the added friction but it will make removal much easier.

[tomshep]

I've got an 02 Dually pulling a nearly identical trailer. I am using a draw tite WD hitch. Mine is the exact same way. It has play and I hear it when pulling. I remove the hitch all the time so I don't think that is your problem. I am not worrying about it until it gets worse or bothers me more.

Tom

[T_Bone]

Hi Dave,

That's caused by not enough thickness in the side wall of the receiver tubing.

Most good receivers will weld a 1/4" x 2" washer on the outside of the receiver tube when mfg. You would need a 1/2" x 2" on your existing receiver.

You will also need to replace your hitch pin every couple years for typical pulling and every year if commerical pulling. The pins do work harden and will shear if given enough time.

The strongest commerical made is a 2-1/2" receiver rated at 14000GVW.

After making my own custom hitching, the receiver design is at it limits at about 15000GVW. I increased my pin to a 3/4" pin on this last rebuild and even that was not enough with about 22kGVW on farm use as I still offset that 3/4" pin.

Every trailer I own now is 5th wheel for that very reason. I also converted my GN to a king pin.

[olddieseldude]

Originally Posted by T_Bone

...The strongest commerical made is a 2-1/2" receiver rated at 14000GVW. ...

My Putnam Reciever Hitch #PU25230 is 16000#WD 1600# tongue weight. 15000#/1500# with out WD.