First Time Fifth Wheel - Questions

[kena48]

Thinking of buying a fifth wheel from a dealer & trading in my tow behind camper. Help needed, because I don't trust RV Dealers answers (they are throwing in a hitch, but I want to make sure it's the right one).

06 Crew Cab Short Bed PSD

Will new wiring need to go inside bed?

Will they (dealer) tap into the existing harness?

Will Drop in bed liner be a problem?

Will it need to be cut fot the hitch rails?

Does my truck require or benefit from a sliding hitch?

Do I need a 2 way or 4 way tilt? don't want to upgrade later)

Is a 12,500 GVWR (32 feet) too much for this truck on long halls?

Sure appreciate any help with these questions.

[GShelton]

Q: Will new wiring need to go inside bed?

A: Not required. Some people put a second plug in the bed, but normally, you just hang the wire over the tailgate and plug it in where you normally do.

Q: Will they (dealer) tap into the existing harness?

A: They would if you were having the additional connector put in. But they will probably charge you.

Q: Will Drop in bed liner be a problem?

A: This I don't know.

Q: Will it need to be cut fot the hitch rails?

A: Likely, yes. Otherwise the rails would not be tight against the bed floor.

Q: Does my truck require or benefit from a sliding hitch?

A: On a shortbed, I would get one. Better to be safe than sorry. If you ever get in a position where you need to turn very tight (mainly backing) you will need the extra spacing.

Q: Do I need a 2 way or 4 way tilt? don't want to upgrade later)

A: Need? No. But I would go for the 4way. As you said, you don't want to upgrade later. It makes it much easier to hitch up on uneven ground.

Q: Is a 12,500 GVWR (32 feet) too much for this truck on long halls?

A: I do not know the answer for this. IMO, it should be OK, but I would check for sure.


You should hop over to www.rv.net and visit the forums. Lots of information there.

[SmokeyWren]

Glenn did a pretty good job of answering your questions, but I thought I'd give you my impressions too.


[ QUOTE ]

06 Crew Cab Short Bed PSD

Will new wiring need to go inside bed?


[/ QUOTE ]

Not necessarily. I prefer my 5er plug to be on the side of the bed (preferably in front of the wheelwell) but you can also plug the trailer into your stock 7-pin connecter near the rear bumper. If the electric cable from the trailer is not long enough to reach that plug with plenty of slack for turning, then you might need to add a 3' or so extension cord. Any decent RV shop can fabricate such as extension cord, but you probably won't find one built by a factory.

[ QUOTE ]
Will they (dealer) tap into the existing harness?

[/ QUOTE ]

If they install a 7-pin plug in the side of the bed, then yes, they'll have to get the juice from somewhere. If you allow them to do it, then yes, they'll probably tap into the factory wiring harness.

But here's an alternative. If you want the plug in the side of the bed, but insist they not tap into any wires, then they could run the wiring cable back to your connector on the back bumper, install a 7-pin plug on that cable, and plug it into the factory plug. Viola! No wires cut or tapped. If you need to tow a bumper-pull trailer some day, simply unplug the 5er plug extension and plug in the tag trailer.

[ QUOTE ]
Will Drop in bed liner be a problem?

[/ QUOTE ]

Probably. But I wouldn't have one anyway. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt. Spend the money for a good spray-in bed liner and you'll be much happier. Install the 5er hitch in the bare painted bed, then remove it before you go to the spray-in folks. That way the holes in the bed will be covered with liner material so there won't be a place for rust to begin. After you get the pickup back home, then reinstall the 5er hitch.

[ QUOTE ]
Will it need to be cut fot the hitch rails?

[/ QUOTE ]

Probably. Most drop in bedliners aren't form fitted to the floor of the bed. If you install the bed rails over the liner, then when you tighten down the rails you'll distort the liner. Not purrdy. But if you cut out for the bedrails, you'll have a place for even more moisture to get between the liner and the bed, causing rust and stink. That's why I say get rid of that bed liner and have a Rhino sprayed in.

[ QUOTE ]
Does my truck require or benefit from a sliding hitch?

[/ QUOTE ]

Definitely. I lived with a shorty bed without a sliding hitch for a few months, but was always scared of entering any unfamiliar alley or trail or street or road because my rig couldn't be jacknifed to turn around if the road dead-ended. Cab to trailer contact.

So as a minimum, get a manual slider hitch, such as a Reese or Drawtite.
http://www.reese-hitches.com/WD/dt_5...ct_series.html

And always remember to slide the hitch before you put the tranny in reverse. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

With a Reese or Drawtite hitch, their 15k 5er hitch is only 2-way tilt. So you have to move up to the 16k to get the good one. The 16k with slider is $600, plus the install kit. And you want the better install kit with the Hiden Hitch brackets, so that's another $200 or so. (That website calls that install kit the "Custom Quick Install Kits (Rails part #58058 included in these kits". The ordinary $100 bed rail kit is a lot harder to install.

Even better is the automatic SuperGlide hitch from www.pullrite.com - if I ever buy another shorty pickup, I won't leave home without a SuperGlide hitch. But get ready for sticker shock when you price one - they're a lot more than $800 for the parts. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

[ QUOTE ]
Do I need a 2 way or 4 way tilt?

[/ QUOTE ]

4-way, definitely. If you ever need to hook up on uneven ground, then the 4-way tilt is required. Else you'll have to ramp up one rear wheel of the pickup to make it level side-to-side with the trailer so the hitch will connect. That's do-able, but a real pain in the butt - especially if it's raining and you're sloshing around in the mud. Experience talking again. I threw away a two-way tilt hitch and replaced it with a 4-way tilt. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]


[ QUOTE ]
Is a 12,500 GVWR (32 feet) too much for this truck on long halls?

[/ QUOTE ]

Borderline. Here's the math:

Your GVWR is probably 10,000 pounds. A wet and loaded trailer grossing 12,500 pounds will have a hitch weight of 17 to 18 percent. Let's assume 17 percent for WAG purposes. 12,500 times 17 percent = 2,125 pound of hitch weight. 10,000 pounds GVWR minus 2,125 hitch weight = 7,895 pounds max wet and loaded weight for your tow vehicle. If your F-250 is a 4x4, that means you can't have much weight in the truck or you'll exceed the GVWR of the tow vehicle. So leave all the heavy tools and jacks at home. Travel with minimum fresh water. Don't haul heavy stuff in the trailer, such as cast iron cookware and heavy dishes. Wait until you get to where you're going before you stock up on canned goods, then buy only what you'll probably use before you head back home. Be sure the holding tanks are dumped before you hit the road. That sorta stuff.

IOW, be aware that you probably don't have quite enough truck for a fully-loaded truck and trailer unless you consciously limit the weight you're hauling.

When on the road the first few trips, stop at a truckstop that has a CAT scale. Fill up with diesel, then weigh the rig with you and all passengers in the cab. Add the weight of the front and rear pickup axles to get your GVW, then compare that to your GVWR. If you're overloaded over the GVWR of your pickup, then figure out how to lighten the load a bit more. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]

[firesoutmatt]

[ QUOTE ]
Thinking of buying a fifth wheel from a dealer & trading in my tow behind camper. Help needed, because I don't trust RV Dealers answers (they are throwing in a hitch, but I want to make sure it's the right one).

06 Crew Cab Short Bed PSD

Will new wiring need to go inside bed?

<font color="red">Yes unless you make a longer cord to reach the rear plug </font>
Will they (dealer) tap into the existing harness?

<font color="red">Yes But don't let them. etrailer.com has T's that you can go from the rear plug and add a plug in the bed. </font>
Will Drop in bed liner be a problem?

<font color="red">Yes depending on the hitch </font> Will it need to be cut fot the hitch rails?

Does my truck require or benefit from a sliding hitch?

<font color="red">Yes if its a short box get a slider </font> .

Do I need a 2 way or 4 way tilt? don't want to upgrade later)

<font color="red"> 4 way all the way </font>

Is a 12,500 GVWR (32 feet) too much for this truck on long halls?

<font color="red">No Look at door sticker for weights. </font>
Sure appreciate any help with these questions.

[/ QUOTE ]

[kena48]

Thanks to all three for the good answers I feel alot better going into this now.

Ken

[tannerj]

I guess I have never been put in a position to totally jack-knife my 5er but I don't see why you would need the slider...


I try not to put my self in a position that I would have to jack-knife my 5er... I am thinking I could with the hitch I have...

Could someone explain this to me?

[96STROKE]

A sliding hitch is nessasary on a short bed to move the hitch toward the tailgate which moves the nose of the trailer away from the cab, which when jackknifed, the nose of the trailer would crush the cab of the truck.

This is why your just better off going with a long bed and never have to worry about it.

[tannerj]

96stroke...

How often do you jack-knife your 5er... I have owned mine now for 2 years and have never jack-knife mine.... I have came very close but never completely 90 degrees.... though I have never done, when I have close I look at the nose of the 5er and the back window and to me it looks like I have could jack-knife...

Just wondering...Jarrod

[runtime]

I've towed 5er for 7 years with a short bed and no slider. Depends on the pin box on the trailer. If it is extended then I don't think it is totally necessary for a slider. I'm on my second trailer and this one is actually a little longer than the first one (can leave my tailgate down and still hitch). My late fathers trailer didn't have the extended pin box and the one time I pulled it, I was a little concerned about my turning radius (got within inches of cab), but just made sure I didn't get in a bad situation.

I've had my 5ers in some really tight back woods camping spots and never jack-knifed. The one thing I do think you need is the 4 way piviot. My 15Klb Reese hitch only is the single pivot type (front to back and not side to side). I've had to block wheels and dig holes to get hitched back up more than once.

Just my .02

Kevin

[kena48]

I went back to the dealer today loaded. They were going to install a small Reeses two way. I was able to get a Reese 16K 4 way tilt with slide, and a pigtail into the bed via WW (spliced and soldered - no clamps) all for the same money. So, it sure helped to have this knowledge in my back pocket!

[mudguppy]

good job!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] feels good to get your money's worth, doesn't it??

[remedm]

Where is a good place to put it in the bed?
Pics Anyone.
I need to do mine before camping, Not sure where to put it?

[corbensdad]

Put what in the bed???

[firesoutmatt]

[ QUOTE ]
Where is a good place to put it in the bed?
Pics Anyone.
I need to do mine before camping, Not sure where to put it?

[/ QUOTE ]

Well it depends who your sleeping with. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]

[remedm]

[ QUOTE ]
I went back to the dealer today loaded. They were going to install a small Reeses two way. I was able to get a Reese 16K 4 way tilt with slide, and a pigtail into the bed via WW (spliced and soldered - no clamps) all for the same money. So, it sure helped to have this knowledge in my back pocket!

[/ QUOTE ]
The 7-way Plug guyes. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]\
Where are you putting them at, In the bed of the TRUCK !!!!!!!