Just got a (new to me) 1996 Jayco Eagle 5er and I need to flip the axles on it to get it level with the truck..... Has anyone done this?? It looks like a pretty straightforward job, but I am looking for tips/tricks to make the job easier..
TIA,
teamroper60
__________________ 2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03, (still running the original flash!), AIC, MBRP turbo-back exhaust, Tuning by Total Diesel Performance, AFE PG7, Fumoto valve, B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges, Voyager brake controller, DIESELSITE Coolant filter, Timbrens, Rancho RSXs, Michelin XPS Traction's, a whole bunch of "bling", Connex 4300hp, JL Audio 275w amp w/ 12" sub, Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 376hp
Yessir, I did mine as soon as I bought it. I was able to leave the original spring perches on both axles, so I could change it back to stock height come resale time. I just bought new perches, (maybe U-bolts too, don't recall), welded on the new perches opposite the old ones, reinstalled both axles under the springs, lengthened my brake wiring as required. Very simple straightforward job plus trailer suspension parts are very low cost if you deal with a trailer supply store, not an RV dealership.
On Edit:I might have had to pull a spring hanger bolt and drop one end of the spring to get enough clearance between the frame and spring pack so the drums and backing plate assemblies could be lifted through. But there again, no big deal. The main thing is a decent jack and proper jack stands and a helper to horse the axle assemblies in and out although I think I did mine alone.
If it has Dexter Axles, like most canpers do. You can order a kit from Dexter with all parts that are needed. Here is a link to that page on their site.
Yes you can do that, but most axles have a bow in the middle to give you positive camber on a trailer’s that carries weight all the time.(as in a TT) Check with Dexter on that, all mine have.
So if you just flip the axle you will have negative camber.(not good)
Also if you have electric brakes, the applying magnet will be on the top instead of the bottom as it supposed to be.(also not good)Check with Dexter on brake installation.
The correct way to do it is to buy new spring saddles and move axle to bottom with new saddles and weld them to the axle. You can leave the old ones on so if it needs to be lowered again it’s a quick deal.
I’ve done this on 3 TT’s and it works.
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2000 7.3 auto F-350 CC,LB,DRW, 4x4, 4:10's
ISSPRO piller mount gauges, IAH delete, DIY Tymar, Boost fooler, 203 thermostat, HX crossover, Zoodad Mod, MBRP 4" exhaust, SP Diesel EBPV Brake & TCC controler, 6.0 trans cooler, CCV Mod, WW, BTS vb, PI convertor, 'pooned tank, tank and pre-pump mods, DP-Tuner no start, stock, 40t, 60t, 80e, and 120r, fumoto valve
I did mine by myself. It took one day, working slow.
IMHO, you need real good jack stands, mine are rated at 6 tons and extend to 28 inches. The chassis on mine is 24" from the ground after the modification.
Searh on Dexter part numbers K71-384 for 2 3/8 axle tubes or K71-385 for 3" tubes. (The "384" kit is about $30).
The saddles in these kits do not require welding. But I welded mine anyway just to be sure. Take care to ensure that the perches are parallel with one another, otherwise you will have alignment issues, excessive tire wear, and poor tracking.
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2001 F250 SC 4X4 Blue PSD Auto, Cody Gooseneck Hitch, Rancho Shocks and Steering Stabilzer, Tekonsha Prodigy Controller, Garmin Streetpilot 2610 GPS, Walker BTM, 285/75R/16E, Western Diesel Trans-Pyro-Boost, Pillar Mount, Painless fuse panel, In-tank and Pre-pump mods, Slotted Rear Rotors, Slotted and Cross Drilled Front Rotors, Fumoto Valve, Zoodad Mod, Transfer Flow 46 gal tank, Mag-Hytec Differential Cover, Electric Tailgate Lock, IAH Deleted, Coolant Filter, DP-Tuner 80 hp PCM, CCV Mod, 203 Thermostat, Ford AIS Air Filter
No you don’t have to weld them, but if you have brakes on the axle and you don’t weld them you run the risk of the axle spinning when the brakes apply.
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2000 7.3 auto F-350 CC,LB,DRW, 4x4, 4:10's
ISSPRO piller mount gauges, IAH delete, DIY Tymar, Boost fooler, 203 thermostat, HX crossover, Zoodad Mod, MBRP 4" exhaust, SP Diesel EBPV Brake & TCC controler, 6.0 trans cooler, CCV Mod, WW, BTS vb, PI convertor, 'pooned tank, tank and pre-pump mods, DP-Tuner no start, stock, 40t, 60t, 80e, and 120r, fumoto valve
The term "flipping axles" is given to this mod even though the axles are not actually flipped, they are just relocated. I did this on my TT. Don't buy the kit, all it is, is 4 new saddle blocks and new U bolts. Depending on the condition of the old U bolts you may not need new ones and the saddle blocks can be bought for $12.00 for all four. That is what I paid for four blocks and the guy welded them on for me. I wouldn't do this without welding even though Dexter says you don't have to. I want them welded on my TT. I received about 5" of extra clearence when done. Just get four tall jack stands of something else to support all four corners, a level concrete area in nice. I have a gravel driveway which makes it harder. Air tools will speed things up quite a bit.
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Kevin L. Mnt Airy, NC.
2000 Ford F350 4X4 Auto,Crew Cab Lariat, Western Hauler Package, Long bed,
Isspro EV Guages on A-Pillar, Coolant change from Green to Gold to Red,
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Yes you can do that, but most axles have a bow in the middle to give you positive camber on a trailer’s that carries weight all the time.(as in a TT) Check with Dexter on that, all mine have.
So if you just flip the axle you will have negative camber.(not good)
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Teamroper60 is an oldtimer here and although he (and myself) always say flipped we all know we actually don't mean just turning the axles unside down, otherwise you could use the old spring perches.
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I wouldn't do this without welding even though Dexter says you don't have to.
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Me neither, it's odd they'd make a statement like that. If you removed the old perches and just laid the new ones on top of the axles unwelded, then in time if the U-bolts ever loosened up your axle itself could rotate some. Not to mention slip from side to side a bit during tight turns.
Thanks for the advice!! I bought new spring seats (perches), new U-bolts and 4 new shackle bolts since I'll need to drop one end of each spring.... Anything else I should get to make it go smoother?? With any luck, we're either gonna do this tomorrow or next Saturday...
Thanks again!
__________________ 2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03, (still running the original flash!), AIC, MBRP turbo-back exhaust, Tuning by Total Diesel Performance, AFE PG7, Fumoto valve, B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges, Voyager brake controller, DIESELSITE Coolant filter, Timbrens, Rancho RSXs, Michelin XPS Traction's, a whole bunch of "bling", Connex 4300hp, JL Audio 275w amp w/ 12" sub, Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 376hp
The choice is yours, but if the trailer has a lot of miles on it and the spring, shackle, and equalizer bar bushings are fairly sloppy, now would be the ideal time to change them. That's when I did mine, but I bought my tlr. used. They're not rubber, they're nylon or bronze, so they drive or push out easily. If you're real picky, you can get shackle bolts with zerk fittings so then the bushings are all greasable. I assume, like most RV's, you don't have shocks, if so you might have to make some changes when re-mounting them after the axle move.
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Thanks for the advice!! I bought new spring seats (perches), new U-bolts and 4 new shackle bolts since I'll need to drop one end of each spring.... Anything else I should get to make it go smoother?? With any luck, we're either gonna do this tomorrow or next Saturday...
Thanks again!
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Realize the entry steps are going to be high.
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Here is most of what you need to know on getting your 7.3L started and how to operate it in the cold winter months. These posts use to readily available, but they've been hid in a subforum top of the 7.3 Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain forum. Winter Operation (How I Do It) Hard/No Start? Check here first
Boy this is a timely thread. I just bought a used 25 foot travel trailer which has virtually no ground clearance. I was fearful I'd rip the trailer's rear bumper off just pulling into the driveway.
So I just ordered the conversion kits from RV Surplus for $22 per kit. Price was good but shipping was a tad high. Looks liek a pretty straight-forward installation (famous last words), just need to make sure my welds don't mess with the brake wiring...which runs through the axle.
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'94 F250 supercab 4x4, original owner, 4.10LS, shimmed FPR, Tymar air intake, DP Tuners 80 Econo burn, VDO gauges (boost,pyro, outside temp), Ford digital AIC, DPPI downpipe, gutted EBPV, add-a-leafs front and rear, Monroe Reflex shocks, Milemarker 449SS hubs, towing 25' Mallard travel trailer
I have seen short picess of pipe mounted between the spring perches. I would "ASSUME " that they were a tad longer than the space between to lock them in place when everything was tightened.
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2001 7.3L F450 4x4 CC Automatic Fontaine Conversion 4:30 Limited slip Reyco Granning Full Air Ride Supension, Transfer Flow Fuel System, 4" MBRP turbo back, gages, pryo pre turbo.
Build Date 03-12-01 in KY. Towing a 34 foot Thor Tahoe toy hauler 5er.
2004 F250 CC SB XLT 6.0 Automatic Gauges Big Walker Truck Muffler towing a 23 foot American Freedom with a buggy inside
2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03, (still running the original flash!), AIC, MBRP turbo-back exhaust, Tuning by Total Diesel Performance, AFE PG7, Fumoto valve, B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges, Voyager brake controller, DIESELSITE Coolant filter, Timbrens, Rancho RSXs, Michelin XPS Traction's, a whole bunch of "bling", Connex 4300hp, JL Audio 275w amp w/ 12" sub, Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 376hp
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