I have been a long time reader here, since I bought my truck in 2000 actually. I even used to be registered, but could not find my login info tonight, but now I need some advice/ <font color="red"> HELP </font> .
I have a 2000 F350 crew cab / drw / 4wd, had the truck since new.
It has a B&W GN hitch, and the factory tow package.
It also has a chip, but I don’t remember what brand.
Never have I ever had a problem like I am having now.
I have a GN dump trailer and pulled many a load with it just fine.
Well the other day loaded with about 10K of gravel something sent my truck into a bucking, surging, oscillating (what ever the correct term would be), forward, backward, up and down FIT! Any time the brakes were applied. That was on the last load for the day of about 5 in total.
Don’t have a clue what started it or caused it???
Thought maybe the brake controller may have gone bad, so I replaced it with a Tekonsha PRODIGY brake control.
Today, we were pulling a different trailer a (14K rated) 25’ GN flat bed loaded with a piece of equipment that weighed about 6K, a very light load for this trailer, most of the weight was loaded a little in front of the trailers axels.
Guess what?
Today it was doing this pushing, jumping, up and down junk, just going down the road. You could manually apply the trailer brakes on the controller and it would stop this crap.
Coming to a stop with just the brake pedal was an experience all in of it’s self; you had to max out the manual lever and gain on the brake controller to have any control of the truck.
I have pulled many a different trailer with this truck but never have I had this problem.
Nothing has changed on the truck other than age and a new brake controller. The trailers are all trailers I have pulled before with no problems. Loads are nothing uncommon.
I am at a loss. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
Checked the GN mount, it’s tight and don’t see anything broken.
Checked the suspension, don’t see or cant tell if anything is loose.
Ball fit in the GN cup on the trailer seems a little loose, but not major.
Truck by its self rides fine.
Where and what else should I be looking at for the possible source of this problem.
All suggestions appreciated!!
Thanks, Mark
Will check back Friday, it’s past my bedtime! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
I would start by running the wiring for the brake system on the truck. The plug would be my starting point. It sounds like a wire loose or rubbed raw. Maybe a light wire shooting 12 volts to the brakes intermittly when you try to stop.
Joe
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2002 F350, Crew Cab, 4WD, ISSOPRO Gauges,
3.73, Auto, 2wd low range mod, No door dinger,
Interior lights off switch, Zoodad Mod,
Extra Trans Cooler, Before coolers trans fltr,
Coolant fltr, Crimestopper remote start/alarm
Oil Guard Bypass, Air horns
I would tap a mechanical sweep type voltmeter into the brake power line just past the truck female plug. Run a long line(s) and put the meter in the cab. Watch for spikes in the 12 volts, the needle will show it. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] This could be the cause, but now to find the cure........
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Bob
My Pictures
1984 Bronco II 4x4 day to day driver : Winter
2005 Explorer Sportrac 4x4 day to day driver : Summer
1991 F350 / Crew cab , Engine 7.3,E4OD tranny. No Turbo but has propane and pyro gauge. The truck is American, complete with a Miles per Hour speedo. Digital trans. temp gauge and voltmeter. Front Captain seats. Control switches for DRL's , Fog lites, High speed idle, Engine kill and scene lites. On board " York " compressed air, Air horns and built in hose reel behind the rear seat. Power bar distribution box from a 1999 Ford Explorer . Checker plate running boards and Frieghtliner mud flaps. LED turn signals in the factory mirrors. DC to AC inverter to run the coffee maker <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Soon to be updated with more toys as time & $$$ permit. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
This problem started while trying to stop the truck at a redlight, which led me to think the brake controler had gone out. Now this jumping or push/pull with the trailer is happening when just going down the road pulling the trailer, no brakes - flashers or anything running. But when you do try to stop - OH HEAVEN! You have to run the manual leaver over to max on the brake box and let off the truck brakes till this jumping fit stops - then you easily put on the truck brakes.
No I am not pulling any more loads with it till I figure this out!
But I have done some checking.
I have checked the wiring the best I can and don't see any problems.
Made up a spliced in connector between the truck plug and the trailer plug, ran it to the back window in the truck, checked the wires while riding down the road, see no spikes in the voltage going down the brake wire, or any other wire while pulling the trailer down the road.
I even tried pulling the GN trailer with the plug un-hooked, same problem! (very rual area - with a car following me)
Tried pulling a small load (4K lb) on a bumper pull trailer - same problem! Maybe even worse!
This is leading me to a problem in the Driveline, Transmision, a Engine sensor or something??? But the truck by its self drives, rides, and runs fine. Not a single problem till a trailer is hooked to it.
If I figure this out, I will let you know, so if someone else ever has this happen.... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
try checking the drive shaft. After you check it unloaded try putting some wieght in it and trying it again, sounds like the driveshaft is binding when you change the angle.
I agree with you. Other than the weight of it behind the truck, the trailers have been eliminated as the problem's source. It has to be in the braking system or the driveline. You may want to pull the wheels and check the rotors, pads, and front end joints. Then I'd go down the driveshaft, midshaft bearing and universal joints.
Good luck, Joe
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2002 F350, Crew Cab, 4WD, ISSOPRO Gauges,
3.73, Auto, 2wd low range mod, No door dinger,
Interior lights off switch, Zoodad Mod,
Extra Trans Cooler, Before coolers trans fltr,
Coolant fltr, Crimestopper remote start/alarm
Oil Guard Bypass, Air horns
I've read at least one other post here where someone had trouble running a chip with a trailer plugged in. Think it had something to do with the trailer not grounding properly and causing the chip to go haywire.
You might try adding a ground wire. Just clean up a spot on the frame of the truck and run a wire with a spade clip from it. Do the same on the trailer.
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06 F350XL rc,lb,manual 4x4, 6.0 PSD, 6 speed
Upfitter Switches
BCP Idle Control
55 watt halogen back up lights
200 psi 5 gallon air system with hammer 3 horns
Diesel Site Coolant Filter
Well I hope this is not your problem, but we had a similiar experience once with out y2k dually.
All of a sudden bad things were happening when we had a trailer and a boat on. Trailer and boat weight about 16K-17K. The problem would come and go for months, but we could never see anything wrong with the truck. It finally got real bad on one trip.
Got rid of the boat and the problem changed, but was still there with the empty trailer. Drove the 500 miles home praying it would get me there and started looking. Weirdest thing is it completely went away except for a slight vibration with no trailer.
Long story short the bolts that held the rotor to the rear hub had fallen out on one side! Of the eight were supposed to be there 5 were gone, 1 was broken off, 1 was bent right over on itself and 1 was finger tight. I can't believe I didn't loose the whole wheel and tire assembly!!!
This bucking only showed up when the trailer was on. Might be worth jacking it up on each side, take the tires off and see if there is any play between the rotor and the hub. I would hate
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
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