to tow the tools & the rest of my posessions @1200 miles west to relocate , for work . so i went out and bought a 2000 F250 srw / AT / crew cab long bed , with the 7.3 psd . if i could get some of the journeymen to chime in here , i'd sure be grateful . im pulling 30 foot enclosed trailer , and its a heavy sob!.every time i take off , theres a lag , and then a thump , but it doesn't seem to be getting worse . im trying my best to ignore it , but it kinda got me a little bit concerned . truck came with a superchips flashpaq tuner . what would be good upgrades to ensure that i wont run into any avoidable catastrophies?truck has 120,000 miles & 2wd , and not sure that it did any towing , as the trailer brakes wiring was still sealed up it factory pkg. in glovebox . i have the 1000# load leveling bars for a start . i wana make it bulletproof , before i start shootin at her . thanks for thoughts in advance .
Do you think it could be the slop in the receiver hitch being taken up after a stop?
My 2000 PSD Excursion does that when pulling my 28' enclosed 10k trailer. "Fixed" it temporarily by replacing the hitch pin with a 1/2" Grade 8 bolt, grip washers, and locknut and I tightened the hell out of it with cheater bars.
The "permanent" fix is to replace the hitch, or this:
This also sounds like it could be in your drive line. Does it do this without the trailer on back? Even if it doesn't, it could still be drive line slop, it's just more noticeable with that weight back there. Get underneath your truck, and turn the drive line by hand. You can also rock the vehicle back and forth while in park, and watch/ listen to the drive shaft. If it's loose, there's your problem.
Your tranny could also have some play in it.
2000 F-350 XLT 4x4 Crew cab long bed SRW island blue, 7.3 auto, 3.73's, TS Performance 6 pos tuner, 6637, 4" MBRP straight pipe, home made ccv mod, aih is gone, autometer gauges, tekonsha p3, Ats ported compressor housing, 6.0 cooler, coolant filter, Frx, hutch and harpoon, Go Rhino Dominator III bars, 70K as of 5/13, rebuilt title after totaled with only 12 miles, not by me.
I think this truck wouldn't cost me so much if I wasn't on this site all the time!
after reading through this site , i c that its a common thing among the 250-350 sd / psd with more than 1 drive shaft , that theres a thump , like drivetrain slop , due to the slip yoke needing greased . i hear theres even an aftermarket yoke with a grease zerk . im thinking about crawling under and installing one on the yoke while it still on truck .i d k if it would hurt anything to drill a hole thru it , by the end , pipe thread tap it and install a zerk and just pack the thing with grease. theres no klunk like u joint slop , when you rock the truck back n forth in park , or when its running , going rev. to drive . the carrier bearing seems tight when you get under there and tug on it . a buddy of mine said his 2500 GMC does same thing . thanks for the replies . good ideas , helped me to understand whats goin on . i left out the fact it even does it without trailer , just not as noticable . i hope grease fixes it . if not its probably tranny slop . that cant be good . still need to soup this thing up a bit , any recomendations , im ready to see what this things capible of. . .
While you're there, you could check the tranny mount and motor mounts for any play. If a motor is broken/worn, it could let the motor move enough that the exhaust pipe will hit the firewall when you put it in gear or hit the "go" pedal.
2005 F-350 CC, LB, 4x4, Dually, 6.0 Powerstroke, Torqueshift, 4:10 Gears. Gooseneck and rear pull hitches. "Truck Covers USA" roll up aluminum tonneau cover. Putco Boss Running Boards. Aluminum finned diff covers. Bilstein HD shocks. ProComp steering stabilizer. XRF ball joints. NC Hornet CCV mod. RCD egr delete kit. AirDog fuel system. Strictly Diesel's regulated fuel and coolant return lines kits. Amsoil oil bypass (by NUC Motorsports) and homebuilt coolant bypass kits. CFM intake elbow. ARP head studs with factory gaskets and all upgrades. MBRP 304SS "Cool Dual" exhaust system. SCT Livewire tuner with pyrometer. Autometer 'A' pillar gauges (Boost/Trans temp/Pyrometer/Fuel Pressure). 850 CCA Motorcraft Batteries. Using Rotella T-6 synthetic oil. Upgraded degas tank and cap. Hayes deep aluminum trans pan. GoGo Diesel modified direct clutch solenoid. Retro Solutions HID head and fog lights. High idle mod. Jimmi-Jammers. Many other custom features.
thanks for getn me to the rite page . my bad . im new , i get lost , all the time
in this site . i have like no free time , and im trying to set up our rig , and , you know the rest of the story . i just get obsessed , when i start playing with my toys . its stock , as far as i know , except for the superchips flashpaq . i cant tell if theres anything else done to truck . i cant wait to modify something else . i've tried every tune , and so far , it runs the best in the city with the tow/performance , without trailer . it seems tighter , quieter , shifts better . i dont know about mileage though . but i didnt buy a 7.3 for the economy , i got it to drag a house down the road . know what i mean vern
on the driveshaft , be whats causing that thump at takeoff . for some reason its less noticeable with the tow/perf. tune on truck . thanks for the help . this site is awesum . i learned more about deisel trucks , reading for 1 day , than i have the past month of owning it.
what would be good upgrades to ensure that i wont run into any avoidable catastrophies?truck has 120,000 miles & 2wd , and not sure that it did any towing , as the trailer brakes wiring was still sealed up it factory pkg. in glovebox .
The most likely trouble spot with any '99-'03 7.3L is the automagic tranny. The tranny will go south in a heartbeat if you let it get too hot. So before you head out on the big tow, add a tranny temp gauge, with the sender mounted in the test port on the driver's side of the tranny. Then use 225° as your red line for tranny temp. DO NOT let it get over 225° for longer than a few minutes.
Tranny temp goes up when you are cruising at less than about 45 MPH with a heavy trailer. So don't do that. Keep the speed up to over 45 MPH so the torque converter will stay locked up and not throw a volcano worth of heat at the coolers.
If the tranny gets over 225°, the only quick fix is to stop the rig, put the tranny in park or neutral, and elevate the idle to 1,300 RPM until the tranny temp falls back to less than 225°. The permanent fix is to replace the oil-to-air tranny cooler with the much bigger one from a Ford 6.0L diesel.
i have the 1000# load leveling bars for a start . i wana make it bulletproof, before i start shootin at her .
1000 pound weight-distributing bars indicates you don't expect the hitch weight to be more than 1,000 pounds before you hook up the bars, or the wet and loaded trailer gross weight to be more than about 8,500 pounds. So double check your weights on a CAT scale at the beginning of your trip. If your trailer axle weight is more than about 7,500 pounds, then your hitch is probably overloaded.
But without the tongue weight scale, you have to weigh the rig twice, once with the trailer and once without. The CAT scale will give you front and rear axle weights as well as trailer axle weight and gross combined weight. Add the front and rear axle weights to get GVW. Subtract the GVW without the trailer from the GVW with the trailer to get hitch weight.
Your F-250 has a GVWR of 8,800. If you tie onto a cargo trailer that has 1,000 pounds hitch weight, you'll probably be overloaded over the GVWR of the F-250. My similar '99.5 CrewCab longbed diesel weighed 8,000 pounds before hooking up to a trailer, with only Darling Wife, puppydog, a toolbox full of tools, and a full tank of diesel, leaving me with only 800 pounds for maximum hitch weight. Maybe weigh your truck without the truck, before you load the trailer for the big trip, to see how much hitch weight you can have without being overloaded.
My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it a coupla years ago. I drove a hand-me-down 2003 F-150 SuperCrew 4.6L 2V for a while, but it was unacceptable for towing more than a rowboat. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat that tows my 5,000-pound TT like a dream.
you answered the next question , before i loged on and got a chance to ask it . i just started to ask , what could i do , to keep from burning up my truck , with this ancor behind it . the trailer is a 30' millenium ,with tandem 10,000# axles , and already has @ 2000 #'s of tools in it . i dont know what the empty weight is . i looked on title , didnt see it anywhere . it sounds like im gona be on the edge of of disaster , unless i do some upgrades . thats the biggest truck i could find for the money . i figured if it wont do the job , what else is out there that will ? im thinking i will need more than a bigger tranny cooler .
what else can i get to make sure this thing aint gona grenade on me , half way to texas ? id rather spend it on preventive measures , than on repair or replacements . is there a trans. controller that would do the trick ? wheres a good place to get truck worked on in n.e. ohio , if , there is such a place ? thanks to all you , taken the time to help out the f n g .really.
the trailer is a 30' millenium ,with tandem 10,000# axles , and already has @ 2000 #'s of tools in it . i dont know what the empty weight is . i looked on title , didnt see it anywhere . it sounds like im gona be on the edge of of disaster , unless i do some upgrades .
Just because the trailer can haul 20,000 pounds, doesn't mean you have to load it that heavy. I would limit the load to a gross trailer weight of 10,000 pounds max, with almost exactly 1,000 pounds hitch weight (before attaching the WD bars). Adjust the hitch weight by moving heavy stuff behind the trailer axles to get less hitch weight, or in front of the trailer axles to add hitch weight. DO NOT wind up with less than 10% hitch weight.
If you must move more stuff than you can get into the trailer without exceeding 9,000 pounds trailer axle weight and 1,000 pounds hitch weight, then probably the cheapest way to getter done is to make more than one trip from the Cleveland area to the Dallas area. You don't have any mountains to cross on that trip, so you should be able to tow a 10,000 pound cargo trailer without being very much overloaded over the GVWR of the F-250. Your GCWR is 20,000 pounds, and with a 10,000-pound trailer you won't gross 20,000 pounds, so pulling ability is not a problem. Hauling capability (hitch weight) is your problem.
With 1,000 pounds trailer tongue weight, your 1,000-pound WD hitch will do the job, so no need to buy a heavier-duty WD hitch.
BTW, don't expect the empty trailer on the return leg to tow much lighter than the loaded trailer on the go leg. Your MPG will probably be close to the same both ways.
thats the biggest truck i could find for the money . i figured if it wont do the job , what else is out there that will ?
A dually. With a 2000 F-350 DRW diesel, hitch weight is no longer your limiter. GCWR becomes the limiter. It is the same 20,000 pounds as your F-250. So with nothing in the truck but a skinny driver, WD hitch, and full tank of diesel, you might be able to get the weight of the wet and loaded dually down to 8,000 pounds. Then you could load the trailer to 12,000 pounds without being overloaded. But that extra 2,000 pounds of cargo means you not only need to trade for a dually pickup, you also need to buy a new WD hitch rated for at least 1,200 pounds hitch weight. And would all that extra expense prevent two trips?
im thinking i will need more than a bigger tranny cooler .
what else can i get to make sure this thing aint gona grenade on me , half way to texas ?
I don't know any measure you can take to "make sure" you won't have a break down on the road. But limiting the trailer axle weight to 9,000 pounds and the hitch weight to 1000 pounds would be a good start. Also fresh oil, ATF, and differential lube can't hurt.
You can have someone else do the diff lube change, or you can DIY. Just be certain they use 75W140 synthetic diff lube. Yes, it has to be synthetic, but any brand is okay. Last time on mine, I used Wal-mart's house brand of 75w140 synthetic diff lube.
Don't plan to tow at night unless you add air bags to the rear suspension. With 1000 pounds hitch weight, even with a WD hitch, your headlights will blind oncoming drivers unless you can pump up the air bags
Last edited by SmokeyWren; 12-08-2012 at 10:54 AM.
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