I haul a lot of weight 50% or more of the time I drive my truck. I am starting to notice sag in the rear leafs. Are there heavier bolt in replacements for these trucks? I think I want to have heavier springs all the way around. I also have timbrens and hellwig 3500 lb overloads currently.
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2001 F-350 CC ZF-6 DRW 4x4 4.10, 15k lb modified J&I flatbed dump, DP tuner F-5 chip: No Start, Valet, High Idle,Stock, 40 Tow, 80 Tow, 80 Econ, Smoke, Lope Idle, South Bend Con OFE, Midwest short shifter, Ranch Hand legend front, Ford AIS intake with zoo-dad, 4 inch turbo back straightpipe, Pacbrake exhaust brake, 2WD Low mod, ISSPRO pyro, boost, water temp A-Pillar, Optima yellow tops, Custom gooseneck/conventional hitches, 255/85/R16 BFG mud terrains, Galaxy 979 CB, Bearcat 350 scanner, Eagle eye off road and cargo lights 900 watts total, Durabak brush guard on wheels and door panels, Prodigy brake controller, Timbren rear blocks, 4 leaf overload pack, Onboard air with horn, Phenoix underbody boxs, Royal Purple in the running gear, Dieselsite 203* t-stat, ESOF lines, DIY HX mod, CCV to atmosphere, Fumoto Valve, Deletes: HI, IC foil, Door dinger, Muffler,
Head to your local dedicated spring shop. I don’t mean the guys who do brakes, tires, exhaust, I mean springs only! You’ll be amazed at what they can do for a truck!
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Why Chyrel? To quote the late great Johnny Cash!
"My name is Sue! How do you do! Now you gonna die!"
2007 Dodge 3500, 4X4 Quad cab SLT, with 6.7L Cummins / 6-speed Aisin, 4:10 gears, and 9 1/2-foot Aluma flatbed.
Long gone
2004 F-550, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, 4:88 LS axle, Flatbed dump with a 10-ton Scott hoist. Autometer Pyro/trans/boost on pillar. Turbo lifesaver.
You may have some broken leafs in there! I just went through this and bought new upgraded ones.
I bought a 5+1 set-up. This gives me 3300 lbs per spring. I am hoping that carries my 4K slide in camper better than the 4+1 pack I had.
Springs were 165 a set just to give you a reference when you buy.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no cat, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 255K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
I went to a spring shop and they recommend using the factory overload brakets and then the fabricate and arch a 4 pack of overloads that attach like the factory overload. They looked bomb proof to me and well worth the money. They said 600 bucks take care of the rear. Im going to have it done monday. I'll probably level the front myself with a leveling kit.
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2001 F-350 CC ZF-6 DRW 4x4 4.10, 15k lb modified J&I flatbed dump, DP tuner F-5 chip: No Start, Valet, High Idle,Stock, 40 Tow, 80 Tow, 80 Econ, Smoke, Lope Idle, South Bend Con OFE, Midwest short shifter, Ranch Hand legend front, Ford AIS intake with zoo-dad, 4 inch turbo back straightpipe, Pacbrake exhaust brake, 2WD Low mod, ISSPRO pyro, boost, water temp A-Pillar, Optima yellow tops, Custom gooseneck/conventional hitches, 255/85/R16 BFG mud terrains, Galaxy 979 CB, Bearcat 350 scanner, Eagle eye off road and cargo lights 900 watts total, Durabak brush guard on wheels and door panels, Prodigy brake controller, Timbren rear blocks, 4 leaf overload pack, Onboard air with horn, Phenoix underbody boxs, Royal Purple in the running gear, Dieselsite 203* t-stat, ESOF lines, DIY HX mod, CCV to atmosphere, Fumoto Valve, Deletes: HI, IC foil, Door dinger, Muffler,
I'd find a different spring shop if that is their complete recommendation.
Since your springs are already sagging, they need to be re-arched. While they have them apart for re-arching they should add one or two leaves to the main spring pack. Then if they want to fabricate a 3 or four leaf overload to replace the OE overload, I'd agree with that. But just to add a heavier overload assembly to a sagging main spring pack is is a poor recommendation IMNSHO.
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2000 F250 Lariat CC SB 4x4 PSD Auto
Well I had the springs put in. Didn't add any leafs to the stock packs. The truck handles a lot better and rides quite a bit higher loaded. It rides a lot better empty also.
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2001 F-350 CC ZF-6 DRW 4x4 4.10, 15k lb modified J&I flatbed dump, DP tuner F-5 chip: No Start, Valet, High Idle,Stock, 40 Tow, 80 Tow, 80 Econ, Smoke, Lope Idle, South Bend Con OFE, Midwest short shifter, Ranch Hand legend front, Ford AIS intake with zoo-dad, 4 inch turbo back straightpipe, Pacbrake exhaust brake, 2WD Low mod, ISSPRO pyro, boost, water temp A-Pillar, Optima yellow tops, Custom gooseneck/conventional hitches, 255/85/R16 BFG mud terrains, Galaxy 979 CB, Bearcat 350 scanner, Eagle eye off road and cargo lights 900 watts total, Durabak brush guard on wheels and door panels, Prodigy brake controller, Timbren rear blocks, 4 leaf overload pack, Onboard air with horn, Phenoix underbody boxs, Royal Purple in the running gear, Dieselsite 203* t-stat, ESOF lines, DIY HX mod, CCV to atmosphere, Fumoto Valve, Deletes: HI, IC foil, Door dinger, Muffler,
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, I mean springs only! You’ll be amazed at what they can do for a truck!
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