Hi guys, considering getting another camper and was looking at 5th wheels. I still want the use of my bed when not camping so was wondering if anybody had any experience with the hide away goose neck set up combined with the 5th wheel adapter. I've only had tow behind travel trailers with F-150s and now that we have the Superduty I'd like to consider the 5th wheel for a change. Which hide away gooseneck is the best or safest?? How about that adapter too--any to stay away from?? Thanks for any comments or advice.
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2000 F-250SD XLT 7.3 Auto CrewCab Long Bed, Harvest Gold, RoadQuest Boards, Superchips 1705, Ford AIS Filter System w/fender sleeve, Extreme Liner, Ranger RCI-2970,Sirius w/FM relay
2007 3.0 Taurus SEL Arizona Beige Metallic
1971 Boss 351 Mustang Fastback 330HP 4spd. Wimbledon White
1994 Everett Morrison 427 Cobra 460 4-speed, 9-inch 4wdiscs Black w/Gold Stripes
The only practical choice I've heard about along that line is the B&W Turnover Ball gooseneck hitch with the B&W Companion 5er hitch. That combo will cost you over $1,000 plus installation. It works great, but no better than my Reese 16k classic 5er hitch, which costs several hundred dollars less than the B&W Companion combo.
If the thought of the bed rails in the bed really bothers you, mine has been in there over 6 years with absolutely no problem. The only irritant they have caused me is when I want to haul "pea" gravel without going to the trouble of covering up the bedrails with a tarp or drop cloth of some sort. The gravel gets inside the bed rails and is very hard to clean out without removing the bedrails.
But removing the bedrails is no big deal. It takes me probably less than 30 minutes to remove the 8 bolts, remove the bedrails, clean up the bed, and reinstall the bedrails with the 8 bolts. I've done that only once in over 6 years, but not because it's hard. I just don't haul pea gravel in the bed very often. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]
If you don't tow the 5er very often, then you could simply remove the bedrails completely after the trip, then put them back in when you need to tow again. Again, it's only 8 bolts, and mine are all accessable from the rear wheel wells, so it's no big deal.
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My Sierra Blanca is a '99.5 PSD CrewCab hot-rod Towing Machine! BTS tranny; TurboRamAir intake and 4" stainless turbo-back exhaust; DP-Tuner tunes flashed into an Edge Evolution tuner; ISSPRO EV gauges and TTM; AIC; SP-Diesel exhaust brake and torque converter controller. I special-ordered it new and plan to drive it until it quits.
I'm using a gooseneck system made by PopUp Industries. The RV1 adapter attaches to the pin on the 5th wheel and therefore remains with the unit. The Ball in the bed of the truck is stored upside down when not in use, thus leaving a flat clear bed on your truck.
The whole system is extremely easy to use and hooks up fast. It is self locking so you know you're properly hooked up. I've been using this system for a little over two years now with absolutely no problems.
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2004 F350 Lariat 4WD SRW CC 6.0 PSD Dark Toreador Red/Arizona Beige, Leather Every option but Moon Roof & Kitchen Sink, Fumoto valve, Wildcat 31QBHS 5th wheel
Not sure on the cost, but you can look it up at popuphitch.com. I use a GN extension from them. It's a good product, so I'd imagine the RV1 would also be good quality too.
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2005 Arizona Beige F350 XLT FX4 6.0 CC shortbed, 3.73 ls rear, 18" wheels, Tow Command. Additions: Vent Visors, bug guard, Fumoto Valve, Timbrens. Traded for...
Current Truck -- 2008 Black F350 XLT 4x4, 6.8 V10, CC Long Bed, 4.10 rear, 18" wheels, IBC. Additions: Chrome Step Bars, Chrome door handles, Silver barbed-wire pin stripe, B&W Turnover GN ball
Beware that most RV Manufacturers will void the warranty on your trailer if you use a gooseneck adapter. They "claim" that it places too much stress on the frame. The old Cherokee that I had, I pulled with a Gooseneck adapter. The trailer was very hard to line up and it pulled rough. When I bought our new 34' Cougar I was advised that if I used a Gooseneck adapter that Keystone would void my warranty on the trailer.
I had a B&W Turnover Gooseneck in my truck already and I bought the Companion Hitch ($500 as part of the deal). I love the hitch. It takes about 5 minutes to put in or take out and has NO RAILS or rail holes in the bed.
If your like me (and use your truck for things other than pulling the 5th Wheel)I often haul pallet items in the back of the truck that are loaded with a forklift. You can't slide the pallets in with rails.
JMHO
Firefighter9208
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Early 99 (3/98) Extended Cab F 250 XLT 4X2, PSD, 6 Speed, LWB, SRW. 140,000 miles. LUK Clutch, C-BETR Tow Mirrors, Muffler Delete Pipe, Removed Catalytic Converter, Autometer Dual A Pillar Guages with pre-turbo Pyro and Boost, SCMT 1705 Max Tuner, Tymar Intake from Airflo.com. 265/75/16 Firestone Transforce A/T's. Fumoto Drain Valve.
1971boss. You will get a lot of engineering types who will bash gooseneck systems. Voided warranties---"Only as good as a smart lawyer". The fact remains that there are many of these systems being used out there. I went with PopUp Industries because of their beefy design and ease of use. Check out their website for more information and pricing. I'm happy with mine--no problems whatsoever.
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2004 F350 Lariat 4WD SRW CC 6.0 PSD Dark Toreador Red/Arizona Beige, Leather Every option but Moon Roof & Kitchen Sink, Fumoto valve, Wildcat 31QBHS 5th wheel
The adapter bolts onto the fiver where the pin is located and allows you to use a gooseneck hitch instead of having the big ole fiver hitch in the back of the truck. Some folks can get away with it and others can't.
It's true that some fivers can't take the strain. I've heard stories of stress cracks on the framing of the fivers due to the adapters. The bottom line for me is if the fiver manufacture says their trailers aren't designed to handle it then I wouldn't do it.
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03 F250 SD PSD Lariat 7.3, FX4 Crew Cab Short Box, 3.73 Gears, Auto Tranny, Jody Tipton 80 HP Econo Tune, Turbo Back 4" Exhaust W/5" Tip, Home Made Tymar, Isspro Gauges, T/C Lock Up Switch, 203 Degree Thermostat, Coolant Filter, Upgraded Headlight Wiring Harness, Diode Mod for Dims, Bilstein Shocks, Kenwood Head Unit, Sirius Radio, Valentine 1
You guys bring up a lot of things I didn't consider--especially the info about voiding warranties. I can't imagine someone making these set ups and not putting them through rigorous testings before marketing them to us. Is there a regulating body that is supposed to check on products like this? If so, I wonder what their take is on these hitches and adapters. I guess the bottom line is to first find out who voids the warranties and if there are a pile of them that do that then we will have to think again about what kind of set will suit us. Keep the info coming and we'll have more to ponder!!!! It'll be a few months before we make a real decision and I suppose I need to beat the sales/service people up for some info too. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img]
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2000 F-250SD XLT 7.3 Auto CrewCab Long Bed, Harvest Gold, RoadQuest Boards, Superchips 1705, Ford AIS Filter System w/fender sleeve, Extreme Liner, Ranger RCI-2970,Sirius w/FM relay
2007 3.0 Taurus SEL Arizona Beige Metallic
1971 Boss 351 Mustang Fastback 330HP 4spd. Wimbledon White
1994 Everett Morrison 427 Cobra 460 4-speed, 9-inch 4wdiscs Black w/Gold Stripes
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I suppose I need to beat the sales/service people up for some info too. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img]
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Be leery of the sales folks. They sometimes lead you astray on trying to make a sale. I’ve heard of a few that will tell you just about anything right or wrong just to make the sale.
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03 F250 SD PSD Lariat 7.3, FX4 Crew Cab Short Box, 3.73 Gears, Auto Tranny, Jody Tipton 80 HP Econo Tune, Turbo Back 4" Exhaust W/5" Tip, Home Made Tymar, Isspro Gauges, T/C Lock Up Switch, 203 Degree Thermostat, Coolant Filter, Upgraded Headlight Wiring Harness, Diode Mod for Dims, Bilstein Shocks, Kenwood Head Unit, Sirius Radio, Valentine 1
Yeah, I thought about deleting the sales part but had sent the post already. I've gotten the best info from the service techs themselves when I needed info on my older travel trailers. At least that was the case down here at the places I dealt with. Ya'll have a good holiday weekend and keep the info coming if find anything that might help us make a decision. Thanks again guys.
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2000 F-250SD XLT 7.3 Auto CrewCab Long Bed, Harvest Gold, RoadQuest Boards, Superchips 1705, Ford AIS Filter System w/fender sleeve, Extreme Liner, Ranger RCI-2970,Sirius w/FM relay
2007 3.0 Taurus SEL Arizona Beige Metallic
1971 Boss 351 Mustang Fastback 330HP 4spd. Wimbledon White
1994 Everett Morrison 427 Cobra 460 4-speed, 9-inch 4wdiscs Black w/Gold Stripes
With your set up do you have any problem with it being loose and making a bunch of noise when accelerating or stopping? Has it ever loosened up on you? How often do you pull your 5er? Thanks again.
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2000 F-250SD XLT 7.3 Auto CrewCab Long Bed, Harvest Gold, RoadQuest Boards, Superchips 1705, Ford AIS Filter System w/fender sleeve, Extreme Liner, Ranger RCI-2970,Sirius w/FM relay
2007 3.0 Taurus SEL Arizona Beige Metallic
1971 Boss 351 Mustang Fastback 330HP 4spd. Wimbledon White
1994 Everett Morrison 427 Cobra 460 4-speed, 9-inch 4wdiscs Black w/Gold Stripes
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I'm using a gooseneck system made by PopUp Industries. The RV1 adapter attaches to the pin on the 5th wheel and therefore remains with the unit. The Ball in the bed of the truck is stored upside down when not in use, thus leaving a flat clear bed on your truck.
The whole system is extremely easy to use and hooks up fast. It is self locking so you know you're properly hooked up. I've been using this system for a little over two years now with absolutely no problems.
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I have the same setup. Works pretty well. Just don't forget to lock the ball into place when you flip it up and hook up to a trailer.