Around October 1st I will be hauling a car from NW Wisconsin to Daytona Beach. I own the car. I will be using a U-Haul, one way car hauler with surge brakes.
Any tips, suggestions? I have never hauled anything this heavy before with my truck. I have 118K on my rig. Original shocks and sepentine belt. Should I replace these?
All suggestions will be welcome!
Thanks in advance for your input!
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2001, F250, SC, 7.3, Auto, Short Box, 4X4, Off Road, Hard Tonneau
<font color="green">Toss a spare belt under the seat and roll on.
The engine won't know the car is back there.
For your part, don't forget the car is back there.
Toss the cell phone in the trunk of the car, or better yet, leave it at home; this way, you don't get tempted to be distracted by phone calls and cause a wreck.
Your shocks are used up after 118,000 miles. After putting new ones on, your truck will handle so much better you will be suprised. Put the NEW belt on now, and throw the OLD one under your seat. Checking the tires and psi is a great idea, including the spare. Run the truck over the weight scales empty, and then with the trailer attached. You want to make sure the load and tongue weight are correct, and you adjust this by shifting the car on the trailer. Also, make sure UHaul adjusts the brakes on the trailer before starting your trip. (they may complain a little, but you want the shoes adjusted right before driving accross the country). Also, confirm there is brake fluid in the trailer resovour. Surge brakes, adjusted right, work great. Oh, idealy the trailer will be level on the hitch, as that helps the actuator to work best. You may have to get a different drop hitch insert to accomplish that. When you stop, go back and touch the trailer tire sidewalls. They should each be similar level of hot. Also touch the trailer wheel hubs if possible. If one tire or hub is a LOT hotter than the others, you may be developing a problem that UHaul needs to address along the way. (If only one axle has brakes, those hubs will be hotter than the non-brake axle, because brakes generate heat when used). Take a lug wrench and double check the lug nuts early in the trip. Multi axle trailers can loosen lug nuts if they are not torqued right and the trailer is turned tight frequently, as that causes the wheels to slide sidewise somewhat.
Overall, take your time and enjoy the county. You'll drive through some very pretty parts of the U.S., and you have plenty of truck to do it in. Hope you enjoy it.
For your part, don't forget the car is back there.
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[/ QUOTE ] A u-haul trailer won't let you forget it's back there. Actually I haved towed U-haul car trailers on two occassions, one trailer towed very nice, tracked straight, never swayed. The other one I couldn't go more then 55 mph and it was all over the road, no matter how I moved the load it swayed terrible, and that was a lighter car then the first one that towed great. If you get a good trailer it will be an uneventful trip, if you get a crappy one your in for a fun ride. Go over the trailer before you load it, make sure the car is secured properly, and check your securement at every stop.
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Early 99 F250 Reg Cab 4X4 PSD 6-speed...4" ITP DP 4" Straight Piped, ISSPRO Boost & Pyro Gauges, 2.5 inch leveling kit, 315/75 16 Coopers, 16x10 Eagles, Clamp, homemade Tymar type filter, CCV mod, H/X mod, DI BRV, boost tube, EBPV brake mod, Dynoed 236 hp 570 lb-ft at Kuaffmans 08/04, 237 hp 588 lb-ft at Kuaffmans 10/04 SOLD!!! 01/05
01 Dodge 2500 QC LB... ISSPROS, FASS, Comp tapped, 5" mitres Dyno: 339.53hp 718.86lb-ft at Kuaffmans 04/06
[/ QUOTE ] A u-haul trailer won't let you forget it's back there. Actually I haved towed U-haul car trailers on two occassions, one trailer towed very nice, tracked straight, never swayed. The other one I couldn't go more then 55 mph and it was all over the road, no matter how I moved the load it swayed terrible, and that was a lighter car then the first one that towed great. If you get a good trailer it will be an uneventful trip, if you get a crappy one your in for a fun ride. Go over the trailer before you load it, make sure the car is secured properly, and check your securement at every stop.
[/ QUOTE ]
Every time I have had any trailer sway was when I was in a hurry and didn't take the time to distribute the load right. Usually its either DRAMATICLY too much tongue weight or usually the case is not enough. even though the second car was lighter doesn't mean it was placed on the trailer well.
the other advice from above is VERY sound. Also look over the straps they give you to secure the car to the trailer. I have seen some pretty shotty looking straps on u-haul trailers. wouldn't hurt to buy a couple of straps to secure the rear of the car to the trailer better. every u-haul trailer I have seen just has you loosely loop a piece of chain over a point at the rear of the vehicle.
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00'F350 psd CC Drw 2wd Bright Amber Western Hauler, exhaust brake transfer flow 50 gal tank tool, 30K Cody goose neck hitch, hawk pads, cryo'ed rotors, stainless lines, 380,000 miles
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1993 F-superduty (F-450) 7.3L Gutless non turbo 2x4 Auto, Tire eating S.O.B. 12,750lbs 80,000miles lincoln Vantage 500 Duetz bolted in the back.
1994 7.3 I.D.I.T. factory turbo, auto 2x4 DRW with lots of upgrades, 11 transmissions under 100K factory warranty. 280,000 miles Currently Cavitated and parked.
96 F-800 24'flat 5.9L cummins, 4spd allison juice brakes.
89 F-800 6.6L 5+2 27,00lbs light weight with National 556A crane behind the cab.
2006 T800 KW 550 C-15 18spd 22K front, 52K rears murray ramps, 195" W.B. CA spec heavy haul SOLD
2006 Murray 16 tire professional lowbed SOLD
1996 fetherlite 4 horse GN, Walton 18' 14K tag tilt equipment trailer.
Yeah that chain for the rear of the vehicle is a joke, get at least one, if not two 10,000LBS (I like overkill) straps and strap down the rear properly. Duallie like I said in my first post it wasn't the load it was the trailer, I moved that car back and forth on the trailer, even turned it around and pushed it on backwards (it was a stripped 67 GTO, no engine or tranny, most of the interior gone ect.), it swayed no matter how it was loaded.
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Early 99 F250 Reg Cab 4X4 PSD 6-speed...4" ITP DP 4" Straight Piped, ISSPRO Boost & Pyro Gauges, 2.5 inch leveling kit, 315/75 16 Coopers, 16x10 Eagles, Clamp, homemade Tymar type filter, CCV mod, H/X mod, DI BRV, boost tube, EBPV brake mod, Dynoed 236 hp 570 lb-ft at Kuaffmans 08/04, 237 hp 588 lb-ft at Kuaffmans 10/04 SOLD!!! 01/05
01 Dodge 2500 QC LB... ISSPROS, FASS, Comp tapped, 5" mitres Dyno: 339.53hp 718.86lb-ft at Kuaffmans 04/06
For a while I was towing a Uhaul trailer 2-3 times a week. Never had any problems at all. UHaul trailers are very well made and should not sway at all. After about 100 miles you'll forget its there (except when merging). 6000-7000 lbs really isnt enough weight to worry about.
I wouldnt worry about extra straps/chains. The Uhaul tire straps work very well - the chains are just in case the vehicle decides it wants to get off the trailer by itself.
I'd get a non- UHaul trailer. If not for the maintenance, then for their lack of customer service.
A few weeks ago I rented one to haul an '85 Mercedes diesel car. I even bought the extra 9 dollar insurance. It towed well enough across town to load the car. I checked all the tires, etc, then hit the road. I noticed on the Interstate that it felt like the truck was pulling hard, and my EGTs were kind of high. When I stopped to scale everything, I decided to see if the trailer brakes were dragging. Sure enough, they had been. When I got out of my truck I could smell brakes. Checked the trailer, and the shoes were worn down enough they didnt contact anymore. Great. Now I have 4800 pounds behind me and basically no brakes on it. I got to my destination, unloaded, and started home.
I made it about 30 miles down the Interstate before the trailer started jerking and swaying. I pulled off and found a tire blown. Alright. Things happen. I looked on the trailer and found the emergency number. I called and sat on hold for 45 minutes. I finally spoke to a lady that took my phone number and promised to call me back. While I was waiting, I limped down the shoulder to an exit and a Pilot station about 5 miles away. Half an hour after the lady promised to call me back, she did. She told me that I could wait three to five hours to wait on U-Haul to send a mechanic, or find one myself and they'd reimburse me. Okay.
I went about a mile down the road to a big red barn that said 'Tires'. I called the number outside, and the nicest gentleman in the town of Waverly, TN, got out of his bed and came down to open his shop and fix my flat tire. Not only that, but he only charged me 35.00, as compared to a road service that wanted 125 just to show up.
I took the trailer back on Sunday morning, and explained my situation. I had my tire reciept, my call number with U-Haul customer support, and the blown out tire pieces. They asked me how fast I was going when the tire blew. I was cruising down the Interstate, between 65 and 70 MPH. Guess what they said?
"Well, the trailer has a speed limit of 45 MPH. You exceeded that, so it's your fault." They charged my credit card for the full rental amount, and basically told me they didnt care about the brakes, or the tire. I would check with Budget rental for a trailer. I dont know if they're any better or not, but at least they're unproven, where U-Haul has proven that they dont care.
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