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Old 08-11-2008, 02:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Max trailer length?

I'm window shopping for an enclosed race car hauler since I've been borrowing one for years and it's time for my own. There seems to be an abundance of larger trailers available at reasonable prices. I would like to have enough room for the car, a 4 wheeler/golf cart, generator, workbench, tools etc.

Is there any "rule of thumb" when it comes to trailer length, or just the usual tongue/pin weight stuff? I usually use a 28ft, but was looking at tandem axle 32s and up to 48' tri axles.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-11-2008, 02:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I believe it is different for each province/state. I'd check with the DOT before buying anything.
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Old 08-11-2008, 03:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm more concerned about the ability for my vehicle to handle it, whatever the vehicle may be. ie: Most guys pulling the big 48 footers are pulling with DRWs.

I don't see myself getting into a 48 foot trailer, but the 28-34ft range has my attention.
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Old 08-11-2008, 04:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes, check with the DOT for each province/state into which you plan to take the trailer.
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2005 Nomad Rampage toyhauler made by Skyline. 11,500lb gvwr.
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Old 08-11-2008, 04:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Guys, you're missing the mark here. I'm not looking for trailer lenght laws.

I'm looking for towing "rules of thumb" or "experience" with trailers like this.

Ie:
Is a 32 ft tag trailer stable?
Should I be looking at a gooseneck instead?
At what point does upgrading truck need to be taken into consideration?

That sort of thing. I don't think I'm articulating what I'm looking for very well.
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Old 08-11-2008, 05:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Be sure to check the trailer hitch weight, not just the hitch weight of the empty trailer, but the hitch weight when it is loaded with everything that you plan to carry. Tag hitches tend to have around 10% of the loaded trailer weight as hitch weight. Fifth wheel and gooseneck may be around 20% of the loaded trailer weight as hitch weight.

Check the gvwr on the plate on the bottom of the driver's side door post in your truck. For example, if it says 8,800 lbs gvwr, and your pickup truck loaded with fuel, passengers, and gear weighs 7,800 lbs, then you have 1000 lbs left for hitch weight. That would allow about a 5,000 lb trailer if the hitch weight is 20%, or a 10,000 lb trailer if the hitch weight is 10%. Most of the 48 foot trailers fully loaded weigh a lot more than that. That is why you usually see them being pulled by at least a dual rear wheel F350.

My dual rear wheel F350 has gvwr of 11,500 lbs, and weighs about 8,000 lbs loaded with fuel and passengers; so I can carry about 3,500 lbs of hitch weight.

In your case, if you want to pull more than about a 5,000 lb trailer, then you would be better with a tag hitch rather than fifth wheel or gooseneck. Fifth wheel and gooseneck trailers are very stable when you have a truck that is capable of carrying the weight, but with an F250, the brakes are not adequate for more than about 5,000 lbs of fifth wheel or gooseneck trailer.

With only 10% hitch weight, you should be able to pull up to about a 10,000 lb tag hitch trailer. Because a greater percentage of the weight is carried on the trailer axles, the trailer axles will provide better braking on a tag hitch trailer compared to a fifth wheel or gooseneck trailer. Be sure to use a high-quality weight distributing hitch.

I don't think that the length of the trailer will be the limiting factor in your case. As long as it is legal where you plan to pull it, I think that you can go for the longest trailer that you can find that is still light enough for your truck.
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2005 Nomad Rampage toyhauler made by Skyline. 11,500lb gvwr.
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Old 08-11-2008, 05:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Be sure to check the trailer hitch weight, not just the hitch weight of the empty trailer, but the hitch weight when it is loaded with everything that you plan to carry. Tag hitches tend to have around 10% of the loaded trailer weight as hitch weight. Fifth wheel and gooseneck may be around 20% of the loaded trailer weight as hitch weight.

Check the gvwr on the plate on the bottom of the driver's side door post in your truck. For example, if it says 8,800 lbs gvwr, and your pickup truck loaded with fuel, passengers, and gear weighs 7,800 lbs, then you have 1000 lbs left for hitch weight. That would allow about a 5,000 lb trailer if the hitch weight is 20%, or a 10,000 lb trailer if the hitch weight is 10%. Most of the 48 foot trailers fully loaded weigh a lot more than that. That is why you usually see them being pulled by at least a dual rear wheel F350.

My dual rear wheel F350 has gvwr of 11,500 lbs, and weighs about 8,000 lbs loaded with fuel and passengers; so I can carry about 3,500 lbs of hitch weight.

In your case, if you want to pull more than about a 5,000 lb trailer, then you would be better with a tag hitch rather than fifth wheel or gooseneck. Fifth wheel and gooseneck trailers are very stable when you have a truck that is capable of carrying the weight, but with an F250, the brakes are not adequate for more than about 5,000 lbs of fifth wheel or gooseneck trailer.

With only 10% hitch weight, you should be able to pull up to about a 10,000 lb tag hitch trailer. Because a greater percentage of the weight is carried on the trailer axles, the trailer axles will provide better braking on a tag hitch trailer compared to a fifth wheel or gooseneck trailer. Be sure to use a high-quality weight distributing hitch.

I don't think that the length of the trailer will be the limiting factor in your case. As long as it is legal where you plan to pull it, I think that you can go for the longest trailer that you can find that is still light enough for your truck.
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2005 Nomad Rampage toyhauler made by Skyline. 11,500lb gvwr.
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Old 08-11-2008, 06:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I had a featherlite 28' and we hauled a 24' dragster, golfcart, scooter and two 1/4 scale dragsters. I had a 20" work bench across the front with a cabinet under it. One jr. went on the work bench with the front propped up to the ceiling then would back the dragster in and shove the nose to the road side, put a jr next to it curb side, then put the golf cart in the back. I towed this set up with a 35' gulfstream endura on a 4500 kodiak chassis. My f350 towed this set up to on occasion, no need for load leveler bars or any sway control when using the pickup, the motorhome had air bags.

If you are towing with your SD I would try to find an aluminum trailer and stay away from extra hieght as it will only catch the wind more.

I'd also stay away from anything over 29' in a bumper tag.

You can fit a whole lot in a 28'

I have been looking for a 42-44' all aluminum gooseneck to build a toy hauler/camper combo. I will not own another steel trailer.

just my opinion.
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If I wanted betterr MPG I'd buy one of those tiny tire, low to the ground light duty bowties.
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Old 08-11-2008, 06:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
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like the poster above mention your hitch pin weight is important as you know and since you are putting a car in it you can move it forward or back to adjust this. What kind of race car do you have?
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If I wanted betterr MPG I'd buy one of those tiny tire, low to the ground light duty bowties.
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Old 08-11-2008, 09:04 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I tow a 28' Pace Daytona enclosed car trailer. I can load my race car (corvette ZR-1) in the trailer and a pit bike or ATV in front of the car. With my trailer full and the truck loaded up I weighed in just over 19K total.
I wouldn't want to tow more than a 28' tag with my F-250. There is plenty of tq and brakes, but the trailer can start moving a bit and it makes me uncomfortable. I do load the trailer properly using my Sherline scale. I also use an Equalizer weight distribution system and the CAT scales to ensure everything is good.
If I was going with a tag longer than 28' I would at least want a DRW truck. If I had a DRW truck, then I would get a GN/5th wheel setup.

BTW, my trailer is for sale and posted on racingjunk.com. $10K
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Old 08-11-2008, 11:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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This is the kind of info I'm looking for guys, keep it coming! THANK YOU! I talked to my buddy who owns the trailer I've been using and it's 24ft inside, 28ft from tongue to tail. However, it does have the raised roof option. Not sure I'd go for it since I don't find much benefit since I'm not tall enough

Boss, here's a pic:



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Old 08-12-2008, 12:17 AM   #12 (permalink)
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We've pulled a 24ft trailer in NYC with a bus - that's as much as I would do in the city. As long as your not towing your trailer with a bus in NYC - your 250 should handle a tag alittle longer than that!

Btw, I posted this from my sidekick!
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Old 08-12-2008, 01:32 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Fifth wheel and gooseneck trailers are very stable when you have a truck that is capable of carrying the weight, but with an F250, the brakes are not adequate for more than about 5,000 lbs of fifth wheel or gooseneck trailer.
Can you elaborate? Are you saying without trailer brakes?

I have hauled our Bobcat many times with my 01 F150 that only has a class V hitch.....hualed it like it was born to do it!

Just curious....

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Old 08-12-2008, 09:12 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm a little curious too, considering the 250 and 350 of my vintage have the same brakes.
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Old 08-12-2008, 09:45 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Can you elaborate? Are you saying without trailer brakes?
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but with an F250, the brakes are not adequate for more than about 5,000 lbs of fifth wheel or gooseneck trailer.
That's a pant-load. First, it's rare to find a 2500+ trailer without brakes---it's the law in most states. Second, most all 3 and 4 horse slant load gooseneck horse and stock trailers loaded weigh at least 7 to 10,000 loaded and guys (including myself) pull them all over the nation with F250s. With working trailer brakes plus the pickup brakes they're perfectly safe behind an F-250. I've also had a total of about 11,000 on my 20' gooseneck flatbed and with it's big two axle brakes and the controller adjusted right I've got more than adequate braking for the long downgrades in this country or a panic stop. And I'm not one of the FruitCakes that gets on here and brags about how I can overload my trailers.
Blk88GT, one thing you want to be aware of with a relatively long pull-type or gooseneck is trailer axle placement. I see quite a few around with the axles WAY to the rear and that makes your hitch/tongue weight way too much for a 3/4 ton. If you don't need bed space and have the option, I think most guys here that have towed a bunch will agree, a gooseneck or 5th wheel is the way to go, especially if you need a longer type trailer. As far as stability, you don't even know they're back there. I used to tow a lot across the far western states and the 4 pickup/trailer towing wrecks I unfortunately came across at different times were all pull trailers, not gooseneck/5th wheels.
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Last edited by LMJD : 08-12-2008 at 10:03 AM.
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