Bit of advice here for weight distribution adjustment. When I do mine I use the trailer tongue jack (powered) to lift the rear of the truck some. That in turn helps make it easier to put some power down on the bars. Then lower the rear of the truck and they will be nice and tight.
Adjust like Smokey said and it should be fine. In the end you need to use
the washers to adjust the angle of the hitch head so that the bars will be
parallel with the trailer frame when all tightened up. Takes many tries to
get it just right.
I had mine all adjusted and could travel at any speed with no sway... BUT
a big truck would just about push me off the road. The torque of all that wind
against the 32-ft TT really pushed. Said forget it and got the Hensley, now
there are no problems with trucks or wind. I had the Reese dual cam
setup, now it is in a box in the garage for when I sell the TT. Hensley will
come off and Reese back on. Never knew towing could be so easy.
I have a 38' TT and had a terrible sway problem with the WD setup. I had to put a couple of bags of quickcrete under the bed in the front to add tongue weight. I also bought the reese dual cam sway control and it eliminated the sway.
HTH
Leroy
try using a sway control setup i tow a 30' also and have to use a sway control or iam all over the road and dont try to pass a semi its scarry but w/ the sway control their s no problem at all its like its not even their at 70mph
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02 f250 4x4 w/ a 7.3 it has a 4in exhaust from the turbo back, s&b cold air intake, hyper junk stage 3 programmer, idm mod, foil delete mod w/ polished boost tubes, fuel cross over, hpx line, torque converter lock up mod, cvc mod, magnatec trans pan 4qrt over, 6in lift w/ 315 75 r16 bfg all terrains.
I have the Reese Dual Cam HP and I love it. My camper is 9200lbs and I used the Reese on my F250 SWB 7.3l and now on my 350 dually. Works great and have never experienced any sway on either trucks.
My adjustments from the F250 4x4 with 33" tires, to the F350 4x4 dually was drop from the 4th chain link to the 5th. Pulls perfectly.
Hope this helps.
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'07 Ford F350 CC DRW 4x4 FX4 Regency Conversion(loaded)
Line-X, B&W Gooseneck with 5th wheel companion
thanks for the input guys, I also posted a question about this on an RV forum and I have been receiving a lot of PM's from the members there placing all the blame on my truck.
I have been in contact with the Jacyo dealer we bought from and they don't seem to want to do anything... oh well I guess
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2002 F-350 XLT 7.3, SRW, Crewcab,
Yaesu 7800 Dual Band,
Children's Band Radio,
ISSPRO Gauges
DIY Tymar Intake,
Straight Pipe,
Wicked Wheel,
ATS Housing,
Turbomaster,
IC Foil Wrap Delete,
TC Lockup Switch,
Hypertech Power Programmer III,
Flux Capacitor,
Uranium P-32 explosive space modulator,
High torque muffler bearings.
I have the equalizer hitch, and it has worked fantastic for me so far. It's much less expensive than the Hensley Arrow. I tow an 11,500 lb tag hitch toy hauler.
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2001 F350 XLT 4X4, shift on the fly, 38 gal fuel tank, running boards, sliding rear window, black, crew cab, long bed, 4.10, automatic transmission, 11,500 gvwr, 20,000 gcwr, 7500 gvw, dual rear wheels, 7.3l turbo diesel, completely stock, 114,00 miles when purchased, now has 125,000 miles, repairs so far: starter, batteries, cps.
2005 Nomad Rampage toyhauler made by Skyline. 11,500lb gvwr.
thanks for the input guys, I also posted a question about this on an RV forum and I have been receiving a lot of PM's from the members there placing all the blame on my truck.
I have been in contact with the Jacyo dealer we bought from and they don't seem to want to do anything... oh well I guess
i dont believe youll find this unusual--they sold it--they made their money--goodbye!!!
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
I have the equalizer hitch, and it has worked fantastic for me so far. It's much less expensive than the Hensley Arrow. I tow an 11,500 lb tag hitch toy hauler.
Hook a Hensley to it sometime... You will see why yours is cheaper
I have had only one dealer step up and help me once a bought, I have
used them from then on for every purchase.
Loading is critical for most all towing. You will get used to how it tows in
given situations and load it as needed to correct. Even with a dual-cam
setup you will have to load correctly. A few runs to the scale like you have
done can really be telling.
My last weigh without being travel loaded(more weight on the tongue
when loaded up). Empty tanks:
Trailer axles: 8080
Trailer Tongue: 980 (about 10%)
Trailer total: 9060
I didn't take the time to read all the replies, so I hope this hasn't been covered. Maybe it is your axel alignment on your new trailer. I just picked up a used tri-axel toy hauler, it had one tire that was wearing funny. I took it to a reputible tire shop that service everything from cars to big trucks. They recomened doing an axel alignment. They found that the axel with the tire problem was way out of alignment and they found that one other axel needed a small adjustment. All said and done some of my trail sway whent away after the trailer axels were aligned.
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'95 F250 PSD, 345,000 miles, 4x4, XLT, Supper Cab, long box, E4OD by BTS & B&M tranny cooler, 4:10, add a leaf front/1.5" rearched spings rear, Hypermax DP, tymark intake. Cobra Nightstalker 29 CB mounted inplace of the ash-tray, Tekonsha Prodigy. Pulling a 37 bumper hitch toy hauler & my dog Studly in the box. New injectors @ 335,000 Best mod: the U.S. flag in the back window done pre 9/11.
Ran into a similiar problem. Truck wandered all over the road with a new trailer (28ft approx 7500lbs). Rolled it through the scales at work and got these number (by memory):
14% of trailer weight on hitch (remember-by memory)
Had the dealer tighten up the WD hitch with one more washer to transfer a bit more weight to the steer axle...drives like a dream. I have not ran it back through the scales yet to see the final outcome.
Will report back with the all the weights next week...gotta break in the trailer this week.. whoo hoo!
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2004 F-250, 6.0 (stock), CC SWB Lariet, 4x4, Silver, ARE tonneu cover, chrome grill, upgrade wiring harness for headlights (WOW , I can see....)
If the trailer sways like you describe, then I would load the trailer heavy on the front end. You can adjust your load as you fill your gray water tanks. I'll bet that will work.
The logger
In my experiences, not having enough tongue weight will make a trailer sway. Maybe the design of the trailer doesn't put enough weight up front. You might be able to put luggage, bottled water, or other heavy items up front. If your truck towed fine with another trailer, I would think the truck is not your problem. At work we pull a 10,000 lb forklift and 3800 lb. scissor lift on an equipment trailer, and if it is not pulled up on the trailer far enough, you'll know it as soon as you get on the highway. One of the trucks at work is a 2005 Chevy 2500 with sensitive steering that makes a trailer move around more than the 2000 Chevy does. At home, I tow a 34' 8000 lb. travel trailer behind my F350 dually without any bars or sway control crap and have never had a problem with it. I think its funny when guys say "you can't even tell the trailer is back there". Maybe people do forget they are towing sometimes and drive the same way as if they didn't have a lot of weight dragging behind them. I expect to feel a little movement (like when passing a oncoming semi truck in a tunnel), but I would only consider something as sway if the trailer wiggles back and forth more than once or twice. I always fill my water tank when I get to the site, and dump the tanks before I leave, so that I'm not pulling around extra weight.
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86 F350 XL Crew DRW 6.9 C6 3.55 180,000 mi. Push button 12V G.P., ram air, electric fuel pump, custom-built aluminum utility bed with a 33 gal fuel tank from an Isuzu NPR. Former Florida state highway maintenance truck. Cheez Whiz yellow. Tow vehicle for my 34' 8000 lb. travel trailer. Gear Vendors, Hypermax turbo, and air bags ready to install! Gets me where I need to go, just not quietly or quickly. (should be getting more power soon!)
I have a 23' enclosed car hauler-toy hauler (28' overall). It weighs in at 7500#'s loaded with toys. I have 1100-1200#'s tongue weight and I'm still within limilts on all axles. It is a bear to tow with any head wind or when a semi passes. I'm constantly steering to keep it straight. I've got the bars tightened right up and have air bags. I chaulk it up to being a flat square front with no areodynamics.
I've towed a lot heavier loads with less tongue weight that have handled better. I've also had trailers that don't have enough tongue wieght and they want to dart all over the place and are scary to tow. They will throw you all over the road!!
In my opinion, keep lots of tongue weight (within allowable limits for tires and axle) and keep in mind that you have a trialer behind you.
I really believe that the aerodynamics of any given trailer has a lot to do with the way they tow.
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Early 99 F-250 Superduty X/C SB, 6 speed, South Bend Con OFE clutch, 4" turbo back exhaust, Ebpv Brake Mod, DIY Tymar, Hutch Mod, 2" leveling kit, 315/75/16's, DP tuner (stock, 60tow, 80econo, 120race, 140extreme), Warn premium hubs, Autometer pyro, boost and fuel pressure gauges.
76' (updated) E series 24' Motorhome - 89' 7.3IDI w/ATS turbo, ZF 5 speed, LUK clutch, Borg Warner 1356 transfercase, dana 60 front, 3.73 gears, 245/75/16, 4x4.thumbsup:
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