1.) Do you guys happen to know what the color schema is for the ford side of the connector on the factory wiring harness for an electric brake controller? I have a used 2000 F-250 and the previous owner cut the factory plug off and wired the controller in manually. There are 5- wires
1. Dark Blue- To trailer brakes?
2. White- Ground?
3. Black- ?? ( stop light sinal or power)
4. Red- ?? ( stop light or power)
5. Blue/red trace- Controller Illumination
2.)I can not get any power out of the existing harness... I have checked all the fuses in the power distribution box (no.28) under the hood and switched relays around in case one is bad. I am really at a loss.....
I think you have the customer assecory wires confused with the trailer brake harness. At least in my 01 what you describe are my customer wires. The factory plug is hidden ?? go figure. Take of the driver kick panel and to the right of the steering wheel up under near the back of the radio on a pillar support you will find a (I believe) gray plug. This is what you need. It's not easy to find or reach but it should be there. Good luck and hope this helps.
Now if you feel like another challenge try looking for the block heater plug!!!!!! OOPS, that should be a new thread.
I'm sure someone with pictures will chime in and it will be easier!!
Thanks for the input, but I'm sure the factory plug has been removed. I have installed electronic controllers on a couple of super duties........... I was hoping someone could save me the trouble of tracking one down and cross checking the color codes.
As to my second problem, I can not get any power out of the factory harness. Does anyone know if the factory wiring runs through a specific relay? I have swapped all of the relaies in the power distribution box under the hood with no luck. I tried an contunity check from my plug to the blue(to trailer brake) wire under the dash and get an open circuit... go figure. This would seem to indicate an burnt harness or broken wire. The harness looks good and I am basically at a loss [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
To get everything powered, you have 4 things you have to add/replace under the hood. In the main power distribution box, there are 2 30-amp "maxi" fuses (I think #16 and #28) that have to be present. Number 16 enables the auxiliary 12V line for charging a trailer battery (usable if you have a 7 or 6 pin trailer connector). Number 28 runs the electronic brake controller power circuit and that is what is probably missing or dead.
You will also see under the hood, right next to the master cylinder and adjacent to the power distribution box, 1 or 2 smaller relay boxes. You will have 2 boxes if your truck is 4x4 and ESOF. In that instance, the box closest to the front of the truck holds 2 relays that run the electric shift motor in the NVG 273 transfer case. The small box closest to your firewall is the one you want. It probably is missing 2 relays. In the onwers' manual, these are numbered 38 and 39, but they are not numbered under the hood. Those 2 relays run the trailer backup lamps and the trailer battery charge (you have to have both the #16 fuse and this relay present to get the aux. 12v to work.
Inside the cab, make sure #13, a 20 amp mini, is present. I'm sure it is, or your cruise control wouldn't work, but it also runs the trailer stop lamps. Check also #28, 10 amps. It energizes the relay under the hood for trailer backup lamps, among other functions.
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2000 F250 7.3L PSD 4x4: Zoodad; Amsoil BM16 Dual Bypass; 6 Autometer Z-Series (A-pillar and under cubby); Sonnax Valve & Tricumulator Springs; Magnefine (tranny); Moog greasable ball joints; AFE Stage 2 + PG7; DPP 4" SS Exhaust; Hx Crossover Hose; Rhino-liner; 2003 Headlights and turn signals retrofitted; Pre-pump and tank mods; Econoline Fuel Drain Mod; Victor Wood Steering Wheel; Excursion Limited Wood Console Lid; Excursion sound insulating panels; HuskyLiners; MAP line with overboost pop-off; 2003 Mirrors; 2003 PSD Badges; NFab 2-step Nerf Bars; 750W Inverter in console; 130A Alternator; Baldwin Coolant Filter; Warn Premium Locking Hubs; DI 4-way chip; A.R.T. Slotted Rotors and Performance Pads; Purple Cranium Differential Guards; Superlift TruSpeed; 6" Edge Lift on 37's by Truck Toyz
Thanks for the help.... I appreciate you're response.
I have checked all the maxi fuses in the power distribution box under the hood including #28. I have also swapped the relays in both of the small boxes you mention with no luck. Does anyone know how to test these types of relays? All of the fuses inside the cab also check out fine and are present. I am really starting to pull my hair out over this one and am begining to suspect a bad or broken wire in the wiring harness. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
Hopefully I will get a chance to work on it this weekend and will pass along anything I find out.
I have checked every fuze and relay in the whole truck!! I don't know if there is a way to test the relays but I have swapped them around... they all have the same number so I assume they are interchangeable. I think I am just going to install the controller the old fashioned way and to heck with the factory harness!!
The fuse you ar looking for is in the top part of the fuse panel in the truck. It is powered all the time. Email me on this site and ill give phone number.
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