I need to get a hitch put on the back of my 28'travel trailer to tow a boat behind it. The boat is 16' and I am guessing weight to be about 2000-2500 lbs. Trailer weighs 5500 dry and about 8000 loaded. I don't know if there are kits to do this as my dad had mentioned a bolt on kit that hooks to the rear bumper of the trailer. This doesn't sound that safe to me and I was thinking I'd rather have a hitch that ties into the trailers frame somehow. What are my options and how should I go about doing this? Would this work http://www.reese-hitches.com/step_bumper_hitch.htm
Also I think I will put some sway control on one of these for the boat http://www.reese-hitches.com/sway_controls.htm the bar at the top of the page, and the best sway control at the bottom of the page for my trailer. Sound good?
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'96 250 ext cab,7.3 PSD,4x4,off road,120k,auto,dp,Tymar,Gauges,Sirius radio
Some states allow doubles if the front trailer is a fifth wheel, some allow doubles with a travel trailer in the lead and some do not allow it at all. I would check to see what is permitted where you are.
Next, you will need to see if your trailer has a heavy enough frame under the back (many do not) to support a hitch and boat.
As for someone to install one, I would look to a truck trailer repair shop. They are familiar with weights, welding, fabrication, structure and so on. You can buy just the square tube and build or have built your own hitch (the one on the back of my truck is a fabricated hitch - there is a picture in my gallery) or modify an existing "universal" style hitch to do the job.
Good luck with it.
Dave / Believer45
__________________ THANK YOU to all the heroes in our military and all the heroes at home who wait for their safe return. I am humbled by and grateful for your service and sacrifice.
'95 F250 ext cab long bed, PSD, 5 speed manual, two wheel drive, 3.55 gears, LUK clutch conversion, 450 lb homemade REAR BUMPER, homemade open element AIR FILTER, aluminum bed cap. With me in the cab (285#) and full of fuel weighs 6,580 lbs (steer 3420 drive 3160)
Well now that I think about it I don't think my travel trailer has a strong enough frame for it. I remember asking the dealer about it and he didn't think it could. Would one of those truck trailer repair shops be able to strengthen it so it could?
My tailer is a Cherokee Lite model 28A made by Forest River.
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'96 250 ext cab,7.3 PSD,4x4,off road,120k,auto,dp,Tymar,Gauges,Sirius radio
A good trailer shop could put whatever you want under your travel trailer, from sticking a hitch on the rear to putting a full frame under your existing box. The only question is the cost.
Dave / Believer45
__________________ THANK YOU to all the heroes in our military and all the heroes at home who wait for their safe return. I am humbled by and grateful for your service and sacrifice.
'95 F250 ext cab long bed, PSD, 5 speed manual, two wheel drive, 3.55 gears, LUK clutch conversion, 450 lb homemade REAR BUMPER, homemade open element AIR FILTER, aluminum bed cap. With me in the cab (285#) and full of fuel weighs 6,580 lbs (steer 3420 drive 3160)
Another thing I would do first off is contact Forest River and talk to them about what you want to do. They have engineers who can help with this if you can run them down and get them on the phone.
Dave / Believer45
__________________ THANK YOU to all the heroes in our military and all the heroes at home who wait for their safe return. I am humbled by and grateful for your service and sacrifice.
'95 F250 ext cab long bed, PSD, 5 speed manual, two wheel drive, 3.55 gears, LUK clutch conversion, 450 lb homemade REAR BUMPER, homemade open element AIR FILTER, aluminum bed cap. With me in the cab (285#) and full of fuel weighs 6,580 lbs (steer 3420 drive 3160)
Believer thanks alot for the advice. I really appreaciate it. That is a good idea about calling Forest River. Also I drove down and picked up the trailer this afternoon and the frame looks good and solid. and runs all the way back to the bumper the same thickness, looks strong. I called a few RV shops around here (Denver) and they all send their work out to a place called Lampert Hitch so I will go there and see what they say on Monday as well. Thanks again I'll let you know how it works out.
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'96 250 ext cab,7.3 PSD,4x4,off road,120k,auto,dp,Tymar,Gauges,Sirius radio
On my TT I fabricated my own, I welded C-channel between the I-beam frame, and then welded the hitch tube to that. Worked out great.
On current 5th, our RV dealer welded basically the same thing to the rear frame.
If you have access to a welder, it wouldn't cost more than $70 in chanel iron or box tubing. If not, there are plenty of custom hitch shops around denver that will do a good job. I wouldn't pay much more than $300, preferably closer to $200.
If you would like photos of my set up, PM me.
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'01 F350 Lariat PSD 4X4 CC SWR LB auto
Superchip 60hp, 4" cat back, A-pillar w/auto meter gages, Firestone Air bags, Bilsteins, Radio Speed Volume Mod, XM Roady Photos
[ QUOTE ]
On my TT I fabricated my own, I welded C-channel between the I-beam frame, and then welded the hitch tube to that. Worked out great.
On current 5th, our RV dealer welded basically the same thing to the rear frame.
If you have access to a welder, it wouldn't cost more than $70 in chanel iron or box tubing. If not, there are plenty of custom hitch shops around denver that will do a good job. I wouldn't pay much more than $300, preferably closer to $200.
If you would like photos of my set up, PM me.
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Well shoot I wish I knew how to weld I would do your setup as well. I called Lampert Hitch and they referred me to a place called Cowboy Metal. I told him how my frame goes solid all the way to the back and he said I would need the minimum install then and it would cost $575 to weld one up [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img] I really didn't want to pay that much. If you know of anyone in Denver or Colorado Springs that can do this cheaper let me know Thanks.
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'96 250 ext cab,7.3 PSD,4x4,off road,120k,auto,dp,Tymar,Gauges,Sirius radio
My '94 Coachmen 26FK had a 2 bicycle rack and a spare tire mounted on the bumper. The weight extended out over the rear, along with the bouncing caused the bumper to tear off of the frame.
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'93 F-250, - most original at 252K miles, rebuilt E4OD 220K miles
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