New trailer - Need ramps - Diesel Forum

lone_star_dsl · 02-23-2007, 06:02 PM

I just got a new (to me) gooseneck. The deck seems a little less than 3' from the ground. I will be loading skid steers on this trailer and was wondering if anyone has any info as to how long the ramps should be.

Thanks

BTW - Is a 40' trailer too long for one skid steer? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

neepsjeeps · 02-23-2007, 06:33 PM

its 3 ft up to where the ramps will mount? no dovetail? i would think they would need to be around 5ft long at that height
what i should say is im assuming you would build the flip up triangular kind, they would probably be 5ft long 3ft tall and the tread would be whatever 7ft or so(im too lazy to do the math right now) unless you could modify the deck and make it dovetail some at the rear, if you have a welder and cutting torch often thats not a huge deal...

RatherBNtheWoods · 02-23-2007, 07:05 PM

I make ramps 1 1/2 to 2 times longer than the trailer is at the mounting point. Depending on what will be loaded onto the trailer. I would measure the hieght just for fun, because 36" is a shade tall to carry anything heavy on. Actually that is a pretty tall trailer in general.

TXGooseneck · 02-23-2007, 07:05 PM

Skid steer going up a 5' ramp would dump backwards. 8' ramps on a flatbed is still spooky with a skid steer, but the min. length you want.

enginebill · 02-23-2007, 10:34 PM

My trailer is 36" high and I made my ramps 10' long, any shorter and I think they would be too short. They are oak and are 13" wide and 2 1/2" thick, you can see them under my White truck.

trailer

NickKent · 02-24-2007, 11:02 AM

I'd say 8' minimum. and then you'll need a forklift to move them around.

JimTJr · 02-24-2007, 12:02 PM

Nah, 40' is just right!!! What ever you feel you need! I also would use nothing less than 8' for that height of trailer, (also seems pretty darned high to me... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img])
I guess it's a "Deck Over"? the "flip up ramps with the triangle type base would be best, no really hard lifting.
Or fabricate some "Slide outs" where you pull them out, and just hold the end,,,and lift up to set inplace... (My Take three wedge has those, and my Kaufmann 32' flat bed car trailer.) Ones for a skid loader though would have to be PRETTY heavy duty.. I think a skid steer weighs more than 6k,, right? Otherwise THESE look pretty hefty!! When I just found them with "google" I thought Those would work, then I saw the weight rating!! (suprised me some,,) I GUESS you could make a brace for the middle of them and it would help imensly,,and probably work for the skid steer then. Ramps that long out of steel will be pretty danged heavy,,,as mentioned above!

lone_star_dsl · 02-24-2007, 03:04 PM

I wonder if the weight rating is for a pair or just a single ramp.

Fortunately, I am a young gun and dont really mind having to lift a 100 lb ramp...yet. My buddy has a set of 8' ramps at his shop and I am going to see how those work.

I also got a measurement on the deck. It is 36".

sgrem · 02-27-2007, 12:08 AM

i have 8ft ramps on my gn and they work great. pm and my shop can build you a set if you need. i have loaded machines up to 15,500. made them out of heavy c chanel and heavy angle iron. with slides to accept them in all my trailers. too heavy to move them around. definately take short wheel base equipment like a skid steer up backwards. only way to do it or they will go over backwards. i have taken a huge skid steer that weighed over 10k up my ramps and it was only like 10 ft long. if you load whatever slightly forward of center of the axles it wont buck to bad. you have to learn where your trailer likes the heavy load.

larry_minn · 02-27-2007, 12:44 AM

[ QUOTE ]
I just got a new (to me) gooseneck. The deck seems a little less than 3' from the ground. I will be loading skid steers on this trailer and was wondering if anyone has any info as to how long the ramps should be.

Thanks

BTW - Is a 40' trailer too long for one skid steer? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[/ QUOTE ]

There are lots of (tricks) you should learn for loading hauling. First as you are doing ask others and think it thru first. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
I have a beaver tail/end drop/etc (call it what you will) Still if possible keep deck as close to ground as possible. (without measuring just guess from memory) I have 5' ramps (angle iron) and deck is 16" above ground. I could measure in morning but no reason.
Anyway I still like to use natural (raises) I.E. if parking lot back up to a curb and (if allowed) drop ramps on curb. (good 8" higher then ground) so it is dang near level. Or a ditch (with your height I would seriously look at driving/backing up to ditch and loading off road) Check out local machinery dealers. (most have built up earthan ramps) and/or build one yourself with skid loader. (3 railroad ties high filled with dirt on a angle would be high enough for safely loading IMO.
As said normally you drive just ahead of trailer axles till you feel weight shift to hitch/truck. (I go slightly more then chain front with no binder and back up unit till chain is taught. Then I chain rear with load binder. Often use a couple 10k straps as extra and drive short distance (20 miles or before I go on interstate) and check straps/chains/retighten.
Keep in mind you might get idiot DOT who will attempt to write you up for "Unsecured load" because he saw you adjusting straps. (Yep it happened and idiot didn't know law and wasted time in court getting ticket taken care of and DOT educated)
Anyway if one does pull over and ask "Did you tighten that binder" The correct answer is "Nope, I just saw it was scratching paint so I moved it/put a pad to protect paint"
I always wind up taking another notch when I check loads.

JimTJr · 02-27-2007, 10:09 AM

[ QUOTE ]
Keep in mind you might get idiot DOT who will attempt to write you up for "Unsecured load" because he saw you adjusting straps. (Yep it happened and idiot didn't know law and wasted time in court getting ticket taken care of and DOT educated)
Anyway if one does pull over and ask "Did you tighten that binder" The correct answer is "Nope, I just saw it was scratching paint so I moved it/put a pad to protect paint"
I always wind up taking another notch when I check loads.

[/ QUOTE ]
Yes, he would be an idiot, UNLESS he saw a strap hanging while you were driving down the road. I had a HP stop on a ramp when I was checking my load, I will check also a bout 20mi after first start, then every 100-150 or so after. (three times between St. Louis and Chicago usually.
he simply asked is everything ok? I said, Fine, just making sure load is secure. he replied, good job, be careful out there!
[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] I guess there are A-holes in every department though.

Superfly · 03-01-2007, 12:09 PM

Go to www.discountramps.com .I ordered mine from there love em i have loaded many heavy vehicals with mine including Spotter trucks to Pickups, I have the 8' ramps There rated at 20k per axel Cost was 1200.00

mgraveman · 03-02-2007, 01:22 PM

as far as length - I load a lawnmower in the back of a pickup truck quite regularly. It's about 40" off the ground. I use the 8' removeable sides as ramps. I back up to a hill or into a ditch with it, and it's almost a straight shot. If I didn't do that - I'd never get traction to move up.

I know a skid steer is different, but I'd never even consider trying with the ramps which are more than twice as long as the bed is high. If you saw what mine looked like with the ramps leaning up to the bed on flat gound you'd agree instantly. I'd consider building a loading dock if at all possible or using a hill as a loading dock.