New trailer - what else do I need before my truck can handle it? - Diesel Forum

shuck · 10-18-2007, 02:27 AM

I just bought this trailer
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...em=200162879318

My 97 PSD has:
New 1.0A/R Turbo with wicked wheel
Tymar style intake
3" DP with straight 3.5" exhaust
HPO crossover (didn't do much of anything)
Edge Evolution programmed to level 1
Boost, EGT, and trans temp gauges
Firestone Ride-rite air bags
Prodigy brake controller

Anything else I might need to make sure I can pull that down the road smoothly? The hitch receiver is currently the factory one - not sure what the max capacity of that is. I'll be towing it home empty, so it won't be a problem then - it's just when I get it loaded.

Any other suggestions on what to do?

Thanks!
Ryan

TCH777 · 10-18-2007, 03:07 AM

I think that trailer will weigh in more like 5000+ lbs empty.
So I would want a different reciever hitch and a weigh distributing hitch with sway control even if it was empty.

shuck · 10-18-2007, 03:31 AM

I'm going to put on some sway control when I get back. The guy who has it says with the 3 axles, he's never felt like he needed the sway bars when it's empty. I'm sure it's slightly over 5k. I'll probably run it over the scales on the way back.

Any idea what the capacity is of the stock receiver on my 97?

Any recommendations on brands or setups for weight distribution or sway control? I've never used that stuff before, but have towed some heavy stuff with other trucks (13k behind a 3/4 ton diesel suburban).

PSDfreak · 10-18-2007, 03:38 AM

A side note....I noticed he is running Chevy wheels with what looks like the tires that were on the wheels....You might want to look into replacing to Radial TRAILER rated tires...

shuck · 10-18-2007, 03:45 AM

Yeah, I think he said they were E load rated, which led me to believe they might be truck tires. I don't plan on maxing this trailer out or anything - I'll probably have 8-9k inside it.

STurbo90 · 10-18-2007, 03:46 AM

That trailer is already set up for a weight distributing hitch, is the hitch included?

You probably need it. The stock hitch probably has a 500/5000 capacity in Weight Carrying form and a 1000/10000 cap. with WD hitch. Most all WD hitches have built in sway mounts, but you might not need it like he said. When I tow my trailer with my CC LB I don't use it, can't tell a difference, but my cousins ex cab short bed defitnately benefits from the sway control(though its a 2wd gasser so its a lot lighter).

That trailer looks like it weighs over 5K empty.
My trailer, 4' shorter and one axle less wieghs 4500 empty.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1117...45196200zwxCOb

shuck · 10-18-2007, 04:09 AM

He wasn't planning on including the hitch. I could probably convince him to sell it to me if the connections aren't standard between different hitches.

Is there a standard hookup for the weight distribution bars?

STurbo90 · 10-18-2007, 04:52 AM

They are somewhat standard, but some of the new hitches can have the sway control built into the torsion bar mounts. So when you hook up the torsion bar your done, you don't need to hook up the extra sway control bar.

The torsion brackets on the frame tongue are usually bolted on, but some are welded, if he welded them on, you might want to see about just getting the hitch from him. If you get another hitch later with different length torsion bars you might have to move the tongue mounts.

Personally I would probably just buy a new WD hitch and frame hitch, I noticed you said you were going to have 8-9K load, including the trailer that will probably put you in the 14K range. The stock hitch was not rated that high even with wd hitch in '97.

PSDfreak · 10-18-2007, 04:55 AM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shuck</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah, I think he said they were E load rated, which led me to believe they might be truck tires. I don't plan on maxing this trailer out or anything - I'll probably have 8-9k inside it. </div></div>

Your problem is going to come into the flex of the sidewalls....My father in law has a 19' Ski boat with a dual axle trailer under it...About 8 years ago he had new tires put on at a tire shop (Load Range E Radials). Within a 100 mile trip BOTH failed at different times....Not saying this will definitely happen to you but it may not be worth chancing it....Just thought I would share my experience [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]

shuck · 10-18-2007, 05:37 AM

STurbo90: I'm looking at a Putnam XDR (class 5) - they seem to be about half the price of other class 5 (ish) hitch receivers out there. Any experience with those? I like them because they still maintain the 2" receiver which keeps me away from the expense of the "tow beast" moniker. I had one of them on a 95 Chevy half ton (with the 6.5TD) and it seemed to be a good hitch. Granted, that truck couldn't get anywhere close to using all of that hitch - it just happened to be priced right.

Any recommendations on a reasonably priced and easy to hook up WD setup? I've never used WD before.

As far as the tires - I know regular radials aren't the way to go. I've had plenty of bad experiences with regular tires on trailers, but they usually involved an overloaded trailer as well. Had an old single axle (3500lb) trailer that had a 3200lb boat on it. Well, add fuel, equipment, and the weight of the trailer itself and you can see what happens. For some reason my family always put used car tires on that trailer! (It was a boat that was shared amongst extended family) Well, I finally got tired of blowing tires and put some real trailer tires on it. Never blew another tire (despite it usually being overloaded). We'll see how these tires look when I get there. With 3 axles, I don't expect any of them to be stressed much while it's empty. I'll make lots of stops to check tire temperature (usually the killer on non-trailer tires from the bulge).

mlcowden · 10-18-2007, 07:52 AM

Did you look for a tag on your hitch? If it is one of the "original" receiver hitches Ford installaed I bet it is at least a Class 4 and likely a Class 5.

If the tires look good run them until you need new. The tri-axles is going to eat tires, due to scuffing, to change them out before you need to.

NickKent · 10-18-2007, 08:50 AM

Three things I would do. Get a honest to goodness Class V hitch like you seem to be doing. Definitely set it up with the strongest WD system that you can. And then get a CDL if you don't already have one. You are 18k plus 8800 GVWR which is 26,800. Just in CDL range.

Dr.Evil · 10-18-2007, 09:44 AM

I put a Putnam XDR on My '96 just over a year ago to tow 10,000#. Great hitch....several Guys here have them. It was suggested to me to buy & use upgraded hardware in place of the supplied hardware. For what the Other hitches cost they're WAY over-priced. Your factory "Hitch" on Your '97, if it's the factory bumper with a bolt-on receiver socket or just a ball bolted to the factory step bumper is only rated 5000#/500#. Not near strong enough to pull that trailer except maybe empty.

SmokeyWren · 10-18-2007, 11:06 AM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shuck</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
New trailer - what else do I need before my truck can handle it?

My 97 PSD has:

Firestone Ride-rite air bags

The hitch receiver is currently the factory one - not sure what the max capacity of that is. </div></div>

Don't even think about hooking onto that trailer with the factory receiver. Replace the receiver with a class 5 receiver, rated at least 14,000 pounds WD. And that TowBeast receiver won't be enough if you load the trailer to 18k. So ignore the GVWR of the trailer and use the max trailer weight rating of the receiver or hitch, whichever is less, as your max trailer GVW.

Forget about trying to use a 2" ball. Probably none of them are rated high enough to handle a 14,000+ pound trailer. Get the "standard" class V ball rated for at least 14,000 pounds. Some brand other than TowBeast is okay, as long as it is rated 14k or more.

The Putman XDR receiver is rated 16k max trailer weight with a WD hitch. But it's a 2" receiver tube, not a 2" ball. You'll need a 2" drawbar/ball mount, but the actual ball will probably be bigger than 2".

For a weight-distributing hitch with sway control, pay attention to the max weight rating of the hitch. The good ones rated to handle a 14,000 pound trailer are not cheap, so get ready for sticker shock.

DO NOT try to get by on the cheap. Dragging that much trailer is serious business. Be safe.

After you get all hooked up with the WD hitch and the air bags properly adjusted, the floor of the trailer should be level front to rear. Use a 4' carpenter's spirit level to be sure the trailer is level. If it's not, then fine-tune the hitch and or the airbags until it is level.

shuck · 10-18-2007, 03:06 PM

Thanks for all of the input! I've got a 2-5/16" ball on a solid 2" mount from some other heavy towing I've done in the past. I'm going to order the Putnam Class V receiver for sure.

I don't plan on getting the trailer much heavier than 13k lbs - I'm definitely not going to max it out. I just like the idea of having a trailer that's a little heavier duty than I need - things seem to work better and last longer when you aren't putting them right at their limits.