We're planning on visiting a campground with our 27' Prowler TT and to do so we have to traverse a section of dirt road that climbs about 1.5 miles at an 8% grade. Safe speed through this section is about 10 mph or less. I was wondering about shifting the transfer case into 4WD low but keeping the hubs free to pull this section. There are a couple of spots on the climb which are a 10-12% grade, and I'd like to pull this section with as much ease as possible. The road does have decent traction, but a couple of tight turns and it is pretty hard-packed. What do you guys think? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
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96 F-350 CC PSD,4x4,E4OD,4.10LS, Power mods: Superduty IC with powder-coated GTS tubes, Racor CCV, Tymar intake, Gutted EBPV, shimmed fuel regulator, Ceramic coated Hypermax DP, 4" Exhaust (dead cat), TWildman 4 position chip, Tranny: Sonnax valve and springs, B&M deep pan, B&M Trick shift synthetic ATF, Tru-cool 4739 cooler, Magnefine filter, Exterior: BFG 285 AT's on AR Crater teflon wheels, Warn Premium hubs, Skyjacker add-a-leaf,Rancho 9000's,Stull mud flaps, Century topper, Bushwacker fender flares, N-fab 3-step nerf bars. Interior: pedal mod, 3-gauge pillar, My Truck photos
As long as your front hubs are freewheeling, you can drive in 4wd-Lo. I do it all the time when maneuvering my 5th wheel trailer into a campsite. With a 6 speed in the L gear and in 4wd-Lo, with the engine at idle, the truck moves almost as fast as you can crawl.
One thing to be aware of though - DON'T TRY TO SHIFT FROM LO RANGE INTO HIGH RANGE WHILE THE TRUCK IS ROLLING. YOU'LL LIKELY NEED TO REPLACE YOUR BROKEN TRANSFER CASE IF YOU DO. You can shift through all of the transmission gears as long as you remain in Lo Range. But, when you want to get back to High Range, you've got to stop and then shift the transfer case.
I do it all the time as well. Even in traffic jams. Max speed it about 30 mph for me with a 5 speed.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 1/1/09 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 7 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet, 1 total paint job.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 4.6 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 16.5 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
I agree with JohnL3 keep the hubs unlocked and have at it. I go to all kinds of horse events where people back their rigs in on soft ground or up hill in high range and can Feel the damage to their trannys. Use the low range and you will be very happy. If you have auto hubs you can modify them to free wheel in 4 low.
mrsmith
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99.5 F450 4x4, CC, 6 speed, Luk Clutch, ported BB turbo, DP chip, Banks brake, Aeroturbine, 4" stack, SPEARCO 6.0 charge air cooler, Tymar intake, Dahl 100 filter, In tank & Pre pump mod, Zoodad,
TC locks at about 10-15 MPH, so tranny will not heat up.
Due to a lapse in route planning, I ended up going over the Tail Of The Dragon. Used LO range the whole way. Only problem is you need to find a pullout at each end to stop and shift in and out of LO.
Art
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2000 F350 7.3 PSD 4x4 six-pack dually. All Stock.
Ride Rites with "Big Red" on-board Compressor.
DynaTrac Free-Spin conversion.
Hellroaring Battery Isolator for T-145 house batteries.
Flex-A-Lite 900 CFM tranny cooler (for those special 100 Deg./5 MPH-traffic
Florida days) with Magnefine filter.
FleetGuard coolant filter. Mod Photos AE Plots
Sun-Lite slide-in camper.
31-foot Holiday Rambler TT.
29-RLS Jayco TT.
Can't with auto lockers.. put manual lockers on, or I guess you could remove the vac. lines. That a big reason why I went to manual Warn lockers. I know they are in and I can move my gooseneck around in low, makes things a lot easier on the clutch.
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1992 E350 7.3 IDI, 3.73 club van - 160K
1998 Quad cab 2500 12V Cummins, 4x4,auto, all stock with 145K miles
2000 F350,DRW converted to SRW with Vision 19.5" wheels,4x4,6 speed,Lariat,Napa 6642 airfilter,Edge Juice w/Attitude,Cody Cushon gooseneck, 175K, Prodigy, 3.73 gears
2002 TDI Jetta Manual 200K
2002 TDI Jetta Manual 230K
2003 TDI Jetta Maual 90K
1999 Polaris Diesel Quad
2004 Kubota BX 1500 599cc diesel
(yah I like the old mechanical diesels)
Thanks for the comments. I have an auto tranny and I have switched over to Warn hubs as you can see in my sig. This should be interesting, I'm looking forward to trying it out. One question I have, though, if I'm under 10 mph, the TC will be unlocked...right? I'm a bit concerned about tranny temps although I've done several things to address that (see sig). I'm going to try to time things so that the pull will be in the relative cool of the morning.
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96 F-350 CC PSD,4x4,E4OD,4.10LS, Power mods: Superduty IC with powder-coated GTS tubes, Racor CCV, Tymar intake, Gutted EBPV, shimmed fuel regulator, Ceramic coated Hypermax DP, 4" Exhaust (dead cat), TWildman 4 position chip, Tranny: Sonnax valve and springs, B&M deep pan, B&M Trick shift synthetic ATF, Tru-cool 4739 cooler, Magnefine filter, Exterior: BFG 285 AT's on AR Crater teflon wheels, Warn Premium hubs, Skyjacker add-a-leaf,Rancho 9000's,Stull mud flaps, Century topper, Bushwacker fender flares, N-fab 3-step nerf bars. Interior: pedal mod, 3-gauge pillar, My Truck photos
Can't with auto lockers.. put manual lockers on, or I guess you could remove the vac. lines. That a big reason why I went to manual Warn lockers. I know they are in and I can move my gooseneck around in low, makes things a lot easier on the clutch.
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Just wire a switch into the hub vacuum solenoid and you will have complete control of the hubs from the cab... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
__________________ Roy
2011 F450
Lariat Ultimate
Duraflap Mud Flaps w/ SS
Retrax PRO Bed Cover
Otherwise stock
Can't with auto lockers.. put manual lockers on, or I guess you could remove the vac. lines. That a big reason why I went to manual Warn lockers. I know they are in and I can move my gooseneck around in low, makes things a lot easier on the clutch.
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Just wire a switch into the hub vacuum solenoid and you will have complete control of the hubs from the cab... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
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99 up only vac operated, older ones are not. Will need to swap out to manual hubs. Warns standards will run you under 300 bucks with adapter.
If you do the swap, be ready for the stock very large spindle nut that seems to take at least a day to located the right tool to remove. The warn adapter kit has a smaller more common one.
If you manually lock the TC at 10 mph and are in L4 with hubs unlocked, will there be enough rpms to keep from stalling the engine? I am guessing yes but never tried it.
That place your going to sounds like a place I would visit! The harder to get to, the less...... well you know.
Rick H...
__________________ Omaha Metro Powerstroke Diesel Club
Pres Omaha Metro PSD Club Biodiesel Calculator
HIS
96 F250 4x4 auto super cab.
TS 4 Pos Chip, addaLeaf, Boss 8'-6" plow, , DIY AIC, Tymar DP, gutted EBPV, JS IDM, Tymar Intake, 4" Open exhaust, trio a-pillar gauges + 6 overhead gauges. TruCool 4590 Tran Cooler. On board air with dual horns. 4 corner strobes. AC mod with Twist, ISSPro Turbo Temp Monitor, Power Pedel mod, turbo ped mod, Warn Lock-outs, Swamps 175/173 99 IC & GTS Pipe Kit,Snow Performance Water/Meth inj (NOT hooked up!), chicken to use it!
Garmin GPS,Toughbook Laptop, All Mode Ham Radio.
HERS
97 F250 CC SWB 100% stock and going to stay that way! I lied, Shimmed, Tymar Intake. I lied again, kat dead! More lies.. 3" DP, Gutted EBPV, Turbo Pedistal Mod. Dyno'd 263 hp [color:"RED"] RDRCM#20 [/color]
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As long as your front hubs are freewheeling, you can drive in 4wd-Lo.
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Not to sound TOO ignorant, how do you "free wheel" in low when you have eautomatic locking hubs ( shift on the fly)????
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There are two easy ways to do this. If you don't want to cut wires, (and you won't use it very often) you can just unplug the 3 wire connecter on the Pulse Vacuum Hublock solenoid that is located on the passenger side wheel well. If you are going to use it often, or don't want to pop the hood and unplug and then have to replug, you can run a switch into the cab. On the same 3 wire plug you will cut the center wire and tie an off/on switch in the cab into it. Leave the switch on for normal operation and cut it off to keep the 4wd from engaging. The only thing to remember is to cut the switch off BEFORE you start switching the ESOF on the dash. These instructions are on a 2002.
If you need help let us know, Joe
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2002 F350, Crew Cab, 4WD, ISSOPRO Gauges,
3.73, Auto, 2wd low range mod, No door dinger,
Interior lights off switch, Zoodad Mod,
Extra Trans Cooler, Before coolers trans fltr,
Coolant fltr, Crimestopper remote start/alarm
Oil Guard Bypass, Air horns
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Thanks for the comments. I have an auto tranny and I have switched over to Warn hubs as you can see in my sig. This should be interesting, I'm looking forward to trying it out. One question I have, though, if I'm under 10 mph, the TC will be unlocked...right? I'm a bit concerned about tranny temps although I've done several things to address that (see sig). I'm going to try to time things so that the pull will be in the relative cool of the morning.
[/ QUOTE ]just install a torque converter lock up switch......basically a toggle switch....only got to splice into 1 wire....someone else here might have a link to the directions...i have one and will never go back.........ps learned alot on this post guys....i thought he was going to get flamed...then i was instructed...now im a smarter person.....david
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2001 f250 4x4 cc sb , 6 in lift, cheyenne wheels, 3.73 gears, 4 in exhaust with muff delete ,piller gagues, dp 6 pos chip, zoodad ,john wood transmission
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As long as your front hubs are freewheeling, you can drive in 4wd-Lo.
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Not to sound TOO ignorant, how do you "free wheel" in low when you have eautomatic locking hubs ( shift on the fly)????
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AH I knew there was a reason I order manual locking hubs. I use 4lo unlocked front for slow speed as in no or very little go peddle.
LeRoy
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Y2K F-350 Lariat SRW SC LB PSD 4X4 Man Hubs, Auto, Leather, Harvest Gold. 50 gal in the bed xfer-flow fuel tank. Banks exhaust and stinger kit. AIS cold air intake. Towing a Jayco Eagle Lite 5er 31'
just as the others said of course you can. but i tow in 4wd low, with it all locked up. i don't have any grades here in florida, but lots of sandy roads. as long as you are not like U turning you will be fine in 4wd all locked up. one thing that would concern me is in 2wd, you will have so much more power hitting the wheels, you may get slipage in 2wd???
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just as the others said of course you can. but i tow in 4wd low, with it all locked up. i don't have any grades here in florida, but lots of sandy roads. as long as you are not like U turning you will be fine in 4wd all locked up. one thing that would concern me is in 2wd, you will have so much more power hitting the wheels, you may get slipage in 2wd???
[/ QUOTE ] With the hills and corners and a TT, using all four might be better. You can also back off on the spring bars "a bunch" to put more of the load on the rear tires if using just the rear drive wheels.
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