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just as the others said of course you can. but i tow in 4wd low, with it all locked up. i don't have any grades here in florida, but lots of sandy roads. as long as you are not like U turning you will be fine in 4wd all locked up. one thing that would concern me is in 2wd, you will have so much more power hitting the wheels, you may get slipage in 2wd???
[/ QUOTE ] With the hills and corners and a TT, using all four might be better. You can also back off on the spring bars "a bunch" to put more of the load on the rear tires if using just the rear drive wheels.
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Getting ready to do this trip at the end of the week. There are some sharp turns, but I've only ever had issues with sharp turns and "binding" when the front was locked up and the road surface was dry. We're getting some pretty good rain around here lately, though, so if the road is sloppy I'll lock the front. Good idea too about maybe keeping more of the load on the rear end.
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96 F-350 CC PSD,4x4,E4OD,4.10LS, Power mods: Superduty IC with powder-coated GTS tubes, Racor CCV, Tymar intake, Gutted EBPV, shimmed fuel regulator, Ceramic coated Hypermax DP, 4" Exhaust (dead cat), TWildman 4 position chip, Tranny: Sonnax valve and springs, B&M deep pan, B&M Trick shift synthetic ATF, Tru-cool 4739 cooler, Magnefine filter, Exterior: BFG 285 AT's on AR Crater teflon wheels, Warn Premium hubs, Skyjacker add-a-leaf,Rancho 9000's,Stull mud flaps, Century topper, Bushwacker fender flares, N-fab 3-step nerf bars. Interior: pedal mod, 3-gauge pillar, My Truck photos
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As long as your front hubs are freewheeling, you can drive in 4wd-Lo.
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Not to sound TOO ignorant, how do you "free wheel" in low when you have eautomatic locking hubs ( shift on the fly)????
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There are two easy ways to do this. If you don't want to cut wires, (and you won't use it very often) you can just unplug the 3 wire connecter on the Pulse Vacuum Hublock solenoid that is located on the passenger side wheel well. If you are going to use it often, or don't want to pop the hood and unplug and then have to replug, you can run a switch into the cab. On the same 3 wire plug you will cut the center wire and tie an off/on switch in the cab into it. Leave the switch on for normal operation and cut it off to keep the 4wd from engaging. The only thing to remember is to cut the switch off BEFORE you start switching the ESOF on the dash. These instructions are on a 2002.
If you need help let us know, Joe
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Got any diagrams or more info on doing this? Sounds VERY easy but you dont know me---I offended God in a past life.Thanks.
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2001 F-350 Lariat,CC,LB,SRW,4X4,Auto,7.3,2"lift,KYBs, 3.73, steel oil x-over, aFe Stage II Pro 7, AirCond mod, Fumoto, DP 60,80,100. AIH Delete, hi-lite/fog-lite on mod. Dead bird in grill.
Sorry no pictures or diagrams. It is as easy as it sounds. To try out the mod just unplug the connector from the pvh. If you cut the center wire and don't like the results you can always put it back together.
Joe
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2002 F350, Crew Cab, 4WD, ISSOPRO Gauges,
3.73, Auto, 2wd low range mod, No door dinger,
Interior lights off switch, Zoodad Mod,
Extra Trans Cooler, Before coolers trans fltr,
Coolant fltr, Crimestopper remote start/alarm
Oil Guard Bypass, Air horns
Well, we did the pull this past weekend and all went well. The steep sections were a breeze in 4-low, just let the truck idle on up. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Did have a little issue I need to look into, on the way down a squeak developed under the truck, only in 4WD...front driveline or maybe front of t-case. The noise seemed to kind of cycle in pitch and would go away as soon as I went back into 2WD. Might have to have it looked at this week.
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96 F-350 CC PSD,4x4,E4OD,4.10LS, Power mods: Superduty IC with powder-coated GTS tubes, Racor CCV, Tymar intake, Gutted EBPV, shimmed fuel regulator, Ceramic coated Hypermax DP, 4" Exhaust (dead cat), TWildman 4 position chip, Tranny: Sonnax valve and springs, B&M deep pan, B&M Trick shift synthetic ATF, Tru-cool 4739 cooler, Magnefine filter, Exterior: BFG 285 AT's on AR Crater teflon wheels, Warn Premium hubs, Skyjacker add-a-leaf,Rancho 9000's,Stull mud flaps, Century topper, Bushwacker fender flares, N-fab 3-step nerf bars. Interior: pedal mod, 3-gauge pillar, My Truck photos
I tow in 4LO when I need to (especially having a 5 speed....when trying to back up a hill with a load it helps). It shouldn't be a problem to take it in 4Lo with the hubs not engaged...
ive put my truck in 4 low hubs engauged with about 3 ton in the bed (yes i beat it) to get through wet muddy grass and it worked great so tounge weight is less then 6000 then ur ok
just go slow dont try to run it let the 4 low do the work and i do not see y not to lock in hubs its like 4 wheeling with a load youd do the same with a load in snow right?
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, back up camera, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, front mount hitch and off road lights,93 front clip, headache rack, 37" humvee tires, ac power converter,factory buckets from quadcab, power windows and locks,cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, huge front bumper, oba,
in progress western style mirrors, holset turbo, airhorns, and some other goodies
I'd like to add that in 4wd with the hubs unlocked, you are putting an awful lot of torque to the rear driveshaft. Just easing around, backing trailers and whatnot you should be fine, just don't goose the throttle or you could be chasing your driveshaft rolling down the street.
why i lock them up [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif[/img]
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, back up camera, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, front mount hitch and off road lights,93 front clip, headache rack, 37" humvee tires, ac power converter,factory buckets from quadcab, power windows and locks,cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, huge front bumper, oba,
in progress western style mirrors, holset turbo, airhorns, and some other goodies
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