When I traded my 2005 F250 last week, I left the 5th wheel rails in the truck. The dealer that installed them last year welded the brackets on the frame. I called a closer dealer today about installing rails in the new truck, and they said they would never weld to the frame. The instructions that came with the hitch said either method was acceptable. Any opinions about what to do on a 2008?
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2008 F350 CC LB. 6.4 Lariet SRW
2007 Montana Mountaineer 329RLT 5th wheel
2008 HD Electra Glide Ultra POSE
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TLG</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When I traded my 2005 F250 last week, I left the 5th wheel rails in the truck. The dealer that installed them last year welded the brackets on the frame. I called a closer dealer today about installing rails in the new truck, and they said they would never weld to the frame. The instructions that came with the hitch said either method was acceptable. Any opinions about what to do on a 2008? </div></div>
If I recall, I'll have to go check, my owner's manual somewhere stated to never weld the frame. When we installed a B&W gooseneck in my brother's F250 the install manual for that also stated to never weld to the frame. As someone else posted, it could compromise the strength of the frame.
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2004 F350 Crew XLT 4x4 long box, SRW, 3.73 Gears
Bone Stock
Frames are not mild steel. To have a frame of mild steel strong enough it would be so heavy as to be impractical. Welding with the correct electrode is required to keep the frame from cracking next to the weld due to hydrogen embrittlement. The following is the reply to an email I sent a professional certified weldor about welding some brackets on a frame:
"I don't claim to know everything, but I'll try if I can to at least give you a tip if you don't already know it.
First are you talking about welding a medium carbon steel or actually a high carbon steel.
If you are talking about medium carbon and using the flux core MIG wire it is the same as Stick and there is no need for shielding gas.
I would use the 7018 low hydrogen wire either way and especially if it is a high carbon steel.
It will be harder to do out of position and cover it if possible with an asbestos substitute blanket for slow cooling. If it is going to take multiple passes maintain an interpass temperature (250 to 300 degs,) and not let it cool completely before the next pass.
Either way the flux will shield the hot weld and cracking while cooling will be your biggest concern.
Preheat the area around the weld to around 300 degs. If it's a large area do it to within about 10" around the joint to keep it from drawing away the heat too quickly. The higher the carbon content in the material the more critical it is. You probably already know that.
This is the only thing I can tell you off hand. If this isn't enough to help I can look things up in more details with more information about the materials involved."
When I bought my camper, I had them install the hitch since it was included in the deal (yeah, sure it was) they welded the brackets on the frame, which I thought was odd, so I question the installer and he said on my truck it is ok to weld on the frame, I trusted the guys and they install alot of hitches, some welded some bolted.
I dont know if it is right or wrong, but I have not had any issues in 7 years. If it were my truck NEW truck I would want the brackets bolted on. I have only seen it once, we were having a tower installed on a 50 Hatteras with a set of 3412 CATS in it and when they were done the boat would not run [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif[/img] after CAT was done replacing all of the electronics ($40k later [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cry.gif[/img])the tower guys make sure the engines PCM's are unplugged. We have had a few boats do the same thing when they were hit by lightening. Good Luck
Frank
__________________ http://community.webshots.com/user/dieseldutton
1997 F-250 H.D 4X4 CREW CAB SHORT BED, MBRP 4" TURBO BACK, 16K REESE, 3:55, Auto Meter Sport Comp gauges, tri pillar, 11\16\05 BDP STAGE 1 INJECTORS, TS 6 POSITION CHIP, TYMAR INTAKE 3/27/06 B.T.S. , SIRIUS RADIO, BDP IDM, 4" 350 BLOCKS,160,000 SP Exhaust Brake, 7/4/07 6.0 Intercooler, 7/29/07 Blackbirds Customs rear disc 9/11/07 King Pin Dana 60, SKY 3" RSK, V code 5200 lbs SD springs, 10/17/07 Pro Comp Xtreme's 315x75x16 on Pro Comp 1059's 8"x16" 1/27/08 DIY Fuel System, Running on DSE since March 2008
2004 Pitbull Motorsports rigid chopper
121 TP 130rwh 250 avon
04 CRF250 mine
02 CR80 sons
03 XR100 daughters
425 Polaris magnum
500 Polaris sportsman and 300 lakota everyones
1998 27.5 Wilderness 5th wheel
Whenever I've installed any sort of hitch on my trucks I've bolted it. However on my two haulers, '85 w/schwalbe bed and a y2k w/western hauler bed the gooseneck plate is welded to the frames. I've had no failures with them. The '85 has at least 250k with a gooseneck behind it.
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Keith
2000 F350 Cab/Chassis CrewCab 4x4 DRW 7.3/auto "Hamilton Custom Cruiser Conversion" WesternHauler Bed 50gal TFI transfer tank 4" turbo back Exh. DIY intake w/Napa 6637
'88 F350 CrewCab SRW 4x4 7.3/C6/4.10LS Banks non-wastegated turbo NAPA 6637 airfilter 4" lift Airlift rear airbags 107k miles
'86 F250 ext cab. 4x4 6.9/C6/3.55 arrowcraft dually conversion 45gal aft tank ?53k miles
'85 F350 Cab/Chassis DRW 55" Schwalbe Sleeper 7.3/T-19, 4.10, Banks Sidewinder wastegated Turbo Holley red tweaked inj.pump 6.2 governor and STACKS! The old 6.9 gave up after 445k miles.Stacked before stacks were cool since 5/85 **SOLD** My Pics
'86 F350 Crewcab Dually 6.9/C-6/4.10 LS Racor seperator. 233k miles **SOLD**
'89 F350 Crewcab SRW 4x4 7.3/zf5/4.10LS 193k miles**SOLD**
A weld parallel to the frame probably isn't a big deal, especially on the web - but a weld on the top or bottom, especially perpendicular across it, "can" cause a weak spot, by cracking next to the weld. I've seen it happen, but it was almost always a really bad amateur buzzbox weld, too......
The biggest issues I've seen with welded-in plates is the lack of flex - on older pickups especially, the frame was more/less designed to flex, so welding in a big plate (long front-to-back) would stiffen them up a little too much and cause some cracks in strange places.
I can, and have welded everything from a broken heart to the crack of dawn! [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whistle.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
But when it comes to truck / car frames I try to bolt. Use just a touch of oil on the bolts, use lock washers, or better yet nylon lock nuts, torque to manufacture specifications, and don’t look back! [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif[/img]
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Why Chyrel? To quote the late great Johnny Cash!
"My name is Sue! How do you do! Now you gonna die!"
2007 Dodge 3500, 4X4 Quad cab SLT, with 6.7L Cummins / 6-speed Aisin, 4:10 gears, and 9 1/2-foot Aluma flatbed.
Long gone
2004 F-550, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, 4:88 LS axle, Flatbed dump with a 10-ton Scott hoist. Autometer Pyro/trans/boost on pillar. Turbo lifesaver.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Copper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">... by cracking next to the weld. I've seen it happen, but it was almost always a really bad amateur buzzbox weld, too......
- </div></div>
Bingo! The welding heat did not cause the crack, it was hydrogen embrittlement. When I hear buzzbox, I think AC only. DC is required with the right electrode to make a weld in high carbon steel. The hydrogen diffuses into the steel when molten leaving tiny gas bubbles when solidified that act as stress risers.
This is why I get anal about welding high carbon steel. A man that works across the street from me is crippled for life from this type of failure. His uncle came up with a homemade man lift, put ole Marvin up in the air about 30' and the high carbon steel next to the weld cracked letting Marvin fall. He says it was just weak metal, the weld held fine.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Always bolt on, welding could......</div></div>
Yessir, take a look inside the frame rails of any truck frame bigger than a pickup. From a smaller International with a gas engine to a full size Peterbilt, etc, both sides of the frame rails are slathered with decals saying DO NOT WELD ON FRAME RAILS. Seems like it would also apply to a pickup for the same reasons.
Hate to break it to you boys, but my 2004 F-550 was perfectly legal, (warranty) to weld on the frame, as per Ford’s up fit manual. I don’t remember reading a welding procedure per se, do remember it stating before doing any welding to disconnect both batteries, and then there was a start up procedure. When I built the 14-foot flatbed dump, only welding I did to the frame was the hinge that was all the way out at the tail end of the frame, and yes I used 7018.
Now my 2007 Dodge cab & chassis didn’t even come with up fit instruction, just a little bragging section stating it has 50,000-PSI steel where it counts the most! (Insert roll eyes icon here) [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif[/img]! Maybe in a few years Dodge will catch up in the commercial truck area. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img]
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Why Chyrel? To quote the late great Johnny Cash!
"My name is Sue! How do you do! Now you gonna die!"
2007 Dodge 3500, 4X4 Quad cab SLT, with 6.7L Cummins / 6-speed Aisin, 4:10 gears, and 9 1/2-foot Aluma flatbed.
Long gone
2004 F-550, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, 4:88 LS axle, Flatbed dump with a 10-ton Scott hoist. Autometer Pyro/trans/boost on pillar. Turbo lifesaver.