Yea, the guy I drove for had the air pistons on all 3 of his trucks, but if I remember right he said he liked them mainly because they eliminated most of the ring and hook wear.
You all rock
Great discussions / comments / etc
I am learning a great deal -- )
SO in Summary:
-Best Option 1: Pull with Gooseneck Hitch ( I agree have one on my F250 FX4 Yr 2006)
-Second Option 2: Pull with Pintle hitch & understand the play issue do all actions to reduce same, if can't install Gooseneck hitch due to truck body + for universal easy hook up Vehicle to Trailer, One would think that the Pintle hitch method has GOT to be easier to connect to trailer versus Ball
-Comment 1: The F450 Yr 2001 Dually purchasing at end of this month has a 14 foot Millenium Truck enclosed box installed & desire to modify same with shelves / organize so have quick access to tools + most important reason is for security / thief prevention - nothing is thief Proof but at present when have my tools on open Gooseneck and go into any hardware facility I am in constant fear that when I return Tools GONE & a considerable revenue lost.
-Comment 2: Anyone have experience with SwitchNGo.com ? This vendor manufactures interchangeable Truck bodies + can purchase one of their universal rails and equipped any Truck body a person may already have & use with SwitchNGo System so that was a very pleasant statement from Sales Rep, most outfits have a Propriety system & force owner to ONLY purchase their truck bodies
-Comment 3: SwitchNGo.com from my limited research has a good product line ( Has both electric + Hydraulic Lift Options ) good selection of truck bodies etc --- but its is out of my price range at present
-Comment 4: So I am full circle back to Pintle trailer being I truly don't desire to remove existing Millenium Enclosed Truck body just to be able to ADD a gooseneck Hitch assembly
-Comment 5: At present thinking seriously about purchasing Pintle Trailer USED of course from one of the Power Utility companies or search for one on Craigs list or EBAY
-Comment 6: Then sell F250 FX4 equipped with CODY Turn over ball hitch + aluminum trailer due to my current economic situation -- must downsize to keep my head above water until the economy recovers
-Respectfully requesting FEEDBACK & additional suggestions alternative ideas
Many thanks AGAIN in Advance
John
...One would think that the Pintle hitch method has GOT to be easier to connect to trailer versus Ball...
I think I would disagree with this statement. There is nothing, in principle, different about the two set-ups when hitching up to one vs the other. It's a small blind target, ball to trailer hitch or truck hitch to hole. The pintle actually has the extra element of the latching retainer that may or may not restrict how high the trailer can be raised prior to backing in, the ball hitch has no such restriction. I have an alignment tool that looks like a couple of tennis balls mounted on car antennas with a magnetic bases that make lining up with my trailer a breeze. They probably wouldn't help with a box bed though.
-Comment 1: The F450 Yr 2001 Dually purchasing at end of this month has a 14 foot Millenium Truck enclosed box installed ...
So that bed probably has more than 48" from the extreme back of the bed or rear bumper to the center of the rear axle. And if that distance is more than 48", then you can't make a sharp turn without the outside corner of the rear bumper banging into the front of the trailer - unless your goosneck trailer is a custom jobbie designed for a much longer than normal stretch from the front of the trailer bed to the gooseneck connection to the truck.
So forget a gooseneck hitch. You'd need a different bed with not more than 48" from the back of the bed to the center of the rear axle to make that work.
As to pintle hitch vs. ball, forget the pintel. I agree with olddieseldude that hooking up a pintle hook is just as hard, or even harder, than a weight-distributing ball hitch. And you can't add a weight-distributing hitch to a pintle hitch. And anyone who tows a tag trailer that grosses more than 5,000 pounds at highway speeds without a weight distributing hitch is not quite all there.
Install a receiver that will handle the GVWR of the heaviest trailer you might tie onto, then install a weight-distributing hitch that will also handle that weight. Then you can travel at highway speeds while dragging a loaded trailer with no problems.
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My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it last year. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat.
-OK based on the above POSTS ( Thank-You ) you all have convinced me in my particular situation with F450 Dually is to install BALL Receiver versus Pintle, then purchase & connect weight-distributing hitch that will handle MAX weight of Trailer.
-My F450 Dually vehicle set-up ( 14 Foot enclosed Truck bed Box ) prevents me from Installing Gooseneck Hitch so next best OPTION is as stated above
-I am going to pass at present time on the SwitchNGo system a good product line but out of my price range + believe can get more flexibility / functionality with a ROLL OFF Trailer
-This WEB SITE FORUM (www.thedieselstop.com - Great one at That ) has a wealth of knowledge & experiences ( Thanks for taking the time / willingness to pass it along for benefit of all who visit this web link ) its GREAT for anyone doing upfront homework / research PRIOR to making purchase
-As always additional feedback / comments as most appreciated
-Weight distribution system to be used with above Superhitch ( Third Web Link )
Equal-i-zer® offers a unique two-in-one design that combines weight Equal-i-zer® Hitch - Product Info
So as the frame been extended to the rear of the bed? If yes, then I think there are less expensive options than the Torque-lift. If no, then yes that is a good option.
Will you ever tow in slippery conditions (snow/ice/thick wet leaves)? If yes, then the equalizer may not be the best option. It can cause under-steer, and if you get into a jackknife, the friction from the hitch can prevent you from recovering. For slippery weather, I would recommend a hitch without sway control, or if you really need it, then the Reese Dual cam as it encourages the trailer to return-to-center which can help get out of a jack-knife situation. Still could encourage understeer though if the trailer is really heavy and there is not enough front axle weight.
If not towing in slippery weather, then the Equalizer is a good hitch. Reese makes a similar hitch called the Pro-series. Generally Reese has the highest rated hitches.
Old thread I know, but just ran across it...Ive never even considered a gooseneck, because of their low vertical load capacity. For those of you suggesting pintles are used most often on trailers with little to no tongue weight thats completely false...Its true that pups pulled by dumptrucks use pintle hitches....But so does just about every heavy equipment trailer. It seems to me that basically the highest vertical load capacity of goosenecks are right around 5,000 lbs...That doesnt seem like enough to transport any piece of equipment over 18,000 lbs. I have 5 trucks, and 6 trailers, all of which use pintles, and none of them are loose. And, pintles are really only suited for larger vehicles, as 1 ton trucks dont have the GCVWs to make use of pintles extra carrying capacity...It seems like maybe for 1 ton, and 3/4 ton trucks the gooseneck might be better suited, but I wouldnt say its a better hitch at all. One question to those of you using goosenecks: If you have an equipment trailer, how do you go about loading a 15 ton backhoe, how do you go about loading it on a trailer, or if your loading 2 or more bobcats, it seems to me anyway you load them, its going to be alot of hitch weight.
Also anyone thats hitched trailers before knows that pintles are in fact easier to hitch to, and easier to get off. Dont have to worry about backing up to far, just back up until the ring hits the coupler...And you can be off by a inch or so either way, and as you lower the trailer it will just slide into center. And of course the best part about pintles, friends arent always asking to borrow your trailer!
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2006 F250 cc/sb sct, studs egr delete, 100 shot injectors, fass fuel pump, twins, rough country 4-link 8" Lift, 38"x15.5" Dick Cepeks, 20x12 Rockstars, 4" Dual Exhaust, Ranch hand bumpers Front & Rear
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