I know this is probably a dumb question but what the heck I'm trying to learn. When you buy a fifth wheel hitch are they universal or specific to one trailer? Just in case i'm not wording it right do you have to buy a new fifth wheel hitch everytime you get a new/different trailer?
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If you can read this, thank a teacher, THANK A VET. it's in English: 04/04 F350 6.0 PSD Lariat CC 4X4 LB SRW Auto 3.73 rear end. All options except:moon roof-PTO-roof lights. Mods... MBRP,Line-x, White nite, Windows double tinted, 3 DVD system, Highway products 5er box, Pro-comp leveling kit, Pro-comp wheels/tires, MX-6 shocks,Viper 791XV remote start security system,Line of fire,Fumoto oil drain plug,Alaska tent and tarp bug screen,Rapid hitch drop hitch,Cobra 29 CB, Norcal Powerstrokes Member #5 http://www.norcalpowerstrokes.com/Events.html
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When you buy a fifth wheel hitch are they universal or specific to one trailer? Just in case i'm not wording it right do you have to buy a new fifth wheel hitch everytime you get a new/different trailer?
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Universal.
All kingpins on 5ers are identical length, diameter, etc. So any 5er hitch should be able to connect to any kingpin.
There are some differences in 5er hitches, but that shouldn't make any difference as to which brand of pickups they will fit.
Some brands of 5er hitches are easier to install on certain brands of pickups than on other brands. But the main difference is whether you have to drill some holes in the frame, or if the hitch install kit bolts into some exhisting holes. If you buy a new Reese Classic hitch with a Hidden Hitch mounting kit, it should bolt right into exhisting holes in the frames of SuperDuty longbed pickups. That same hitch will "fit" a Dodge, but you might have to drill some holes in the frame of the Dodge.
And there are various ways the 5er hitch is connected to the truck. The Reese and several other brands all use the same bedrail kit, with rails across the bed about 18" apart. Some lesser brands put the bedrails parallel with the bed instead of across the bed. And a few like the B&W TurnOverBall "Companion" 5er hitch doesn't use bedrails at all, but mounts in the same place as the gooseneck ball - with all the mounting hardware under the bed.
If you get to start from scratch, I like the way Dick Cutting did his. Reese Classic 16k 4-way tilt hitch, with normal Reese bedrails, but the bedrail mounting kit is made by Hidden Hitch. The advantage is he didn't have to drill any holes in his frame - the Hidden Hitch mounting kit used existing Ford holes in the frame.
I have the same Reese 16k 4-way tilt hitch, but mounted with the normal Reese bedrail mounting kit. I didn't even mess with it - I paid my RV dealer to install the bedrails and do the drilling into the frame. You've never had any fun until you try to drill holes into a SuperDuty frame. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]
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My Sierra Blanca is a '99.5 PSD CrewCab hot-rod Towing Machine! BTS tranny; TurboRamAir intake and 4" stainless turbo-back exhaust; DP-Tuner tunes flashed into an Edge Evolution tuner; ISSPRO EV gauges and TTM; AIC; SP-Diesel exhaust brake and torque converter controller. I special-ordered it new and plan to drive it until it quits.
My Reese hitch tilts front-to-back and side-to-side......I thought that was a 2-way tilt....what we used to call a rock'n'roll hitch.
Florida Ed
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2001 7.3 F-350 Dually Lariat CC LWB 4X2 Dark Green 4.10 4R100 5'ver Hauler (32' Montana 2 slides 10,500# - 2,000# tongue weight), 106 gal aux tank, 112K miles, nephews arguing over who will inherit it 'cause I'm gonna' drive it 'til I die. Bone stock.
2001 5.4 Gasser F-250 XLT Crewcab SWB 4X2 3.73 4R100 67K miles headed to 150K (wife's vehicle on the "junk-iron" theory of vehicle safety....most junk iron wins in a crash) stock as the day it was made
Before these: '00 F-250 CC PSD, '97 F-250 CC PSD, '94 Ford F-150, '91 Ford E-250, '81 Ford E-150, '66 Ford F-100 (cars not included)
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My Reese hitch tilts front-to-back and side-to-side......I thought that was a 2-way tilt....
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Nope.
1 = front
2 = back
3 = left
4 = right
So if yours tilts front and back and left and right, then that's 4 ways.
As a generaL RULE, Cheaper 5er hitches tilt only 2 ways - front and back. For example, the Reese Select Series 15k for $391 is a 2-way tilt, while the 16k for $482 is a 4-way tilt.
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I know this is probably a dumb question but what the heck I'm trying to learn. When you buy a fifth wheel hitch are they universal or specific to one trailer? Just in case i'm not wording it right do you have to buy a new fifth wheel hitch everytime you get a new/different trailer?
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Smokey has you cover well, however, there are specilized hitches out there. PullRite SuperGlide is highly recommened by many. This hitch utilizes an adapter on the trailer pin. You cannot move your trailer with a standard hitch unless you do something with the adapter.
Have a Safe and Merry Christmas.
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Here is most of what you need to know on getting your 7.3L started and how to operate it in the cold winter months. These posts use to readily available, but they've been hid in a subforum top of the 7.3 Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain forum. Winter Operation (How I Do It) Hard/No Start? Check here first
There are two basic type of 5er hitch, closing jaw, such as Reese, and sliding bar, such as Hijacker. I prefer the sliding bar type as I can visualize that it is locked and cannot open accidently.
Get a four-way rocker (front to back and side to side).
Get one that is 30 to to 50% higher rating than your trailer for safety and to allow for future upgrades without getting a new hitch. If buying a new one, I would not buy one less than 20k rating, however the 16k is a popular size.
I have a 21k Hijacker and am very happy with it. I would not hesitate to buy the same again.
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John
99 F350 PSD CC DRW, BD Tranny, Fan driven tranny cooler, exhaust brake, tranny temp gauge
Titanium 29/34 Fifthwheel
HiJack 21k 4way hitch
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If I ever start over again I think I would spend the extra bucks and get a hithch that has airbags in it...
[/ QUOTE ]I was looking at those. Are they worth the extra $$$???
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If you can read this, thank a teacher, THANK A VET. it's in English: 04/04 F350 6.0 PSD Lariat CC 4X4 LB SRW Auto 3.73 rear end. All options except:moon roof-PTO-roof lights. Mods... MBRP,Line-x, White nite, Windows double tinted, 3 DVD system, Highway products 5er box, Pro-comp leveling kit, Pro-comp wheels/tires, MX-6 shocks,Viper 791XV remote start security system,Line of fire,Fumoto oil drain plug,Alaska tent and tarp bug screen,Rapid hitch drop hitch,Cobra 29 CB, Norcal Powerstrokes Member #5 http://www.norcalpowerstrokes.com/Events.html
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If I ever start over again I think I would spend the extra bucks and get a hithch that has airbags in it...
[/ QUOTE ]I was looking at those. Are they worth the extra $$$???
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I have never heard anyone who owns one complain about them. You can get a unit that replaces your trailer hitch, or a receiver fro your bed. I have only heard great things about both. They do cost though!
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'97 F250 XLT, PSD, Ext Cab, E4OD, 4.10, TYMAR 4 position flip CHIP, BD Downpipe, Isspro pyrometer pre-turbo, AutoMeter tranny gauge, info@TymarPerformance.comTymar air, Tymar coolant filter, and Tymar HPX mod, ported wind deflector, 4" Exhaust, 4" kitty, Hayden tranny cooler w/in-line magnetic filter, Sonnex Valve, Tricumulator Springs, BMM tranny pan Summit Racing, Synthetic ATF, DYNAMAT, AC Mod, Bilstein Shocks from Eshock, Joe Servo IDM Mod, rhino bedliner, custom wheels, Lil' Rocker 5er hitch, 26.5 Prowler LE
There are many thousands of 250's and 350's pulling 5th wheels without air hitches. Our 350DRW rides well and pulls our 5er well without airbags.
Where air bags seem to become worth while is F450 and bigger, where the truck springs get firmer and ride on commercial type tires. This firmer ride sends shock and vibration into the 5er through the hitch.
However these heavier rated trucks get no ride benefit from an air hitch. If I were going to a bigger truck and wanted air, I would go to an air suspension on the truck. That way, the trailer rides better, but so do we.
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John
99 F350 PSD CC DRW, BD Tranny, Fan driven tranny cooler, exhaust brake, tranny temp gauge
Titanium 29/34 Fifthwheel
HiJack 21k 4way hitch
Here are my thoughts, after consulting for clients and selling both conversion trucks and air suspension hitches.
With the advent of HD Suspensions on our newer pick-ups, especially the dual wheel models, there is much less "give" in the suspension. Over the least few years, some fifth wheel mfgs.have recalled models because of pin box failure or structural damage. My feeling is that as the truck suspension's are designed to handle weight and length of the larger trailers, the fifth wheel mfgs. have not kept up with design changes and made their products more durable. They have improved suspensions and lessoned the pin weight. Sometimes this change has aggrivated the "pitching problem". This is why I think some have offered air ride pin boxes as a standard feature or an option. I reduces warranty claims.
The air ride hitch that I'm most familiar with eliminates most of the damage from the "shock load effects" of our deteriorating highways as well as the "fore and aft" pin slop seen with conventional fifth wheel hitches and air ride pin boxes.
I also believe that air ride options on the truck helps the truck ride better but does little for the effects of road shock for the trailer. In this area I agree that air ride is more beneficial for the F450/550 platform as opposed to the lighter duty trucks. So If I help a client select a truck conversion, I reccommend both air suspension for the truck and an air ride hitch for the trailer.
I'd be happy to answer any questions regarding either of these options. Please feel free to e-mail me. rcstrade@worldnet.att.net
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Late release Y2K F550, GCRW 30000 lbs., Power Stroke, R4100 transmission, Crew Cab, 2WD,Transfer Flow Aux. fuel tank, Kelderman Air Ride, Power Breaker Exhaust Brake, US Gear Auxiliary Overdrive,Derale remote mounted transmision cooler, Pyro. and Trans. Temp gauges, Hauler Bed, Trailer Saver Air Suspension Hitch.
My .02 about air hitches or air pins. With a truck that has a standard bed, I'm concerned about the distance between the bed & camper always changing. Had this trouble before on a 5er with the air pin & won't do it again. On a truck with a hauling body, you usually have a lot more clearance to start with. Don't see a problem there.
__________________ 2007 F350 6.0 CC FX4 Lariat LB DRW 4.10: Dark Stone/Arizona Beige, Camper Package. Add-ons: Eclipse AM/FM/CD/DVD/NAV, XM SkiFi2, Bed by Cajun Coatings, WeatherTech Bugshield/Deflectors/Mats, Husky Splash Guards, 6 piece Billet Grill, Draw Tite 20k hitch, Ride-Rite bags, Air Compressor, (2) Hadley 29" Air Horns, Inverter, MBRP 4" turbo back w/ 5" angle tip, EDGE Juice/Platinum Attitude Mods: BCP 2007 Holiday Rambler Next Level 37CK 5th Wheel Toy Hauler
3 dogs & 2 birds (Yes, they all travel with us)
There is more clearance because thd bed we install is a 9' bed as opposed to the 8' bed used in a pick-up body. So a hauler body may be installed on a F350 through a F550 Super Duty Chassis Cab truck. The wheelbase is also 4 inches longer on a Chassis Cab model.
So If I understand your question correctly, there should be no problem with clearance with a hauler body instllation.
Bob Strader
RV & Truck Conversion Consultants, LLC
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Late release Y2K F550, GCRW 30000 lbs., Power Stroke, R4100 transmission, Crew Cab, 2WD,Transfer Flow Aux. fuel tank, Kelderman Air Ride, Power Breaker Exhaust Brake, US Gear Auxiliary Overdrive,Derale remote mounted transmision cooler, Pyro. and Trans. Temp gauges, Hauler Bed, Trailer Saver Air Suspension Hitch.
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