I need the instructions to install if anyone has them and can scan them and send them to me. I bought one used, and the brackets off ebay and have about 2 weeks before we leave on vacation. Going to try to make it to the Grand Canyon and Yellowstone.
You didn't state which hitch that you were going to install but here's a site Reese.
Click on "SUPPORT" and then "INSTRUCTIONS". Select the PDF for your hitch and right click the link to save it to your computer or you can print them out.
Capt Ron
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May 2003 F-350, CC, DRW, 6.0L, 6sp man, LB, Al Wheels, Moon Roof, 52gal tranfer tank. Hitches: Draw-Tite 16K 4X and B&W GN, 8040lbs GVW. Towing 35' Newmar Kountry Star 5th Wheel Camper, 14,000lbs GVW, or Wells Cargo 24' Car Hauler, 12,000lbs GVW.
Thanks CAPTRON
It's the Classic 20,000 pn. 30033, I found the website you gave me, Thanks, my aol don't want to open it. We just changed to Verizon high speed but AOL thinks it still owns this computor and wants to do everything and I already unhooked my dialup line. I'll probably have to uninstall AOL so I can get MSN to open the file.
These are the brackets I bought. Click here They are suppose to be here tomorrow. I will probably remove the bed and remove my gooseneck hitch before I try installing them.
It's a 0.46MB PDF file. Too big for the e-mail software at TheDieselStop, so I sent it using HotMail. If you have a firewall or junkmail filter, tell it that you're looking for a big file from smokeywren@hotmail.com
Here's more hints:
Before you mark where to drill holes in the bed, draw a line across the bed exactly over the center of the rear axle. Maybe use a carpenter's level and mark the top of the bed above the center of the hub - on both sides. Then mark both sides of the floor of the bed where the axle center will be. Then use a chalkline to snap a line across the bed.
Then assemble the 5er hitch legs/frame (not including that heavy head unit) on the uninstalled bedrails, and put the whole shootin' match in the bed. Determine where the rear bedrail will be per the Reese instructions. The front bedrail will wind up wherever it has to be when mounted to the hitch frame.
Locate the bed rails about where you think they should go, then add the head unit (don't pin it in - just lay it where it goes for a few minutes). Site down through the hitch and be sure that the center of the kingpin will be at least a couple of inches in front of the centerline of the rear axle. (Reese says 4" but mine is closer to 2".)
After you have the bedrails located exactly where they should go, then look under the bed about where the holes will be drilled and be sure there's not something important in the way. Then mark one of the holes and drill one itty bitty hole in the bed. Then stick a wire coat hanger or similar wire through the hole. Then crawl under the truck and be certain that with the hole drilled there the "L" bracket will bolt up to both the bed and the frame (after you later drill the hole in the frame}. Then do the same step with each of the other 7 holes in the bed. Only after you're certain that all 8 itty bitty holes are drilled in the right place in the bed, then drill out the holes in the front bedrail only to the size required to put the bedrail bolts through those holes.
"Finger" tighten the 4 bolts in the front bedrails. Then be sure the holes for the rear bedrail bolts are still centered in the bedrail holes. If not, mark exactly where the bigger rear holes should be drilled. Then get rid of the bedrails and drill the holes.
After all 8 holes are drilled in the bed, then put in the 8 bolts with the bedrails in the bed and the "L" brackets under the bed. Don't tighten the nuts more than finger tight. Then use the L brackets to mark all the holes you will drill in the frame.
Be certain the drillbits you use to drill in the frame are very sharp. Either have a handful of new bits, or else have a bit sharpener handy, such as Drill-Doctor.
Thank You so much Smokey for the tips on installing the rails. Probably will keep me from drilling a great big hole in the bed that I don't need. I'll probably do it later on this week after I get the septic tank redone.
Again thanks a million!
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Y2K/F250 4X4 7.3 diesel, Extracab, longbed, Build Date 7/2000 Automatic, 350 Badges, DP Tuner 40, 80, 100, 120, High Idle,Overboost control valve, Firestone AirBags, Tuff Country Add-A-Leaf, SS Wheel Trim, Pushbar, Running Lights, Cablights, 700W/Invertor, Gooseneck Hitch, Towing Package, LS/373's,265-16 Michelins AT's, Rancho 9000's, Rancho SS, 4 inch exhaust turbo back, AFE Type Air Filter, President HR2510W/250TexasStar, AutoMeterGauges(Pyro,Trans,Boost,Oil Pressure,Amps.) Electronic exhaust brake with torque lock,transmission shift kit.
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