Hi all,
Recently I purchased an older 2 horse trailer. Like many trailers I've seen, the safety chains are well below par in my opinion. Flimsy little chain welded onto the tongue, doesn't look like it'll hold anything if some other part of the hitch fails.
I am definitely going to put some substantial chains on it. I'll probably go to Lowes and buy some heavy chain and heavy snaps. My question is on how to attach it to the trailer. My initial though is to weld it, but then I was thinking to just bolt with the highest grade bolt I can find, quick and easy. Part of the problem is I only have about 1" of metal to weld to, that doesn't seem like a lot. I'd definitely buy weld links designed to handle the heat. I'm also not that great of a welder, and the overhead position would be difficult.
Any thoughts?
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Looking for a clean IDI manual 4x4 to convert to vegetable oil. Or maybe a cummins if I can afford it.
Dads truck - 1997 F-350 CC 4x4 5 spd. manual. Stock except for the vegistroke fuel system, over 75k on WVO. 215k on the truck.
If you have an A frame type tongue - take one long piece of chain and thread it inside the frame, around the tongue jack and back out. You can run a bolt, with washers, thru the chain behind the jack post, to secure the chain. Add a couple of HD spring clips of appropriate rating and your good to go.
On edit, I looked back for a refresher on memory, from the book:
"Safety chains must be attached to either side of the tongue or connecting apparatus of the towed vehicle, equidistant forward and aft of the hitch or connector. They shall not be directly welded to the towed vehicle, but rather shall be connected by means of bolts, pins, or other secure connecting methods, that meet necessary strength requirements."
I would not rely on bolts for heavier applications. Most manufacturers utilize this as a connection.
It is a welded connection, just not the actual links of the chain.
Our regulations here call for two chains hooked up crossed. I have added some chains to a few farm trailers we have and went to look at a few new trailers to see how they were doing it. Most seemed to weld a piece of flat bar like 1/2 by 2 inch on each side of the tongue to make a tab that hangs below then bolt the chain to this tab.
If you don’t have a lot of confidence in your welding ability, why risk it; anyway you’d just have to paint that area! What about an eyebolt drill and tap threads through the A-frame and a jam nut on the backside with a mechanical chain splice link of your choice.
If you have your heart set on welding the chain, I suggest using 312 stainless steel welding rod. I’ve made numerous endless chains for rigging, always had the best luck with 312, or even 310 stainless.
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Why Chyrel? To quote the late great Johnny Cash!
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2007 Dodge 3500, 4X4 Quad cab SLT, with 6.7L Cummins / 6-speed Aisin, 4:10 gears, and 9 1/2-foot Aluma flatbed.
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Ok, thanks for the replies. I now feel better about bolting them on. This isn't a real heavy application, I'll make sure to get some properly rated bolts.
__________________
Looking for a clean IDI manual 4x4 to convert to vegetable oil. Or maybe a cummins if I can afford it.
Dads truck - 1997 F-350 CC 4x4 5 spd. manual. Stock except for the vegistroke fuel system, over 75k on WVO. 215k on the truck.
Find some 3/8" Grade 70 chain. Two 1/2" grade 8 NF bolts with two flat washers , lock washer and two flat washer will stand off the next chain to swivel with several flat washers or they do make square washers for heavier applacations. National fine will give you more thread contact so holds better. I use 272 locktite as well for this application, but not nessecary. To attach to the truck two red shackles. Welding the chain changes the properties of the metal and may create spots for cracks although and 8018 , 11018 rod might work?
Last edited by Airforce : 03-27-2008 at 10:48 AM.
Reason: more info
On edit, I looked back for a refresher on memory, from the book:
"Safety chains must be attached to either side of the tongue or connecting apparatus of the towed vehicle, equidistant forward and aft of the hitch or connector. They shall not be directly welded to the towed vehicle, but rather shall be connected by means of bolts, pins, or other secure connecting methods, that meet necessary strength requirements."
I would not rely on bolts for heavier applications. Most manufacturers utilize this as a connection.
It is a welded connection, just not the actual links of the chain.
Hey, that's different, using round stock for the chain stowage.
Usually I see channel or angle there. While it is easier taking loose, in that you don't have to compress the clip, it constantly scratches the paint off. I could see the round stock holding paint better.
I can’t take the credit for that! It was a buddy of mine here on this forum, T_Bone. I ended up having my gooseneck adapter sprayed with Line-X, lots of coverage with that stuff, .090-inch thick
Drags them off as in wears them off by dragging on the road, when they don't get hooked. You're talking about why you bolt the Jack on, not the chains!
2005 Chev Duramax/Allison 3500LS DRW Crew Cab
2006 Chev 6.0L/4L80e 3500WT DRW Ex-Cab 9'Flat-GN
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What about an eyebolt drill and tap threads through the A-frame and a jam nut on the backside with a mechanical chain splice link of your choice.
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