Maybe you had some tires put on back when you owned it and possibly they could be traced back to you? Or maybe the axles have serial numbers on them and they could be traced to the original builder? Did you buy the trailer new? Just shooting in the dark here....
Hope it all works out for you. I always stamp my drivers license number or VIN into almost everything I own, and put it somewhere where it would be a pain in the butt to grind off or otherwise deface.
I did buy it new, don't know about the axles. The dealer that I bought it from has since been sold to someone else so as far as they having records going back almost 9 years is pretty slim.
I am stamping,welding my VIN and drivers license number on all my trailers trailers now, in some hidden places that yo might not think to look for them, just to be on the safe.
__________________
2004 F350 CC LB w/ 5.5" Fabtech lift w/ 35x13.5x20 Mickey Thompson ATZ's on Moto Metal 954's
2008 Tahoe 26FS Toyhauler
2007 KTM 525 XC
2004 KTM 65 SX (son's ride)
2004 F250 5.4 w/ 8' utility bed
2008 F350 5.4 SRW chassis w/9' Royal utility bed
WHY are you welding on your Driver's License number?
Anyone who is dishonest enough to steal your trailer, is probably dishonest enough to steal your identity. Palm Springs is very close to Mexican American border, where illegal entrants and their transporters value valid personal identity numbers to use for fraudulent purposes.
You could weld "rumplestilskin" on an unseen part of the trailer, or better yet, weld an inoccuous series of dots and dashes, like Morse Code, that will likely be left alone and never ground off because it looks like artifacts of the manufacturing process.
I wouldn't weld on the axles or the frame area near where the axles mount. I also wouldn't weld on the top or bottom of the frame, nor it's flanges, as these are the areas of highest compressive and tensile stress that could be undermined by the heat affected zone of the weld. Somewhere in the neutral web of the frame, or in the middle of crossmember or outrigger, would be my choice.
Take a photograph of your heiroglyph, print it in case your harddrive crashes so you don't lose the data, put it in the file with your pink slip.
Measure the distance of your marking to triangulating reference points not likely to be altered, like the sides, front, and rear of the trailer.
The non-sensical geometric or dot and dash marking, the dated/timestamped photograph of the same, and the specific measurements of the marking's location, should be ample and unequivocal evidence of your having once had possession of your trailer, without giving up your driver's license number to a thief.
WHY are you welding on your Driver's License number?
Mainly because if you check, you'll find that most all police depts recommend that you use it on most everything that thieves usually steal---from TV's to trailers. It gives the cops a direct and easy link right back to the owner when they recover stolen property.
WHY are you welding on your Driver's License number?
Anyone who is dishonest enough to steal your trailer, is probably dishonest enough to steal your identity. Palm Springs is very close to Mexican American border, where illegal entrants and their transporters value valid personal identity numbers to use for fraudulent purposes.
You could weld "rumplestilskin" on an unseen part of the trailer, or better yet, weld an inoccuous series of dots and dashes, like Morse Code, that will likely be left alone and never ground off because it looks like artifacts of the manufacturing process.
I wouldn't weld on the axles or the frame area near where the axles mount. I also wouldn't weld on the top or bottom of the frame, nor it's flanges, as these are the areas of highest compressive and tensile stress that could be undermined by the heat affected zone of the weld. Somewhere in the neutral web of the frame, or in the middle of crossmember or outrigger, would be my choice.
Take a photograph of your heiroglyph, print it in case your harddrive crashes so you don't lose the data, put it in the file with your pink slip.
Measure the distance of your marking to triangulating reference points not likely to be altered, like the sides, front, and rear of the trailer.
The non-sensical geometric or dot and dash marking, the dated/timestamped photograph of the same, and the specific measurements of the marking's location, should be ample and unequivocal evidence of your having once had possession of your trailer, without giving up your driver's license number to a thief.
I have not welded my DL# on my current trailers yet, I am a little hesitant to do it. I have friend who investigates identity theft and will ask how safe it is to have it on a trailer or other equipment that can be stolen.
I like the idea of the non-sensical dot or dash marking, I have since put the VIN on 4 different places. I have also bought a stamping kit that you use with a hammer to imprint any combination of letters or numbers and have put different things in a few spots as well.
__________________
2004 F350 CC LB w/ 5.5" Fabtech lift w/ 35x13.5x20 Mickey Thompson ATZ's on Moto Metal 954's
2008 Tahoe 26FS Toyhauler
2007 KTM 525 XC
2004 KTM 65 SX (son's ride)
2004 F250 5.4 w/ 8' utility bed
2008 F350 5.4 SRW chassis w/9' Royal utility bed
Up until a few years ago your ss# was your dl# in Mississippi. If you registered a trailer as homebuilt then your dl#/ss# became the serial number for your trailer. If you registered more than one then you added a letter to the number. Now they don't use your ss# as your dl# anymore, but they do still use your dl# as serial numbers. You must stamp it onto the trailer.
Acid can bring a ground off serial number to the surface. Something to do with the stamp making the metal more dense or something and the acid works on the softer metal. Should be the same for a weld.
Yes the serial number can be recovered with the use of acid but it has to be done by a trailed detective or investigator. Once the number is stamped into the steel it actually lines up the molecules of the steel in that order. Even if you grind it off of the surface the acid will bring it up to the surface. However, once it brings it up to the surface it has to be photographed since it is only for a brief period and the acid will do more damage. You may want to contact this web site NICB Description
which works with the National Auto Theft Bureau for some help.
Your local or state police department should have an expert that can help you out. Good luck.
DRDON
__________________
2008 F350 Lariat CC PSD 2WD Auto. 172" Dark Blue Pearl Clearcoat Metallic/Pueblo Gold 5"Chrome CabSteps Camper Pkg. HD Alt. Tow Command Upfitter Switches, 25K Air Safe Hitch, Retrax Cover, Ride Rites, ATTA Auxiliary Tank, WOLO 120 db air horn, and more.
2007 Ameri-Camp Summit Ridge Reserve 40' 5th wheel trailer, 3/Slides, chrome wheels, Mor-ryde suspension, dual A/C, theatre system, solid surface counter tops, king bed, power jacks front/rear, 50 AMP service, sealed underside, heated tanks and more. MY PICTURES: http://good-times.webshots.com/album/558384049kmtqSi
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