Well, I'm trying to remove my gooseneck ball to put one a little taller on there ( the one on it is really a bumper pull ball and it's so short, there are marks on the bed around it from the goseneck hitch hitting , I want to put the ball with the 1" riser on).
Anyways, I've soaked it everyday for about 5 days with Aero Kroil, and went after it today with my half inch impact. I think I could hear it laughing.
So I put my 3/4 drive breaker bar on it along with a 4' length of pipe ( that's as long as I can use without hitting the cab) I gave it all my worn out ol' body could do and it wasn't budging.
Any ideas on getting that thing off short of taking it to the local big truck shop where they can go after it with a 1" impact ( or finding some gorilla with beer barrel sized arms [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
Thanks-----------Robert
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'92 F-350 7.3 5 spd, Crew Cab dually,ATS turbo, 4" Exhaust, Air seat, Western Hauler bed. My Gallery
I didn't see or feel any welds on it.
unfortunately the only welding equipment I have laying around these days is MIG, no torch aside from a little MAPP gas job.
I tried getting a pipe wrench on it from the top , but having a time getting a grab with all rounded surfaces, the bottom flange is only about 1/4" high and it's sunk below the upper deck surface about 1/8"
I don't want to shred the ball surface in case it won't budge.
----Robert
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'92 F-350 7.3 5 spd, Crew Cab dually,ATS turbo, 4" Exhaust, Air seat, Western Hauler bed. My Gallery
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I put the pipe wrench on the neck of the ball(the trailer doesn't hit it there.
[/ QUOTE ]If you do it this way and point the handle of the pipe wrench out the back of the truck you can put a real nice cheater pipe on it to really get some leverage.
Jim
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96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages,Dark Toumaline, add a leaf,Dale's TYMAR,and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter with coolant eye
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I put the pipe wrench on the neck of the ball(the trailer doesn't hit it there.
[/ QUOTE ]If you do it this way and point the handle of the pipe wrench out the back of the truck you can put a real nice cheater pipe on it to really get some leverage.
Jim
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Well, I just tried that, big honkin' pipe wrench and a 7 foot long cheater bar....nothing! I did manage to chew the bottom of tha ball just a little, but that turkey didn't budge. I imagine if I had a litle more room to throw the cheater bar it might dig in a little better and maybe do something, but I have one of those Western Hauler beds and the ball is in about a 2 ft wide channel in the flatbed ( you can see it if you click on my gallery, the picture on the right )so there isn't much room to manuver there.
---------Robert
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'92 F-350 7.3 5 spd, Crew Cab dually,ATS turbo, 4" Exhaust, Air seat, Western Hauler bed. My Gallery
Get your little MAP gas torch and put as much heat on the nut as you can, this should make the nut expand at least a little. - But a little can make all the difference in the world.
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2000 F-250 supercab off-road 4x4 6-spd Diablo Sport chip, autometer boost & pyro, DIY Tymar, straight pipe dumping before the wheel
2006 F350 CC LWB Dually XLT Oxford white manual 4x4 6.0 PSD 6 speed. 4.10 LS front and rear, Built May05. 4" turbo back, 100gal aux fuel tank. A real pig from a stop, but give me 10' and she'll lite'em up.
Well... Tried the heat and put 11 ft length of pipe on the end of the pipe wrench. With about ten minutes of grunting I managed to get a few ginks out of it. Altogether it moved about a half a turn and I'm pretty sure I was spinning the whole thing. At least it broke free enough to where the Aero Kroil is soaking down in around it quickly. I figure I'll let it soak some more and get a socket on the nut and brace it underneath and try the pipe again and see if the nut will decide to cut loose.
---------Robert
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'92 F-350 7.3 5 spd, Crew Cab dually,ATS turbo, 4" Exhaust, Air seat, Western Hauler bed. My Gallery
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
I had a stuck ball on a reciever hitch at work. I didn't have a pipe, just a 24" cresent wrench. I couldn't budge the nut so out came the forklift. Needless to say, the wrench blew apart and the nut didn't budge. I took it to the bus shop across the street and they smoke wrenched the nut off. You might have to take the truck to a shop and cut it off.
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85' F250XL Reg. Cab. 6.9L, C-6, 105K, Stock, 3.55 gears
Planning on new headgaskets, rear main, rust repair and complete paint job, and a hypermax turbo this winter. Want to start in Dec. (Lots of Q's)
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I had a stuck ball on a reciever hitch at work. I didn't have a pipe, just a 24" cresent wrench. I couldn't budge the nut so out came the forklift. Needless to say, the wrench blew apart and the nut didn't budge. I took it to the bus shop across the street and they smoke wrenched the nut off. You might have to take the truck to a shop and cut it off.
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That thing isn't going anywhere. It's off to the weld shop next week to get torched off. Luckily I have a friend with a weld shop who still does $5 and $10 quick weld/cut jobs. I'm so sore from cranking on that thing it isn't funny. Next one is going on with antiseize compound [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
------Robert
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'92 F-350 7.3 5 spd, Crew Cab dually,ATS turbo, 4" Exhaust, Air seat, Western Hauler bed. My Gallery
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