Recently my fire department aquired a large trailer mounted diesel generator (unsure what KW). The generator/trailer weighs approximately 6K lbs.
The trailer came equipped with surge brakes. Is there anyway to disable the surge brakes when backing the trailer? Also, is there a way to convert the surge brakes to work with the Ford trailer brake controller?
As always, I thank you all for your expertise and help.
Be safe!
Marc
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2005 F-250 Supercab 4x4 Lariat long bed 6 speed, Vegistroke V3 WVO system, integrated brake controller, upfitter switches, TTM, South Texas Outfitters custom front end replacement, Whelen Liberty LED lightbar, Whelen Dominator LED front bar, hidden front strobes, rear LED's and strobes, Rhino liner, Whelen 200 watt siren, Havis Consolidator console, and other hidden goodies. Pictures are in "Shoebox" album. http://community.webshots.com/user/vtfireftr
Recently my fire department aquired a large trailer mounted diesel generator (unsure what KW). The generator/trailer weighs approximately 6K lbs.
The trailer came equipped with surge brakes. Is there anyway to disable the surge brakes when backing the trailer? Also, is there a way to convert the surge brakes to work with the Ford trailer brake controller
Marc
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Except for backing up (until you figure out over-ride) what is wrong with surge brakes? They don't allow them on new manufacture but I have one trailer with them and love it.
OK depending on type. Some have a lever on top with chain as a breakaway brake activation. There is a place from bottom where you can put a U channel to block piston. (depending on type)
As far as changing it. I would (think but have never worked with this) that you would need a electric over hyd activator.
Couple questions. First how often and how far do you plan to move it? (if short distance twice a yr I would hook to a tractor or pickup and go slow) Or consider replacing axles with ones with electronic brake controler.
I too am a fan of surge brakes. They are simple in design, work behind any truck, and are reliable with modest monitoring. You can get "free backing" surge brakes brake shoe plates, which allow you to back without engaging the shoes. (BTW, when it's time to replace shoes, just buy new backing plates; your life will be so much easier and the price is similar). Down side is you have no brakes in reverse, but usually the speed is slow enough the truck brakes are more than enough. Some slide a pin through the actuator, but that requires getting out of the cab and manually doing so.
I worked for a large landscape company for many years and one of our older trailers had surges brakes on it.
We kept a large c-clamp on the trailer and clamped it down just in front of the trailer surge when we need to move it around the lot. Worked like a charm!
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F550, 4x4, Diesel, 165"wb, Diamond Plate I-pack tool box, 10' Scott dump body
I had a surge brake trailer and it had lock-off pin hung on a cable that you inserted into a hole in the surge brake assembly on trailer coupler.
I rarely used as I caould back on level ground with little if any brake apply happening. If I backed up a grade with orses in the trailer I used the pin.
I had a manual trans truck and I had to take it easy getting moving backwards, it was no problem when the trailer was backed by a vehicle with an auto trans.
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2006 F450 CC Hauler bed 4x2 6.0 L Pstroke/Torqshift, Lariat, 4.88 r/a.
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Except for backing up (until you figure out over-ride) what is wrong with surge brakes? ...
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Surge brakes cease to be effective once you start jackknifing, which is one time when you really, really need control of your trailer brakes. Trailer brakes could also be awfully handy when backing a heavy load down a steep hill.
[edited to clarify: control of your brakes]
edited to add:
No matter what your override method is, you'll want to figure out some way to assure that you can't drive away with the brakes still disabled. I assume that a factory-designed override will release when you tug hard on the drawbar, but with an Appalachian Engineerin' method - a C-clamp, a valve - you can drive away with no brakes at all.
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Douglas Campbell [drcampbell ot engineer dat kahm]
November 5, 2008: The fat lady sang. Back to actually working for a living.
1986 Isuzu P'up, 177,673.8 miles. Hella headlights, (highly recommended) DOT C-2 back end. (also recommended) R-12 air conditioner converted to R-406a. 4.1:1 rear axle converted to 3.4:1.
9/22/2007, age 21: Still running well when reluctantly sent away for reincarnation, due to body & frame rust.
Depends on why you are jacknifing. If it is beckause the trailer wheels are locked and sliding then it is to your advantage to have them start rolling again, otherwise the jacknife will continue.
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Surge brakes cease to be effective once you start jackknifing, which is one time when you really, really need brakes.
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I have driven several trailers with both surge brakes and electric brakes, and even found one rental with surge brakes on one axle and electric on the second axle. I agree not being able to activate the brakes in an emergency situation (sudden sway or jacknife) is a definite disadvantage.
Dave / Believer45
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'95 F250 ext cab long bed, PSD, 5 speed manual, two wheel drive, 3.55 gears, LUK clutch conversion, 450 lb homemade REAR BUMPER, homemade open element AIR FILTER, aluminum bed cap. With me in the cab (285#) and full of fuel weighs 6,580 lbs (steer 3420 drive 3160)
A mechanic at where I worked installed a small valve in the brake line, so when he needed to back UP a hill, he would close the valve and prevent the fluid from getting to the brakes, therefore disabling the brakes. Seems like an easy solution. I am thinking of trying it on my boat trailer come spring.
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1997 F350 CC DRW 4X4, Black. Centaurus2 conversion. Banks IC & powdercoated tubes. Stage 2's by Full Force Performance,BDP Dom 66, BDP Fuel system , TS 6 pos chip with Bills & T Wildmans burns, AFE intake, 4" exhaust. Gear Vendor Overdrive. E4OD with Suncoast Pro-Loc TC, 4.10 gears. Sky's RSK, Kelderman air ride, Bilsteins, 40 gal Transfer Flow. Alcoa's. Pioneer stereo, full floor and overhead console.
I just rebuilt my boat trailer, and had the actuator replaced. Also put in an electronic solenoid that locks out the brakes when you put the truck in reverse. It is set up on a flat 5 pin connector, and all I did was tie a wire into the reverse lights. Works great. This is pretty standard nowadays, so you should be able to do it very simply.
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1996 F250 4x4 ext. cab, long bed 5 spd. 3.55ls, Tymar Intake, Tymar 4" downpipe and 4" exhaust. AIC, B&W turnoverball, EBPV brake, tranny temp gauge, boost gauge, and egt gauge. 235k miles and thousands of $$$$ in maintenance and repairs.
There is no way to tell how often the trailer will be used. We use it to light up the night when the need arises. Usually drawn out scenes of accidents and last week at the scene of a small plane crash - that's why I asked. I used my F 250 to get the trailer close to the scene, and back to "the barn". My truck pulls and stops the trailer with no problems. It's just a pain to back the trailer up uneven grades, and the transition to garage where the trailer is kept. My rear tires have a tendency to lose traction on the concrete pad, as my front tires are trying to get past the 2" step up from gravel to the concrete. I don't use 4 wheel drive, because it's a tight turn backing into the garage, and my front end will hop with the hubs locked.
I've advised my chief to not let anyone with less than a 3/4 ton truck pull the trailer, but we never know who is around when we need the trailer.
Thanks again for your help.
Marc
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2005 F-250 Supercab 4x4 Lariat long bed 6 speed, Vegistroke V3 WVO system, integrated brake controller, upfitter switches, TTM, South Texas Outfitters custom front end replacement, Whelen Liberty LED lightbar, Whelen Dominator LED front bar, hidden front strobes, rear LED's and strobes, Rhino liner, Whelen 200 watt siren, Havis Consolidator console, and other hidden goodies. Pictures are in "Shoebox" album. http://community.webshots.com/user/vtfireftr
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