TAG (Bumperpull) or Gooseneck Cross Country - Diesel Forum

kideral · 07-06-2009, 06:38 AM

I am looking to buy a 12,000 pound 24' tag (bumper) or a 14,000 pound 32' gooseneck to be towed by my 2005 Ford F350 PSD Longbed SRW Harley Davidson Edition (11,000 GVWR, 23,500 GCWR, 7800 fueled).

I have to move 20,000 pounds of wine in several trips across country.
(200 cases at a time)

The Tag would be more flexible, as I could put a leer cap on the back and I could move it around with my jeep.

The Gooseneck would tow more comfortably.

Is it clear cut that a gooseneck tows that much better than a Tag?
What are the different types of anti sway for the TAG?? Do they really cost $3,000??

Thanks

NickKent · 07-06-2009, 06:58 AM

I think I would just hire a shipping company to move your wine in a controlled environment. If you are getting this trailer primarily for moving wine across the country and driving on the highway I would get the gooseneck. Yes, they do tow that much better. I would also get a trailer with torsion axles not spring axles. Smoother ride for precious cargo.

LMJD · 07-06-2009, 07:54 AM

Quote:

Is it clear cut that a gooseneck tows that much better than a Tag?

Yessir. Other than the load and weight, you can't tell a gooseneck's behind you. Never any sway, fishtailing, etc. I've got 3 of them, a travel trailer, a flatbed, and a 3 horse slant load. What few RV wrecks I've been unfortunate to come across traveling across the north western states have always been a bumper pull. Plus since you want to be in the 12,000 lb. range, I'd definitely get a gooseneck. Assuming you want a flatbed, the one in my Webshot pics is a 14,000lb. PJ and I've been real happy with it. For the price, I figured it would be real basic, but it came with a lot of extras, dual landing gear, step and grab handle, chain box, radial tires and other goodies.

Quote:

I would also get a trailer with torsion axles

Nick's right, I have the torsion axle on my horse trailer and besides a good ride it's maintanance free.

kideral · 07-06-2009, 08:25 AM

I looked into shipping it. They want $12,000 plus insurance.
I have figured out how to handle the cooling.
I know how moving companies work. They do not have the care that I have.
If I move something, nothing breaks. If they move something, something always breaks.

After I move the wine, I will convert it into a toy hauler.

kideral · 07-06-2009, 08:28 AM

Thanks for the comments that's good information.
I think I am leaning towards the 32 foot gooseneck.

Its interesting that some trailer companies include the pin weight in GVWR and others do not.

12,000 on the axles and 2500 on the gooseneck ball makes 14,500 GVWR on 12,000 total GAWR axles. Some still call it a 12,000 GVWR trailer.

harleycb · 07-06-2009, 11:41 AM

I contract with several trucking companies to move pipe across the country - almost everyone will charge $2.00/mile, but if you go through a brokerage, you might be able to find as low as $1.50/mile one way. Much cheaper than buying a trailer and moving it yourself....

Just my $0.02.

**SmokeyWren** · 07-06-2009, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kideral

Is it clear cut that a gooseneck tows that much better than a Tag?

Depends on the hitch. With a normal weight-distributing hitch with sway control as your tag hitch, then yes, the gooseneck tows much, much better.

But if you pay the big bucks for a Hensley Arrow hitch, then the tag will tow just as good as any gooseneck (or fifth wheel).

Quote:

What are the different types of anti sway for the TAG?? Do they really cost $3,000??

There are two basic types of weight-distributing hitches combined with sway control. The most common (and least expensive) is the Drawtite/Reese/Hidden Hitch type. I bought one a coupla months ago for my tag cargo trailer and it cost me about $500 for the trunion bar weight distribution and the dual cam sway control for an 800 pound hitch weight.

The other type is the Hensley Arrow design. Completely different, and much more expensive. That's the one you heard cost $3,000. It's worth it for heavy haulers. I don't have one because my three tag trailers are much lighter duty.

Within the less-expensive types, there are a coupla different ways they work. For the weight-distribution part, there are spring bars and trunion bars. Not much difference. for the sway control, there is the dual cam and the friction type. They look different but they do the same job of making it harder for the trailer to go into a drastic sway condition.

carringb · 07-06-2009, 11:01 PM

If you want to convert it to a toy hauler later, I'd order your cargo trailer with the kitchen and bathroom already installed. It will be much easier than retrofitting later. And for long drives, the kitchen could end up saving you some bucks after a while.

Forest River sells the work and play series, and other like Haulmark have those as options.

I wouldn't be scared of a tag trailer. That's all I tow, and it is not tiring one bit. I have not any any sway or instability problems. I'm not even using hitch weight distribution hitch (trailer GVWs ~8-10,000 pounds).

Proper loading does more to prevent sway than any hitch.

You should not try towing a 12,000 GVWR trailer with a Jeep. Nothing good can come from that.

kideral · 07-07-2009, 06:03 AM

Sorry, I wasn't clear on the Jeep. I meant the I could move it around the yard, empty.

I am fairly handy and want to do the retrofit myself. Being a boater, I can pick and choose the exact things I want: Vacuflush toilet, etc. One thing I can see is that I want the tanks over the axles in order to balance the load.

Thanks for all the good advice.

One last question, the sides of my pickup bed are 60 inches off the ground. Is 8 inches enough room to handle changes in grade? I am going to have the trailer over the gooseneck be 68 - 70 inches above the ground. I did some theoretical calcs and it seems ok but I don't know in practice if this works. I can always lift it, but I want the trailer to run flat and level...

LMJD · 07-07-2009, 09:13 AM

8" would be great, most agree 6" is the minimum. But make sure you have that amount of clearance before you buy the trailer, they vary from brand to brand. After I bought my horse trailer I found (too late) I only have 5" or less and I have to really watch it going over steep little rises like irrigation canal banks, etc.

BlueMuleTrucking · 07-07-2009, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LMJD

8" would be great, most agree 6" is the minimum. But make sure you have that amount of clearance before you buy the trailer, they vary from brand to brand. After I bought my horse trailer I found (too late) I only have 5" or less and I have to really watch it going over steep little rises like irrigation canal banks, etc.

I skimmed threw your pictures, that's some pretty bay horse you got.

LMJD · 07-07-2009, 02:32 PM

Thank you, my friend. He's Two Eyed Jack, Zan Parr Bar on the top side and old Quarter Horse foundation breeding on the bottom. He's 12 this year, got him as a 3 year old from our local brand inspector.

Back on topic, my gooseneck tube is adjustable and I could get more bed clearance but then my trailer would be way beyond level. What ticked me off is a friend also bought a V-nose gooseneck (different brand) at about the same time and he's got about 12" clearance---better design than my Charmac.

kideral · 07-08-2009, 12:11 AM

I would have liked to raise the level of the overall trailer, but they are proposing raising the level of the floor over the gooseneck. This reduces the ceiling height over the gooseneck.

Given the design constraints on a gooseneck, I am glad I didn't go head first into a used one. Most short bed goosenecks won't fit my long bed. I'd never get the gate open or its not long enough in the gooseneck and would hit the back of my pickup. I'd have to get a gooseneck extender.